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ClaudeMachining

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Posts posted by ClaudeMachining

  1. I just bought my first banshee it’s a 92 it has 17 cc domes 65mm wiseco pistons wiseco clutch basket, Hinson presser plate with heavy duty springs with tusk heavy duty clutch kit, has +4 timing, mikuni flat slide 35mm carbs K&T bored out to 35.5mm. What gas should I run in it? I’ve heard 110 and 91 mix and I’ve heard to run just aviation fuel thanks in advance
    Uccr test and report back.

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  2. After talking to driveline, I bought 23cc domes and it made such a huge difference! 
    The cranking psi is now 140(cold). I know I should check it again warm just to make sure it’s not too high but I’m sure it’s pretty safe yet. 
    I didn’t confirm the squish clearance yet either. .051-.055 is the green zone correct? 
    Anyway I thought I’d say it’s running fantastic. 
    I had no idea it would be such a drastic change. The cpi pipes that I have on there (I hate to admit it) kind of sucked for playing around and trail riding but now it seems to have way more mid torque. They almost feel like my old t5’s did but in addition to a lot more top end as well. I haven’t touched the jets yet but we’ll see. The thing rips!
    Good!!!

    I had a DL 421, it was a great engine.

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  3. Thanks Claude, thank you for responding.
     
    Why do people want +1 or +2 steering stem? Is it for comfort? I am looking at those close IMS/Clarke fuel tanks and apparently clearance is a problem.
     
     
     
     
     
    I got a +2 with my Clark tank.

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  4. Fixing up a 2000 Banshee that I crashed fleeing the Mexican police. The bike hit a curb and I flew over the handlebars and ran. She got four flat tires, bent rims and I can see the tire rod ends bent at the threads. It's multi purpose as in street ride to downtown Cabo as well as a small motocross track with jumps on weekends. 
    The shopping list:
    Lonestar front/rear hubs, axle, sprocket hub, billet locknut, brake hub (package), DC Pro +1 +1 long travel A-arms
    Elka stage 4 front/rear 
    All Balls tie rods
    450 calipers up front, OEM spindles?
    Hiper Tech 3 or OMF?
    Do I need the red Elka dual linkage for rear shock? Can I do Hiper dual beadlock rims for quick rear tire swap? Dominators for the MX track and Kenda Speedracer for the other six days of the week. Need to pick one front tire and was thinking Kenda Kutter or Havoc for on/off road. 
    If there is something else that is mandatory, please let me know....such as clutch/brake levers, switches, etc. I'm pretty new to this Banshee and probably only ridden it for two hours total. 
    I'm going to wait on the motor. I see it has the stock airbox and everything right now and typically you need do the "whole package" in one swoop. So please, I'm down to fix/replace anything else except motor, $1k aftermarket swingarm or strip down to the frame at this time. Will start scrolling through past general discussion topics. now since I just signed up for BansheeHQ today.  
     
    Welcome to the BHQ.

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  5. Oh ok, no I did not. I also didn’t fill it to the top just went to the first thread of the hole.   Thank you for that information.  I will redo everything before I put motor in frame.  Last question if you have a second.  Again bear with me as it has been many many years since I have done anything with a motor.  I’m going to run 110 to start with so as far as timing goes is 6-7 ok to start with or would I be better to back it down, when I do switch it methanol should I bump the compression ratio up? Current squish is .48   I have a set of 18cc that i originally spoke about but squish was like .31 to .33. And I feel that is so small. Am I incorrect or would a guy be ok


    With 110, you can go higher than 13:1. Start with timing at 4, .048" is ok.


    I'm not familiar with the alcool setup, maybe another member can guide you with that.

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  6. Sorry, just got the notice for this.  So I got my new domes and did the same calculations as before.  This time I came up with 11.5:1 and 150 psi.  The math I did was as folloWs
    68mm bore
    34x34x3.14x58 / 1000+20cc / 20
    20cc is the amount that I injected into bore with piston at TDC set with dial indicator ,not sure if that’s correct but that’s the way I have been reading it.   
    Your math are good, but my question is did you remove the spark plug volume???

    Usually, we fill it to the top, then remove 2,4cc (volume of the spark plug hole)

    That make a big difference. See the pic.33b2b4aa82e307b98db09a02492251a1.jpg

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  7. Hi all, new to the forum. Doing a lot of searching on compression ratios and still uncertain.  Just finished a 68mm bore cheetah PV.  The Power valves are blocked off. Anyways, so did a corrected compression ratio and showing 185-190  per side. Doing the UCC  i came up with 12.57   I currently have 18cc domes with .045 of squish.  I have new domes coming from NOSS that are 20cc which will change a few  things.  I do plan on running methanol at some point but would like to stick with race gas for the moment.  I set the timing at +6 currently but wondering if 190 is too high for 110. Thanks all


    12.5 uccr and 190 psi static comp sounds weird to me.

