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About CrypticZz

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    HQ Noob
  1. Crazy to think that all these people who were ridin banshees while they were 14, just like me right now, are all 16 years older and still rippin shees.
  2. Well if your carb needle is on the bottom clip then it is definitely too rich for most engine applications. First thing your should do is lean it out by 1 or 2 clips by pulling out both needles and moving the e clip a notch or 2 towards the blunt end of the needle. That should help with both the fouling of plugs and lack of mid range power. You can also adjust your idle via the brass screws on the sides of each carb. Turning in those screws opens up the slides more and raises the idle gap if it's not already open enough. Just make sure you do the same adjustments to both carbs and keep them sy
  3. Well I don’t know much about 4 mils but I would assume your pipes are using a low end rpm pipe meant for trail riding. I have t5 pipes on my bike and the low end responsiveness is bad but in the high rpms the bike takes off and pulls hard. lower end rpm pipes almost always get the launch on people but they don’t really have much top end power which is why they are great trail pipes but suffer when drag racing since the bike doesn’t get much top speed since it doesn’t pull very hard at a higher rpms.
  4. So I got done rebuilding my 2000 banshee and I’ve run into a slight problem. When getting into higher rpm’s like in 3rd gear and up my bike bogs. It has great power if you shift just right in third but going into 4th it just gets to the point where it doesn’t gain any speed from giving it gas and it just goes at a consistent speed with absolutely no gain unless I downshift I to the previous gear powerband, rev the crap out of it, then shift up so it finally gets on the pipe and gets going again. I’m thinking this is the main jet so what size should I get for my bike. The parts are as listed:
  5. So the problem is solved and the bike runs like a champ. Turns out that one of the jets was too small at a 25 so it was a pain in the ass to start and it would bog after revving and while the rpms were coming down. Went up to a 30 and it runs great up until about 4th gear. What happens is I fly through the first 3 gears no problem but when I shift in 4th, the bike bogs unless you downshift back into 3rd, rev the crap out of it, then shift back into 4th with that extra power. Any ideas at all why it might be bogging in 4th gear and up and how to stop that from happening? Another bit of informat
  6. So after firing it up with new coils, plug caps, and plug wires, the the right side does fire but it runs about 10 degrees cooler on both the pipe and cylinder. Is this normal or should I still be concerned?
  7. Any other ideas since it’s not electric and the reeds, carbs, and pipes are all fine?
  8. Well we’ve already checked the carbs and they are perfectly synced then we swapped the plug caps and the side stayed into he right side. The reeds are both fine but the only thing I haven’t checked is the pick-up coil gaps and the wiring to it. The pipes are also fine.
  9. So my 2000 banshee was just rebuilt due to A recent blowup which led to it seizing. In this blowup the right piston had a hole in it and there was aluminum on the top of it. I thought nothing of it and decided to go with an upgrade so I got Athena 68mm cylinders and pistons. The rebuild went fine but after starting it up for the first Time there was little to no spark in the right cylinder. The left cylinder ran fine but the right would only go off every now and then. There was a tors delete and the black box/brain was taken off so I assumed it was another electrical problem. I swapped the Cd
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