PapoEvoVIII

Looking to buy a set of sniper racing pipes for my shee. If you got a set you’d like to se and ship or meet locally in Miami area, pm me

I’m new to banshees but diagnostics is a general thing when it comes to motors which I work around. If you’ve bypassed the key switch and removed the tors to check then try checking to see if you have signal coming into the ignition coil for spark. Start there to see if maybe it’s a bad coil. If that checks out fine you have bad coil. If you don’t have signal at the wire well then I’d have to look at the wiring diagram for a banshee to tel you where to look next but I believe it would be the cdi box. Wiring diagram will be your best friend in this situation if you know how to read one.

I was looking into the driveline assassin cylinders but they’re currently out of stock. Will have to call to see what the eta on them are. But I’ve been hearing good things about the assassin cylinders from a few people locally and reading online. And it’s nice that they have the lp, mp, and hp, already preset so you don’t really have to go in there and further port. Or as with the servals, they come already a bit big and you can only go bigger from there. personally I’m not looking to make 90+ hp although if the bike makes it then f**k it right? Lol but I’m looking for maybe 80-85ish hp with more mid and top than low but more mid than anything else. Reason being for me not caring to much about low end is because out here in Florida the trails aren’t really much slow/mid speed trails where you’ll be in the low/mid of the rpm band often. You’ll be more in the mid/high with a lot more mid than high, if that makes sense to you lol. I’d heard good things about t5’s and the dmc aliens, but just recently I was looking at some reviews on the slp. I’ve seen a lot of people backing them for trail riding, where all around, it’s one of the best performing pipes which still has more top end rpm than the pc pipes that cap out at 8600 rpms. in regards to the comment about you’ll still miss a shift no matter what mods you do, I do agree with that. Not to mention humans aren’t perfect and we make errors, time and time again. It’s just a natural thing. one good thing about me is, I take in to account, the things people mention, or when I see people posting pics of parts that frequently go bad or are prone to breaking. So in an effort to save myself frustration and time, I will stock up on a few extra of those pieces just to be safe. another thing is, reason for me wanting to go with lectrons is because when setup right, they should outperform any jetted carb in the low end, therefore giving me a bit more hp/tq on the low rpm band. Of course everything is tuning though and patience and knowing what you are doing. Not just thinking you can do something when you know damn well you are lying to yourself lol since I see more people running the dual pingel vs the mikuni black hf pump, I have opt’d to go that route and test it for myself. and considering driveline already makes cylinders with different postings I might just put together my own engine build instead of wasting the reps time over at redline and since I was going to assemble the whole thing myself already, just go that route. in terms of crank, id really like to go with the crankworks crank as they are very reputable and i don’t have to worry about welds breaking or anything with the billet crank. Also comes balanced from them so don’t have to worry about minor imbalances with a trued and welded crank. Not trying to knock on the Vito’s or hot rods or other companies, I know they work tremendously well, but if you have the funds to go with something that’s for sure 100% better, then hell, why not? It’s long term insurance in the end. as for gas selection, I’ll be sticking to 93 since that’s the highest octane available to me here at the gas stations. Saves me from having to carry around an extra 5 gallon tank of race gas lol Really appreciative for the detailed response 🙏🏻 Thank you angel

I take it your mikunis have a larger bowl as well? Or you running the factory mikuni bowls that the 34’s come with? But alright well dual pingel it is. Saves me some vacuum line running and tapping lol how do you like the 421 with the 34mm? Any dyno graph to show hp/tq curve? What kinda riding do you do?

I’ll hit him up then when I get back in town and see what he has. I saw the battery and Rec kit he sells but might opt to make my own and put it in the front under the plastic, was thinking of putting a slightly bigger battery so I can get a bit more stored up charge. Sometimes we’ll be out in the middle of nowhere in the dark just posted and some of the guys will be hooning around so makes for a nice back up to have lights on without needing to turn the bike on as often. Driveline assassin is what I’m currently looking for but they’re out of stock currently for a while it seems. I’ll shoot them a call though next week to see if they can give any details on eta. That’s why I said 34/36. I see some people run 33 pwk’s but since I want a bit more pep down low maybe I’ll opt for their 30’s instead with some Paul turner or toomey t5 pipes. the fuel pump idea is just for added safety since we do consistent riding for maybe 30 min to an hour sometimes to reach the location we are going to or sometimes just riding around seeing some new areas and stuff. And of course who rides around looking for new areas to ride without wanting to get on it often on some long straights. Plus since we do a lot of high speed wot runs it’s good since the carbs will be running a bit rich on the top. It’ll choke out some power but added safety in keeping the cylinder cooler and therefore also running through gas faster. But I could always try the pingel out and if it doesn’t give me fuel starvation hiccups then just keep using it. If it does then I can just swap to the pump. thanks angel

I’ve looked around but I don’t think he makes stators anymore. As for floating the ground that’s a simple job that can be done at home. I have heard he will rewind an oem stator still for more wattage. So I may go that route as that’s a more timely process that I don’t feel like taking on. thats the reason for the bigger gas tank from ims. I get more riding out of it considering gas tanks on 4 pokes are generally in the 2.5-3.6g range so I would be able to ride just about as long as they would. Plus we refill during the trips so not all those hours on 1 tank either lol. My ltr can’t even do that... buying a built bike is nice, you save a lot of money but I don’t find joy in buying someone else’s project. It’s always a pleasure when you build your own project. And I plan on taring it down eventually to do my own gusset and powdercoat the frame. One of my businesses has to do with metal working and fabricating. whats a 392 setup? Stock stroke serval cub? thanks angel

Hmmm, that’s a bummer. Sometimes I get caught up at night riding back home and I know the headlights on the shee aren’t very good as they dim during idle and progressively get brighter as the rpms go up. Ill look up the specific thread though, thanks.