    Show me your numbers. Did you remove the cc of the spark plug from the equation???

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  8. I’m wondering if I would gain any power from switching from my 24cc to 23 or 22cc domes on my 421 assassin. I don’t plan on running anything higher than pump gas. My cranking psi when I built the motor was around 120. Elevation I ride Is 600-1200 ft. 


    You should always run the least octane your setup can take.

    Do a uccr test and report back. Lower than 12, you can put smaller domes.

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  9. Hi Claude nice to meet you. I believe you are the owner of the 521 Banshee I mentioned?
    Thanks for the reference to Driveline cases I hadn't looked at them until now. They claim they have added extra material in all the places the stock cases were lacking for today's larger stroke cranks and aftermarket cylinders. You can trench these cases up to a 14mm stroke without any epoxy or welding and they come already pre trenched to take a 10mil crankshaft.
    Thanks for the info it looks like the Driveline cases would be better for my platform as long as the material is good. I can always research them on here to see what experience people have had with them.
    How are you getting on with your 521 have you had much running time with it since your YouTube video?
    What carburettors are you using? I'm interested in the Smartcarb2 - I've read alot of pros and cons same to be said on the Lectron Billetron carbs I guess it may all come down to personal preference but I am leaning towards wanting to try the SC2 setup. But again I'm not the first to do this so ofcourse any info on experience is welcomed.
    I will be using pump gas the super here in England is 97-99ron E5 fuel and regular is E10 95ron.
    I plan to use E5 97 as a minimum.
    Another thing I forgot to mention is with the transmission/dog gears. I've seen the shift star mods and roller bearing upgrade etc.
    I plan to get a new cut transmission to help with the power and I would like to widen the ratio if possible to help with the road ratio.
    What transmission are you using?


    I'm using Kehin pwk 39mm because I'm used to set them up. I dont have any experience with the smartcarb/lectron stuff.

    As far as fuel, just tell the builder what fuel you will use. Your 97-100 ron fuel is the equivalent of the premium pump gaz (92-93) here, so that make the uccr in the 12ish range

    Mine was set to run Avgaz (105) , so my uccr is higher. I have 2 sets of domes, the 30cc are 178 psi kick compression and the 31cc are 168psi.

    I guess that 12.5 uccr will have something about 140-150psi, depends of the port timing and squish.

    Maybe you can look for the late RD 350 tranny, they have longer gearing iirc.

    Mine was done by Joe Morinali, and i have all the mods in it (pro mod)

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  10. Hi all. I'm new to BansheeHQ but I've recently bought a 1991 350 Shee and I've been doing plenty of research here and I've enjoyed learning from the wealth of knowledge both from here and YouTube with engine work/carbs,exhausts and  setups to see what everyone has done in the past with various applications depending on where the intended use it, trails,dunes etc.
    I'm in England and the Banshee I bought is setup for street use and is road registered and that's how I intend to use it.
    My goal would be to build a 521cc Cub or Super Serval with New Yamaha trenched cases. LED pipes and 38-40mm carbs and enjoy it as a summer cafe racer, weekend riding between fuel stations and just enjoying the nostalgia of a 2stroke machine in a world where electric vehicles seem to be the future and I want to stay in the mehanical past for as long as possible.
    From what I've researched I believe Cam is the guy to speak to at Redline racing. I've also seen that Claude Perron has done a 521 and I like it alot. The LED exhaust looks stunning!
    Any further information is welcomed. From my calculations I can see I'm looking in the area of a $7000 parts list already.
     
    Steve
     
     
    I dont have much to say. It look like you did your homework. Redline is for sure, a great builder.

    You can get Driveline cases, dunno if they are cheaper than oem, price wise.

    Go with Crankworks billet crank.

    Don't be afraid to ask specific questions.

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  11. Good to know. Little update, I've returned the knockoff PWK's to Vitos and I'll be sourcing genuine Keihin 28mm carbs. I haven't gotten around to measuring the port timing yet - I need to get a degree wheel but it's on the to-do list. I assume I'll be checking on both the intake and exhaust side? I plan to conduct research on how those measurements are taken.
    [mention=21914]375hp banshees[/mention] My OEM stator was pretty much junk - the bike did start on it briefly before the rebuild commenced but it was in poor condition. I did look into sourcing an OEM stator but they're like $800 new. Would you suggest sourcing a OE stator used in good condition? I wanted the ability to advance the timing, personally, I doubt I'll have an issue with the stator and I can certainly check it for resistance if I ever have an issue. 
    Planning to do a mix of trail riding and just mobbing around disturbing the peace in my neighborhood. 
    As for fuel, likely a mix of 110 and 93, I'll probably do my break-in period with a 50/50 mix then check my compression and make a decision on what fuel I need to run from there. 
    Why don't you use pump 93??? Did you check the UCCR?

