coops03shee

Gusto, Sorry I missed this! Here are some pics 9f my brake lever with the DD cover and XFR nerfs. My brake lever is stock and unmodified. Tony Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Here are some pics of the pipes on the shee. The gap at the head is about 3/16" and the gap at the frame upright is about 1/16 - 1/8". You get an idea how close they come to the frame at the pipe connection as well and also how close the carb on the left side is to the head pipe. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Jayzx10r, The Pro Circuits fit pretty well. The right side head pipe clears the frame with a decent amount of room. You will want to pay attention to your clutch cable and coolant line coming out of the water pump just to make sure they don't hit the head pipe. The left side head pipe is a little closer to the upright frame tube in-front of the head and gets a little close on the side of the head. The spot were the left head pipe had me scratching my head the most was with fuel line routing. I ended up molding a fuel line to tuck behind the crossover tube and under the head pipe to make sure it stayed away from the heat. With the pipe connection to the spark arrestors, they fit well on both sides but are VERY close to the frame. I had to do a little massaging to get some clearance and still allow room for the rubber pipe connector. Once everything was bolted up they are mounted pretty snug and don't flop around or rattle against anything. In all, they are a pretty decent fitting pipe in my opinion. Tony

Hope this uploads, short little vid of 2 stroke music. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Tricked, thanks! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out, still have a couple more things I want to do to finish it off. Schweet, the SLP pipes really did perform nicely down low with some very impressive torque numbers and curve. The reason I went with the Pro Circuits is I wanted a good all around pipe, i.e. one that wasn't geared to just the high end and one that wasn't a stump puller. Another reason for the choice of the Pro Circuits was the need for spark arrectors, a requirement where I ride. Damn nice place but the DNR DOES check that stuff there. The Pro Circuit pipes are pretty much right in the middle and gave great all around numbers on the dyno. I will run these for a while and see how I like them, I'm not dead set that Pro Circuits are the ONLY pipe I will run. Compared to the pile of shit I started with, this thing is gonna be a blast to ride!!! Zillafreak, I'm not horribly shocked at the numbers the Pro Circuits made. Some of this may be from what Cam and I talked about from the get go and what I was looking for. With the port work Cameron did on the motor it was geared towards this style of pipe verse a Shearer or CPI. Canadianshee, thank you for the compliments! I like the XFR nerf bars but DAMN were they a bitch to get mounted up. The rear attachment ear that goes to the subframe on the right side was way out of whack by almost 2 inches. After some gentle massaging lol, I got them to bolt up. Thanks Gusto. Once I have more time on the thing I will probably play around a bit with pipes, jetting, and gearing to see if it likes one set-up verse another. Dyno numbers are nice but the ride could tell a different story. Thanks again everyone for the compliments! Tony

After a long wait for the motor, it's finally done. Got the idle set and let it run for a little bit to get some temp in it. After checking everything for leaks it was time to take a couple laps in the yard. First impression is Cameron did a great job on the motor!! Great pull even off idle. Gotta flush the cooling system to get all the anit-freeze out and swap to engine ice. Anyway, here's the dyno chart and some pics of it put together. Went with Pro Circuit pipes to start. I'll see how they feel and go from there. On the dyno sheet blue is FMF, green T5, brown Pro Circuit, yellow SLP, red CPI. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Nope, that wasn't me, I avoid FB lol. I enjoy doing work like that so it wasn't a big deal to bang them out. I use to build and sell these about 10-15 years ago. Saw one once and wanted to build one so I made build plans and got to cutting, bending, and welding. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Thanks dano3. I made the gussets myself. I used cardboard to make templates and then transferred everything onto sheet steal. Took about 3 hrs to make all of them using a band-saw, drill press, and sanding drum for the radius on the curves. It really wasn't that hard to make them. The hardest ones to make were for the area by the exhaust hangers that also support the steering hoop. There were a couple compound bends I put in to make everything sit flat against all mating surfaces.

Place is called All Motor Graphics. They have a bunch of different designs to choose from if graphics is your thing. They can put sponsor logos, your name, damn near anything you want on a set of graphics. Tony Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the compliment! I originally wanted to do red and black plastics but finding a new set of red plastics that I wanted was damn near impossible. The blue was easy enough to find and once I got them on and cut I liked them even more. As for the graphics, this is the second full custom set I've ordered from them and they are nice. Good quality, thick, and pretty easy to apply once you get the hang of it. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Claude, You have his cell lol Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Not much of an update but wanted to post up recent progress. Still waiting on the motor from Redline, shade over 4 months so hoping that bitch rips!!! Got the rear fenders installed and mocked up the nerfs. The nerfbars are built nicely but the right side was a bitch to get mounted, foot peg was welded on at an angle which helped create about an 1 1/2" gap at the rear mounting locations. Talked with XFR and they said this is normal. Scratched my head about the whole that's normal thing but they're on for now. Tony Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

After I posted the reply I saw your comment in the shout box about getting the turn-downs lol. Those sparkies you got are a nice looking piece, you'll have to post up some final pics once you get things put together. When the time comes I may hit you up about contacting the gentleman making those. Given how they are made with the screw on end cap there is a number of possibilities that you could make to suite your needs. Tony

Tony, With the mounting plate being aluminum sourcing aluminum tubing to weld to it may be pricey. Another alternative I thought about was having someone make new mounting plates out of steel and you could use regular exhaust tubing and weld to the new flange. This would make changing over from sparkies to the turn-downs quick. Just undo the four bolts that hold the mounting flange and swap on whatever ones you want. Doing a quick search on Summit Racing I found 1.5" 180 degree exhaust bend that you could use and weld to a new steel mounting flange. I know it's not the 1.375" diameter you currently have but there still may be enough room to weld, it up and still get your four mounting screws in, tig weld would be even better probably. Here is a link to a 180 degree bend, granted, it's polished 304 series stainless but it's also $14.99 and you could get both turn-downs out of it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-622102/overview/ Thought I would share the idea and let you marinate on it. Tony

Disregard the original seat sitting on there, still need to send the seat to Cascade for a new custom cover. I put the seat on so I can sit there or hop up and down making 2 stroke engine noises. When I'm feeling like I really need to step it up a notch, I put a shop fan in front of me to simulate going fast lol. Of course by then the engine noises get stupid loud and the cops get called. Kinda like starting a fresh small block at 3 am with open headers. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk