ZILLAKILLA

Ok thanks

I'm not sure how old they are they came with the bike. But it sounds right and looks as though they had no groove to except it. Yeah I believe I put red silicone on it but didn't last very long because of the oil and gas mixture made it deteriorate after only a few hours of riding.

I have always had problems with these pipes properly excepting the O-ring and making a tight seal. It looks as though they've been grind it down so it doesn't except the O-ring to make it still sit flush. Getting oil blow by from O-rings getting blown out of their position. I have even used high temperature gasket seal around the flange and the O-ring and they would just deteriorate within a few rides from the gas and oil mixture. Any help would be great. LRD Adjustable Race Pipes

I am getting ready to tear down the bottom end because of a supposed bad crank seal. (Smoking a ton out the right side exhaust) question one is that the most likely culprit and should the rod crank bearings also get done? I'm having the crank tried and welded also. What else while I'm in there if anything. Thanks for help.

Thoughts. Compression is 130 in each cyl with 20cc domes at sea level 93 octane

Reeds are in good shape brand-new about 10 hours ago. V Force 4 's and I haven't checked the dipstick in the last ride or two but I changed it about 3 or 4 quick rides ago. I am going to do a compression check to make sure it's not the ring on the piston and then do a leak down between the two of those I should be able to have it narrowed down.

Klotz 36:1 Sea level

Is it leaking oil from the stater side it was from the clutch side that most of it was blowing on my boots

The main problem with where I'm getting at is a lot of smoke was coming from the right pipe even after the warm-up excessively to the point which I've never seen it before. So I'm wondering why this problem is occurring and where it's coming from.

Stock bottom end*

Motor is in 02 as stock bought a man and tranny never taken apart that I know of but strong. The top and I rebuilt 30 over and ported the cylinders about 15 ride hours ago. I have LRD adjustable race pipes so they are two peas so the seal around them or 100% and it was leaking oil from there for the first time ever. Also around the O-rings which never really fit right because of the pipe flange it leaks Oil from the O-rings on to the motor. I even replace the O-rings several times and even put two springs on each spot instead of one. Just recently I put high temperature silicone around the O-rings to stop that blow by with the oil and this is the first time I'm having a problem with the oil coming out of the pipe where it adjusts at. I was told it could be a crank seal but I don't want to think that way right away I'm wondering if oil is just blowing by the piston ring. I'll only know that by checking the compression first and then take the pipes off to do the leak down test. Any more info would be helpful at this point.

I have a oil leak problem coming out of the O-rings and out the exhaust. I was already told might be the crank seal. Before I get to ripping this thing apart obviously I should check the leak down and the compression and each cylinder. So can I leave the exhaust and pipes hooked up to the exhaust ports when I do the compression test? And what about the leak down tests, do they have to be removed and capped off?

So what's the repair process on crank seal? Bottom end apart? Wtf!! And what would the carbs have to do with it? What's a realistic compression number? 120-140ish???

I have a lot of smoke coming out of my right side exhaust like crazy. Hardly any at all like normal on the left side. I'm thinking oil is getting by the rings and it was dripping onto my right foot when I went for a quick ride. Question number one is what is my compression supposed to be? Set up is cylinders question number one is what is my compression supposed to be? Set up is cylinders ported and punched out .30 over, V force 4 reeds, Tors delete, cool head w/20cc domes, stock carbs. At sea level. So what is the proper way to do a compression check once the tester is on the bike? I heard that you kick it three times like normal and then that's it. also what is my compression supposed to be around. I have about 20 ride hours since my last top end rebuild. If it's just the one side that's bad and the other one is good I'm thinking about just putting rings on it and going to cheaper way out for now. Is that a bad idea? What size compression tester do I need? The one I saw at the auto store said it fits 14 and 18 mm so I'm wondering if that is for a stock cylinder banshee.

Every time I go to ride I have very little from brakes. The lines are braided and not old, The fluid is full, and I have bled them several times to the point that they get full pressure in them and then by the next weekend I can almost pull the lever back to the handlebar.I have taken the calipers apart and sprayed WD on the pushpins and put all new front brake pads on.I don't understand how I'm losing pressure but what are ways to troubleshoot and solve this problem. Thank you ahead of time.