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  12.   This is what I purchased from my local dealership for my first riding trip on Sunday with my Banshee. I bought 4 NGK BR8ES spark plugs, Bel-Ray chain lube, 2 bottles of Bel-Ray 80w Gear Saver and 2 - 5 gallon drums of VP C-12. I have the drain plug out and letting the transmission oil drain out overnight. So… my question is did I make a purchase good for my Banshee? 
     
    Thanks 
    Jake
    No. C-12 is useless.

    You should always run the least octane your setup can take, not the other way around.

    Octane don't make power.

    Use 91-93 pump gaz, ethanol free is better

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    • Thanks 1
  13.  Thank for the quick replies guys!  I did ask him a few questions before I got to start it up. I did check the coolant level in the radiator and over flow bottle and also checked the transmission oil level. I did get to hear it run and It did start with 2 kicks with stone cold engine using the choke. I also did kill the engine a couple of times and it did start right back up with 1 kick. I also checked to see if there was pressure buildup coming out of where the dip stick screws in. I also got to test ride it before I paid for it and he also gave me a 30 day written warranty. I asked him when the last time it was ridden and he said early November. He told me that throughout the time it sits and not being ridden he uses a plastic container that he fills with a little bit of fuel and hangs from a beam and he removes fuel line that connects to the fuel shut off valve and connects the fuel line from the hanging plastic container and he would start it up a couple of times a month. 
     
      I ordered a clymer repair manual and I also ordered a leak down test kit from the South Texas Banshee Guy. I’m borrowing a compression tester from a friend of mine. I spent some of my time yesterday looking over everything  like the front & rear brake system, all of the rubber hoses, the front and back tires, chain and sprockets, rear axle bearings, front hub bearings, upper and lower a-arm bearings, swing arm bearings, suspension bearings and everything else seems nice and tight. I don’t see any signs of any fluids leaking either. I’ll just keep my fingers crossed. 

      As for the 2 stroke pre mix oil he gave me a 1 liter bottle of VP Racing X2 1050 full synthetic 2T off road formula. The bottle seems pretty new and the cap seal doesn’t look broken or anything. My only problem is that it’s not available locally for me to purchase.  I can order it online straight from VP themselves. That’s why I’m asking if it’s safe to change the brand of 2 stroke oil? What would be the best to use? 
     
    Thank you JerzOutlaw 350 & ClaudeMachining 
    Just use the oil and buy some easy available one after.

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    • Like 1
  14.   First off Good Afternoon Fellas!            I would like to introduce myself and my name Jake. I would like to first apologize for the long post here but I am new to this whole Banshee thing. I have been trolling the site for a few weeks now learning as much information as possible about the Yamaha Banshee. So today I decided that I would join the BansheeHQ community. I’ll have to say that this site is very resourceful with a lot of information for a new banshee owner like me. 

    So. this past weekend I purchased a very clean, low hour and a very well maintained (I’m the 2nd owner) 2005 Yamaha Banshee Special Edition that is basically stock other than the aftermarket exhaust system and air filter setup. The previous owners gave me the original owner manual and tool kit with it. He said he had the exhaust system and air filter installed at the time of purchase and that they also jetted carburetors according to the exhaust and air filter setup. He told me that he only ran 6 tanks of fuel through it since it was new. It spent its time sitting in a climate controlled environment covered up sitting off the ground.   
     
    Now to the main question. The owner gave me a brand new bottle of 2 stroke pre mix oil that he used in it from the time it was brand new and told me to mix it at 32:1. Now my concern is would it hurt to change the oil brand or should I buy what he used in it ? 
     
    Thanks in advance. 
     
    Jake 
    Any modern oil mixed in between 2% and 4% will be good.

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    • Like 1
  15. Name 1
    2 years ago, we were on an Industry 4.0 project with a China delegation.

    We tought we were on top of the game until we say their shops and what they are doing.

    It was a brutal awakening...

    I dont say Ali express stuff is good, but they sure can do quality stuff. They have the knowledge and the machines.

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  16. I don’t really want to say any names but locogato might be onto something. Go on ebay and then go on Alibaba and compare the part you want to buy on alibaba, its the same parts. Obviously if you buy in bulk the part will be at like 0.99 cents and maybe you have to buy 500 of them at minimum purchase amount. And yes invest 500 to make your money back etc… for business 
     
    But doesn’t mean that big banshee stores have to tear everyone a new asshole and sell them at 60 dollars a pop, sometimes in the description they even LIE saying it’s a USA quality made quality part I caught many stores saying that also not even saying you can negotiate the item price down with the wholesaler from Alibaba. 
    Chinese can make quality parts too and for less money.

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