boonman

Did you by chance mix the carb bowls up? There is a left and right. There is a brass tube which is supposed to be in the bowl which goes on the left (choke knob equipped) carb. If they are backwards, when you pull the choke out, nothing happens because it uses aforementioned brass tube to pick up fuel from the bowl. If its not that, make sure you have spark, make absolutely sure the pilots are clean. It takes a small flathead screwdriver to remove them. Compressed air is also good to use on them once they're out. What is the compression? Usually a problem like this is from neglect. Old fuel and dirt...

Put a grease fitting in the swingarm pivot. Parts can be had by any online retailer, ronnies is one that I remember. Or, check out some of the site sponsors.... while its apart, get a stainless bolt kit, clean the wiring harness up, move the coolant bottle to the front, and replace anything that's worn. Likely every bushing and/or bearing in the machine

I like a lightened flywheel. With a power stroke every 180 degrees, mass isn't needed as much...

K&N filters are good for Grandmas grocery getter, and even then, that's pushing. Run Foam filters, and nothing else.

.020" on the safe side, and if you run fresh 93 octane, you can likely get .030" taken off. Depending on elevation.

Freak, please understand that you are talking about two seperate things here. Running lean, (air:fuel ratio) and detonation. You list running lean as a cause of detonation, and it simply is not. While it can aggravate a detonating engine, it will not cause detonation. Alrthough, and obscure happening while running lean, it will heat the bike up, and perhaps increase slightly the chance of detonation, but the piston will likely melt and smear the exhaust port long before the signs of detonation show up. Now, causes of detonation are what you have written, too much advance, too much compression, both of which are related to not having enough octane to combat these things. They aren't necessarily bad on their own, but with not running the proper fuel, it will cause problems. Now, one other thing that will cause detonation, and not have anything related to octane would be an improper squish. Something that must be checked at engine assembly. Now, running lean will aggravate an already detonating engine, but like said, most likely will not cause detonation on it's own. If you blow a hole in the center of the piston, detonation, melt the exhaust side of the piston, and smear the cylinder wall with aluminum, lean condition. But, at any rate, if the plugs are backing out, you have other issues.

You're still missing the boat here, and not answering the questions so that help may be provided to you. The clutch is designed so that you can stay in gear when you pull the clutch in. I don't think you quite know how to word the problem that you are having, but I think I know what is happening. First of all, clutch engagement/disengagement is like this: Engagement- The clutch lever is out, and if it is in gear and the engine is running, the bike should be moving Disengagement- The clutch lever is pulled in, and with the motor rujning, the bike shouldn't move, unless there are issues I believe you are having problems with the disengagement end of things, in that when you pull the clutch in, the clutch doesn't disengage? If this is the case, you may have assembled the basket wrong, or forgot to put the ball bearing in after you install the disengagement actuator rod. This is what commonly welds itself together when you pull the clutch in going downhill, or coasting, and you don't have enough oil in the tranny. Now, a couple questions for you. Does the clutch lever pull in and out freely? Does it fell like it is actually moving anything? When the clutch cover is off, and you pull the clutch lever, can you see the pressure plate move away from the clutch plates? Also, the screw that you "moved all over the place" has a specific adjustment parameter or all hell will break loose, or weld itself together, as previously mantioned. Did the bike all of the suden do this, or did you put a new clutch in>?

having machined several of these flywheels, I can attest that they are made of crap materials. Steel being the main thing. it machines like garbage. The rivits they use are sub par. There is a reason they are so cheap. using scrap metal for flywheels is not the way to do things.

Bunch of us are going up the weekend of 28-30

Sounds like the crank may be out of phase, or something not timed right. May have to put a degree wheel on it, and measure both cylinders.

Yep, previously I meant to say oil and water! And on the seal, pry it out.