Not necessarily will they be building it. They will only be doing the port work, I will be putting the engine together myself more than likely. I always like to tackle things myself and Have some fun in the process. also not in my hands yet, but soon will be owning one. Thank you though, definitely excited to have a shee soon

If I take a while to respond at times, forgive me. I’m currently vacationing in Canada and spending some of my spare time looking up other things for the banshee build and gathering as much information I can about them from all around the web. Of course as anything, don’t believe everything you read, but hey if you got more than 3 people saying the same thing then usually it is as said versus one person saying something and no one else backing that up in the same thread or in other threads

So I currently own a ‘06 ltr 450 and soon gonna be sold and I’m going to get a banshee. I’ve been looking around and reading a lot online for the last 2 weeks, as well as getting different ideas and learning new things from some close friends that are or were banshee owners. I live in south Florida and mainly do trail riding with a bit of woods depending the area we go to ride at. And so I have 2 different options for a build and would like to get the forums opinions. As well as any other builds you may recommend, although I’m pretty sure I’m covering the 2 most popular builds currently for my style of riding. Obviously on either of the two builds I will be running: V Force 4 Reeds Cool head Pro mod transmission with modified shift star and shift detention bearing, with possible Wpc treatment option Chariot billet clutch basket Direct drive lock up clutch kit, I know many of you have your pros and cons on these but I rode my friends shee with a 4 mil 66.5mm bore trail port and I loved how it shifted. Has pro mod trans and the shifting was butter smooth and I had no issues with the clutch pull pressure. Some complain on the forums that it’s stiff but his was almost oem feel Driveline performance dune/trail clutch kit Chariot billet impeller/cover and the billet impeller gear Aluminum radiator I will be converting over to dc using the ricks Motorsport stator and trail tech reg/rec Mikuni black fuel pump Lectron 34mm or 36mm carbs, setup for high flow pumps, I know a lot of people have their own opinions on these carbs and many will possibly tell me to go with keihin or mikuni carbs as there’s tons of support for them on here but I like the idea of the lectrons and how they work and I can also see them being a bit more responsive/peppy on the low end as compared to jetted carbs Ims over sized gas tank, many of you don’t like how they look but I personally do. I also ride with some 4 pokes and we ride about 8-10 hours out of the day when we ride, sometimes 2 days back to back and I travel long distances so fuel is a must Now for the engine internals, I plan on having redline racing do my port work and also ordering a lot of my engine related stuff from them. For my kind of riding though would you guys recommend going: Stock bored cylinders, 66.5mm, with a crankworks 4 mil stroker crank Or Crankwork 4 mil stroker crank with a serval cub kit Both builds will be ported by redline racing with a dune/trail port Also what do you guys think about using ceramic bearings on the engine and trans? I’m not talking cheap Chinese bulls**t bearings, real ceramic bearings. What are your guys opinions on these versus the tz/maxload bearings. To give you a brief background about me, I’m not new to the atv world but I am new to the 2 stroke atv world. Also for some 10 years already I’m really big into cars and i build my own cars and have experience around engines, building, rebuilding, servicing, etc. So no need to get into the super tech stuff and try to break it down how it all works. So I’m a firm believer in you get what you pay for and a firm believer in wait a bit extra to save up a few bucks to buy the better part. I also am aware of how 2 strokes work as I’m also big into racing nitro rc cars which is very similar to 2 strokes although the banshee cylinders I see have extra ports and I’m under the impression that they were designed to help increase the volume of the chamber before closing the ports and compressing to bring the total volume of trapped air over the 347cc of what it should really be trapping. Hence the boost ports?!?!? Still a bit unfamiliar in this area. Anyways any opinions and help you guys can give in helping decide would be appreciated. I know the difference in power between the 2 setups would be about 10hp but what about how usable is the power band between one and the other. Obviously the 4 mil serval will make more power but how will it respond down low compared to the 66.5mm 4 mil or even a stock bore 4 mil setup. For suspension, I have already spoken with Laeger to go with some +2+1 a arms with some pep pb1 extra large res, zps shocks, for the front and rear and I’m looking at doing a lonestar racing -1 swingarm with their extended axle setup. Another thing, what about changing the gear ratio with the gears behind the clutch basket, and in the general area, versus changing the gearing using the sprockets, fr/r. I was looking into running the redline racing 2.68 or at least running the stock ratio gearing setup from redline racing. I like the straight cut gears versus helical style. Smoother and less forces working on the gear teeth. Of course with the sacrifice of some whining. Thank you!!!! Angel Or y’all can call me by my nickname Papo Hope to get this thing going soon and start sharing my build with y’all. There’s a shit ton more that I’m doing to it but I don’t want to bomb you all with my entire build idea in a thread that I’m only looking for some opinions on other things lol