Deets
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Posts posted by Deets
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I bought my shee with those cheapo’s on it. Never could get em to work unless you pumped the lever about 4 times. Then they start to grab. I even bought a new master thinking that may be it. Bled the shit out of too. Still junk.
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There may be room for stacks in there.
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You start running out of room for the filters and pipes between frame. Stacks would set em back farther yet.
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17 minutes ago, bluebanshee98 said:
Welcome. Looking forward to the pictures. You find tons of important & correct info on this forum
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLol
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Do the carbs have KEIHIN embossed on the side?
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17 hours ago, WALZ said:
photo test 2 (now I can't edit the one above or delete it) sorry just figuring this forum stuff out
Paint or powder coat?
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On 11/30/2020 at 7:54 PM, luna2001xx said:
alright ill try that out man ima taking notes of all that you think thatll make me hit my power band? cause havent been able to just basically revs out and thats the end of it
So it revs to full rpm but no power?
Main jet is way big like others said, but it might be worth looking at your clutch also.
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I’d be curious what the compression is.
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On 12/2/2020 at 6:07 PM, WALZ said:
I’m not worried about $6.50/gal race fuel. It’s distance. Glamis and St Anthony you burn so much getting to the good stuff. Oregon, Utah and Michigan it’s not a problem. I think I’m going to keep as-cast. You guys pointed out some good threads and the DL as-cast actually has mild porting compared to CP cast. Mid 80’s hp is nothing to sneeze at when it’s getting the fuel economy. I am going to ditch the 10 pound heavier LSR +4 for a shorter aluminum one then ditch the hipers for less rotation weight. Stick a fork in it! This build has taken way too long.
Pics, we need pics
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Been pretty busy the last couple months, finally got the bike out for a ride. A little fat, but that’s to be expected with the heat. Did some road riding and I could feel and see the bike torquing sideways when I’d get in the throttle, then straighten up when I let off.
Checked it out and the adjusters move up and down freely (not sure if that’s normal), and the axle has play back and forth in the swing arm. I’m not convinced that just tightening up everything will keep the play out.
I’m sure some of you guys have seen this before? -
Looks like a cold seize.
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2 hours ago, alcoholbanshee said:
How much for the BHL??
Skeeter will pay you to LYBH
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Is it common for floats to need adjustment on new carbs? 28 PWK’s
After every ride when I stop I get a small puddle of fuel from the over flow.
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Depends on what you want to spend, billet ones look pretty cool. They Probly have better leverage than stock I’d say too.
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Either oil still mixes fine with the gas and that is all that matters
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They both had to go down and in on mine.
Definitely need pipe wrap.
mine haven’t had any issue coming loose after two tanks so far. -
So oil ratio is the only thing that has any affect on how much smoke you have?
I’m sure it may be a little different, I’m just sayin if your jetting is spot on then the difference would most likely not be noticeable. And if a little extra 2smoke bothers ya, then maybe you should stick to 4 strokes. Lol
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10 hours ago, Jackham said:
I have just bought the slp pipes aswel and have pod filters. I guess I’m going to be having the same problem.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI’m running a billet Chariot intake, so YMMV
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5 hours ago, ClaudeMachining said:
Cheaper and less smoke.
Envoyé de mon SM-G965W en utilisant Tapatalk
Smoke is from the tune, your rich if it’s smoking.
I have no smoke at all at 32:1 when it’s warmed up. -
Are there any advantages of running 50:1 over 32:1? I can’t think of any, besides that it’s cheaper.
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6 hours ago, ClaudeMachining said:
Oil is also there to act like a seal between the rings and the cyl.
That's why 20:1 will give a little bit more power than 50:1.
Envoyé de mon SM-G965W en utilisant Tapatalk
True story
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I used to mix Klotz Benol and Mobil 1 all the time.
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3 hours ago, Yaxy said:
This is a great conversation and like the rest of you I am learning a lot. Over my 30 years as a Banshee owner I would like to share the following points:
- Your engine is a pump. It needs a combination of fuel and air to run. An imbalance of any of these 2 components can lead to performance and longevity issues.
- Since you are on a 2 stroke, let’s define fuel as a combination of Oil and Gas. Air is the 3rd component.
- Your carbs have a pilot and a main jet where a combination of gas and oil flow through them.
- When I was a youngster, I used to think more oil made my motor run richer. This is incorrect. Gas keeps your motor cool, oil is there to lube your parts. (Think of a 4 stroke motor, you don’t put oil in your gas tank). The more oil in your gas/oil mixture the leaner your motor is running.
- With the above said, after an engine rebuild, I will always run a little extra oil in the gas for extra lubrication. I will do this for the first 3 tanks of fuel and then back to my normal gas/oil mixture.
What I have learned. I used to mix 20:1, then 32:1, then 40: 1 and now 50:1. I feel 50:1 is a comfortable balance of a gas to oil mixture for the modded Banshees I own. We want to keep our motors lubricated thus we want to use the right amount of oil, not too much, not too little. The oil you buy should have a recommended gas/oil listed See what they recommend (Call the manufacturer if needed) and use this as a starting point. Whatever you decide on for a mixture, always remember to verify your jetting.
Well said
Fox Floats and what rear shock?
in Suspension
Posted
There is a new Elka rear shock with a piggyback reservoir.