Solarmat72

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Hello everybody. The current situation is I replaced the clutch basket” chariot” and springs/ fibers” vitos”. Installed new pancake bearing, and motion pro clutch cable. I thought I adjusted it correctly, however when I went to start the shee it idles fine. I kick it in gear just fine but when I rev up the idle with the clutch released it dosent move at all. It maybe creeps up barley. I was having issues lining up the the actuator arm with the line on the cases. Can somebody point me in the right direction. I heard people don’t even use the markings they go by feel. I screwed the adjuster on the pancake bearing a little bit past snug. Can this be to tight ? I took the basket apart it sits flush against the basket, the plates move freely. There is the correct amount of fibers/ steels. Any thoughts? The actuator arm will barley line up if I almost loosen the pancake bearing out of the adjuster. Is it possible that my actual actuator arm is not seating correctly? Is it possible to actually remove the arm and set it forward some ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello y’all another question for you. Couple days ago it was 75 degree weather. I had my air screws about half a turn out. This was about the sweet spot and I know it is border line, however, I just started my shee today in 93 degree weather and it had very high idle. It started bogging off idle, and the choke pulled up did not affect the idle. I am assuming I should go up a pilot, but with the weather warming mean I should actually go down a pilot? I feel like this is reverse for me on how I need to go up a pilot because of warmer weather. I was not not worried about being half a turn out because I figured the weather was getting warmer. Any ideas ? Or do I have this mixed around? Thank you! Banshee mods- stock head, stock bore, stock porting, 4mill, timing+2 28mm pwk, k and n pods, CPI pipes, stock reeds, 50:1,

Hey everyone, How hot should the banshee pipes be getting? Current jets 152 main, 48 pilot, needle in the middle. Air screws about half a turn out from closed. Just did some pulls today on my street about 1-4 gear nothing crazy. The pipes “headers” are not blue or anything crazy just definitely hot, can put my hand on them for about second if that before it will burn. There is good amount “normal” smoke amount from each pipes when giving it some. Does not have high idle, or hanging, and it does not bog either. I’m sure these can get warm because they are thin piece of metal, just want to be sure. I will be doing plug chops soon. Banshee mods- stock head, stock bore, stock porting, 4mill, timing+5, 28mm pwk, k and n pods, CPI pipes, stock reeds, 50:1, 85 degree weather, 500 elevation. I was wondering if this can be my oil ratio is little to lean. I run 50:1 with klotz on 91 pump gas. Is it better to drop down to 40:1 to save longevity of my engine? Any recommendations would be great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea sir ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello everyone well I posted a forum about having trouble with my jetting. I thankfully figured it out that these genuine keihin carbs 28pwk have a open stem that was essentially an air leak. I am in the ball park of getting these carbs right. I am trying to synch the carbs at idle, the idle is little high and hangs when I give it a blurp of throttle. I want to fix this issue, however, I am working one thing at a time. When at idle the left carb reads 7 and the right carb was reading 10. It’s clear the the carbs are out of synch, therefore, do I use the idle screws to bring the needle up or down. I clearly know that I turned both idle screws 2 and half turns in from contact of the slide. Can my measurements be that far off? Can my pilot air screws affect this ? When do I know the problem is my idle screws are wrong or missed counted or vice versa my air mix screws are out of wack Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay perfect I will find some nipple plugs for them. Maybe this is why it was running funny. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did not know that was supposed to be plugged. I don’t understand why it doesn’t come from the factory like that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow! No I do not are you talking about that nipple next to my index finger ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is a picture, and yes I’m scared to start this thing now. [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello everyone hope everybody is staying busy during this Covid-19. I am have some jetting trouble and lookin for some advice. Recently just purchased some new carbs for my shee. I had the 34 mm pjs and they were just to much carb for my motor. I went with 28 mm pwk carbs. My current jet stats are 48 pilots, 158 mains, needle in the middle Clip. Air screws 2 turns out, idles are 2 in from contact of the slide. This all being said I tried to start me shee, damn thing was having trouble. I opened up the choke and it started to idle. I notice it didn’t sound right sound funny. In span of maybe 5 mins of idling I gave it just small amount of throttle, and the damn thing came alive. Started to diesel on me and shit broke loose. The key and ignition switch did not stop that thing, unplugged the boots shit was still going. Thankfully I was able to kill covering my hands over the carbs. It was only running high idle for about 35 seconds if that thankfully. Prior to this happening the head was not pitted all. This being known I assumed it had an air leak. I did a air leak test, 8 pounds for 32 min it passed still holding 8. Now I am kind of in a bind on why the heck would this happen? Are my jets that far off the bike ran so lean? I pulled the top end everything’s fine no slap, scaring or pitting. My shees mods are, Stock head, Stock porting, 4mm crank, stock reads, CPI pipes, timing +5. My temperature is around 70-85 degrees, 400 elevation. Any advice would be helpful for jetting sizes and any idea on how this happened. I don’t need smart responses please. I am new to this 2-stoke tuning game. Everyone was here at some point. I am just trying to learn and understand best I can thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello banshee world, I came to this form to seek some clarification and better understanding of how I should go along with my issue. Long story short I purchased my first banshee ever wanted to try the 2 stoke life and wow what a amazing feeling, The last owner built a 4 mill, it has stock cylinders, head, and porting. He added a spacer for the base gasket to meet the 4 mill requirements. I went riding at the dunes sending it hard and blew a hoes that connects to the head I thought it was a loose hose no big deal. Decided it was time for some upgrades threw new basket, clutch and springs and a pancake bearing. the water pump gear look good the gear was perfect no issues, I purchased over sized rad along with new hoses installed them all no issues, Started the bike and not even 5-10 min the bike was spitting coolant from the top main hose, on a 70 degree day. I clamped down the clamp turned it over started leaking from the lower hose. I went down and checked the hose it was almost ballooned. I popped the rad cap off when the bike was cool it sounded like opening a shook Pepsi bottle. Now I'm stuck with options, do I just replace the head gasket and I should be good to go? or the other option is purchasing a pro designs cool head with 21 or 22 cc domes. If going the cool head route do I have to get the domes cut for a 4mill? or do they come pre-cut? is it possible to not get the domes cut and keep the spacer I already have and just purchase regular domes? I am really not trying to take the engine out because I only took it out for 2 rides! I do plan on rebuilding it maybe couple months from now so I know what exactly Is in my bike. Thank you for any help!