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Looking For Detailed Step By Step TORS Removal Instructions


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Hey Everyone,

 

I know this is really easy for many of you and I apologize in advance but I got the TORS removal kit complete with the idle adjustment screws/taps. I got a bad feeling Im going to eff up my carbs once I start drilling into them. Is there a DETAILED step by step (including pictures) thread on installing the TORS kit?

 

Thanks!

 

T

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#1. Locate the black box under the fuel tank.

#2. Disconect the black box and remove it.

#3. Place black box on a hard firm surface and strike multiple times with a hammer.

#4. Disconect the wires to the carb tops.

#5. Disconect the wire that goes to the thumb throttle.

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Hey tmecars,

 

Get a Clymers manual for yourself. Pics and step by step are great. Can follow the instructions in there to remove the TORS box and the TORS switches that sit on the carbs.

 

If you're leaving the TORS switches on the carbs, you can adjust he idle via the throttle cable up on the handle bars. Cap off the wires as described in the link above in this thread.

 

It sounds like you just bought yourself a TORS elim Kit and are worried about installing the Idle adjustment screws that come with it? the Clymers manual won't tell you how to do this.

 

You'll have to disassemble the carbs completely - follow the Clymer's manual.

There's a "post" located on the outside of each carb that looks like a screw should go in it but there aren't any threads. This is where you'll drill with the bit that came with the TORS Elim kit. Look down the top of the carb (where the TORS switches used to be) confirm that the post you're going to drill aligns with the center of the round-slide hole you're looking down).

 

The post has a "pilot hole" of sorts, spray it with WD40 to lube the drill bit while drilling and use it liberally for tapping as well (you really should use a drill press for this but I've seen someone on here said they did it with a hand drill. If you've never done this, find a friend you trust or a machine shop to help you. CAREFULLY cut the burr from the inside of each round-slide hole with a good sharp pocket knife feel with your finger to make sure you got all of the burr but don't scrape the smooth sides of the round-slide hole.

 

Clean the carbs really well and reassemble the carbs as instructed in the Clymer's manual and install the new idle screws that came with the kit leaving them well back so they don't interfere with the slides yet.

 

Put the carbs back on the engine but leave the air box boots off. Install your new carb tops onto the carbs (with slides and new throttle cable). Adjust the cables at the carb tops so the slides JUST bottom out exactly equally by looking down the throats of the carbs and working the throttle. Adjust for free play at the handlebars (Clymer's).

 

Check that the slides are synchronized (Clymer's) with the throttle WIDE OPEN using the windows on the carbs - they should be fine. Again looking down the throat of the carbs, turn an idle screw until you just see the slider move. repeat for the other side then turn each idle screw in 1 turn and tighten the lock nuts finger tight. MAKE SURE the rubber boots on the throttle cables at the tops of the carbs are pulled down over the adjuster screws so you don't get air leaks.

 

Put your filter box and filter back on and start your engine up - you may need to keep very slight pressure on the throttle to keep it idling. When it warms up, adjust the new idle screws in equal increments until the engine idles smooth and tighten the lock nuts down. You're done.

 

This may sound like a lot but I just did mine and it's not bad, just work slowly and carefully and you'll be fine.

 

If you need, I can take some finished pics tomorrow evening for you.

 

Good luck,

George

Edited by muggzy
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Hey Muggzy

Thanks so much for the instructions. I am going to take a crack at it. If I get in a jam, I know where to come for help!

 

T

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