Frizb99 Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 From what I've gathered, 2002 was the first year for a brake light. Some may thing they are unnecessary, but I need it for street legal and so I don't get rear-ended on the trail again. First you will need to modify your wiring harness or acquire a newer model harness and plug and play. We need to get a power wire to run from the stator, through the switch, terminating at the bulb. My setup has been converted to DC and has a battery, so I just pull from there. Stock setup will need to branch off the yellow(Y) wire coming from the stator. Other places to find this are the blue( wire on the voltage regulator, or the Y/R wire on the switch side of the headlight control harness. If you want the brake light to turn on from either brake, you will need to get a switch for the front and rear brakes. Run this new power wire to both locations, leaving a bit of slack for final length cutting. This will go to lead A. The other switch lead ( will run to the brake light. As you bring the front switched power from lead B towards the rear, you can splice the B lead of the rear brake switch so there is 1 wire running from this point to the brake light. All that's left is to get a rear light with a dual filament bulb. The stocker wont support dual filaments, so get creative here. I went with a LED setup. Once you get the electrical done, its time to mount your switches. There are two options here, stock setup or hydraulic switches. Stock setup is going to be more expensive, but will be more reliable. If you want to go with the hydraulic, get the 10x1.25mm pitch switches, about $20 each on ebay. There are debates on these, so do some research and decide whats best for you. I decided to go stock on the rear since it was only $20 for bracket, switch, spring, and rod, and hydraulic on the front. The only problem with the rear is the brake pedal is missing the eyelet for the switch, but I solved that with some welding; see below. I'm still installing my lights and switches, but I have pictures of progress so far. Stay tuned for updates. If I've missed something or haven't updated, send me a PM. Here is how the rear setup bolts on. Apparently all years have a hole in the brace (hole is used on other side, so Yamaha just used the same part on both sides.) The hanging hook then goes into a eyelet on the back of the brake pedal. This was added in later years; I decided to weld one on instead of buying another pedal. I just put the front switch on, so I still gotta ziptie it to the hydraulic hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 Wow, we take all that crap off, and your putting it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankieSquid Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 Im in the process of putting brake lights on my shee. Good for a trail bike or in your case making the thing street legal. I used a rear harness from a YFZ. Still havent gone through the process of wiring it yet. Good post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frizb99 Posted November 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 Wow, we take all that crap off, and your putting it on. Haha, I know! Well, I've gotten hit twice on trails because the dumbass behind me isn't leaving enough space and not paying attention. Maybe a bright red LED will wake him up! I think the stock brake/tail light is ugly, so I got a aftermarket LED one. Pictures of that when I'm done. Oh yeah, you might have missed the street legal part. We can do it in AZ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frizb99 Posted November 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Ok so I installed the brake pedal tonight, so heres a minor update. When installing the pedal, dont forget to clean and lube the pivot shaft. I found that the springs aren't very difficult to install if you hook them to the pedal and then pull towards the front of the bike and slide onto the shaft. Dont forget to hook in the brake spring too! And a better shot of how it all goes together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert0762 Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 good topic iwas wondering how i could get it done cause I got a buddy who likes to run into people too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcos1992 Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 (edited) On 11/16/2009 at 11:19 PM, Frizb99 said: From what I've gathered, 2002 was the first year for a brake light. Some may thing they are unnecessary, but I need it for street legal and so I don't get rear-ended on the trail again. First you will need to modify your wiring harness or acquire a newer model harness and plug and play. We need to get a power wire to run from the stator, through the switch, terminating at the bulb. My setup has been converted to DC and has a battery, so I just pull from there. Stock setup will need to branch off the yellow(Y) wire coming from the stator. Other places to find this are the blue( wire on the voltage regulator, or the Y/R wire on the switch side of the headlight control harness. If you want the brake light to turn on from either brake, you will need to get a switch for the front and rear brakes. Run this new power wire to both locations, leaving a bit of slack for final length cutting. This will go to lead A. The other switch lead ( will run to the brake light. As you bring the front switched power from lead B towards the rear, you can splice the B lead of the rear brake switch so there is 1 wire running from this point to the brake light. All that's left is to get a rear light with a dual filament bulb. The stocker wont support dual filaments, so get creative here. I went with a LED setup. Once you get the electrical done, its time to mount your switches. There are two options here, stock setup or hydraulic switches. Stock setup is going to be more expensive, but will be more reliable. If you want to go with the hydraulic, get the 10x1.25mm pitch switches, about $20 each on ebay. There are debates on these, so do some research and decide whats best for you. I decided to go stock on the rear since it was only $20 for bracket, switch, spring, and rod, and hydraulic on the front. The only problem with the rear is the brake pedal is missing the eyelet for the switch, but I solved that with some welding; see below. I'm still installing my lights and switches, but I have pictures of progress so far. Stay tuned for updates. If I've missed something or haven't updated, send me a PM. Here is how the rear setup bolts on. Apparently all years have a hole in the brace (hole is used on other side, so Yamaha just used the same part on both sides.) The hanging hook then goes into a eyelet on the back of the brake pedal. This was added in later years; I decided to weld one on instead of buying another pedal. I just put the front switch on, so I still gotta ziptie it to the hydraulic hose. Hey man wanted to see if you can help me putting brake lights on my banshee. What sensors were used and how you went about installing the front brake sensor. Thank you Edited October 3, 2020 by Marcos1992 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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