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Derpy Drifter

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About Derpy Drifter

  • Rank
    HQ Soldier
  • Birthday 07/21/1998

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  • Interests
    cars/trucks/quads/things with engines, racing, computers, welding

Previous Fields

  • My Banshee (optional)
    2002 Banshee, blue, fresh engine (new crank case, true welded crank case and rods, Wiesco pistons), tors eliminator kit, sanded shift star, stock reeds and carbs, K&N cone filter, FMF Gold pipes.

Recent Profile Visitors

570 profile views
  1. I’ve always run 10w-30 conventional motor oil and never had issues with the clutches sticking, and no damage to the transmission. I’m considering switching to 50/50 ATF and heavy duty hydraulic oil on the new motor and clutches. I work with hydraulics regularly in my career and that mixture proves to be good. With all the detergents in ATF keeping things clean and the high film strength of the hd hydraulic oil. Anybody have input to add on that? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. Good info I didn’t know that about the long strokers. Might come in handy when my 521 is running in a few weeks. Also I totally agree on the starting fluid. Good way to wipe out the bearings. I’ve always used a plastic water bottle filled with 2 stroke gas and a hole in the lid for those situations. Muccchh safer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Leave it stock for now, the issue to me sounds electrical after reading the whole post, but the fewer variables the better. I highly recommend buying a brand new harness from Kevin Gallindo aka South Texas Banshee. I have one and the quality is great and price is awesome. He’s on eBay and Facebook. Either that or completely unwrap your harness and get rid of anything non essential to the motor running. But honestly for 100ish bucks, buy one of Kevin Gs harnesses and save a big headache. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. Yeah well, we’ll see I guess. I’m more than likely gonna buy the big bore shearer in frames that Tricked Carbine has with tax return in the next month. Unless somebody else has a better deal but I doubt it. But honestly, at this point I kind of want to run the FMFs for a minute just to see how bad they are compared to real pipes. Just for shits and giggles. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. Well, maybe I’m wrong. I don’t know. All I know for sure is I got clocked at that speed and the math says that’s the rpm it turned. And I know that it was only the third or fourth time running it out that hard before the pistons and bearings exploded. I apologize for my ignorance on pipes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. True true, the 60v would be more in my neighborhood. But honestly, like I said, I don’t need it lol I just love tools Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Yes, it does. Far enough apart to keep the pistons and head from getting too friendly with each other though. I don’t recommend everyone do all the stupid shit I’ve done with these motors but that is one that works, reliably even. Not saying it’s guaranteed, obviously it’s a good idea to check your squish whenever changing parts in the top end whether it’s a gasket, jug, piston or head. Make of it what you will Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Yeah it’s probably one of those little stress things you squeeze when you’re dealing with ignorance. That’s what I thought it was for sure Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Sweet man. I’m probably gonna get the chop saw even though I honestly don’t need it lol. I love my grinder and big impact though, they’re the shit for me. I’m a metal worker and welder mainly so how good does the chop saw cut metal in your experience? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Yes. I had +2 timing. And at that particular time I was running an eBay top end kit before I decided to put money into it and buy real shit. I actually ported the cylinders myself, had no idea what I was doing yet, just hogging shit out lol. It sounds like bullshit but I swear it worked. Part of the proof I was turning that many rpm is both pistons and wrist pin bearings exploded on me. Here’s pictures of the destruction. Hard to see but the bottom end was so full of chunks and shit it wouldn’t even turn over anymore. Also not sure if kawa was talking about me but I did that too, and shaved
  11. Makes sense. Brushless is the shit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. FMF golds.. yes I know I’ve been thoroughly informed they’re junk but that’s what the math says. I was clocked at 97.7mph with 14/44 sprockets and 20 inch tires. My trail tech vapor said 97.9mph, which bring .2mph off at that speed is pretty impressive I feel Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I ran 170psi on 93 octane 32:1 for a long time before I went with the 521cc kit. Never had any issues with pinging or detonation, and I was turning 12-13k rpm. I calculated that based on speed, tire size and gearing. Have you guys had problems with it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. No you can do the whole top end in the bike. Just pull the plastics and gas tank off. Also you can delete the base gasket and just use RTV black or gray. It gives you a little more bottom and top end compression. Enough to feel a little extra kick in power, and I’ve never had any problems with it. Just clean both surfaces with brake clean on a towel and use a thin layer of RTV. But honestly like they said that is a nothing leak. You can see if it even affects the way it runs by spraying starting fluid at it while idling, it’ll either rev up or bog down if it affects it. Sent from my iPhon
  15. I’ve got all Dewalt stuff and I love it. However all of mine is XR series batteries and tools, I notice a substantial difference in comparison to a couple co workers non-XR stuff. I’ve got the 1/2” drill, impact driver, 1/2” impact wrench, and my latest additions are the 4.5” XR grinder and the 60v 6ah flex volt batteries. I’m very impressed with the grinder, lots of power and very comfortable to work with, it’s my go to for making precise cuts. And the 1/2” impact wrench.. dear god that’s got some power, especially with the 60v batteries. It’ll take off semi truck lugs all day. Figured I’d gi
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