fixitrod

This depends 100% on your riding. Stock suspension is tough in more way than one, though, including on your body, lol . I had my Banshee about 6 months back in the day and went straight to a quality suspension. Asking if they'll hold up is relative to what you'll be doing.

Have you tried swapping left and right spark wires to see if the other cylinder fires better? They both fire on the the "on and off" stroke. Verify no air leaks by spraying starter fluid around carbs and reeds. Verify no broken reeds. Verify choke tube is between carbs. Verify slides are synced Veify main and pilot jets are tight Just trying to think of simple things first.

Make sure your pilot jets didn't get something in them or are loose from taking them apart.

I know this post is old but If you have a way to measure the correct amount of oil for the amount of gas you add it'd work fine.

Did you try a new stator or test it only? I've tested stators that tested good and were not. If you haven't tried one see if a friend will let you pull theirs to try it. But, your switch comment is a bit confusing. You do not want the run switch to "beep" continuity to negative in the run position.

But a quality helmet and boots. Run quality pre-mix! First thing... move the coolant bottle under the front plastics to keep it from self siphoning and overheating. Blew up my first Banshee after one ride because it ran itself out of coolant riding whoops by a train track and I didn't know. It's stock spot is terrible. The overflow tube still needs to be run in the same spot, just get the bottle lower. After you get it fixed spray starter fluid around the carb boots and reeds to make sure there's no air leaks. Learn jetting. This one single skill can make riding 2-strokes much better! Both for creating proper power and troubleshooting (if you work on your own stuff). Without knowing the full build nobody here can suggest a fuel. At a minimum, do a compression test and see what carbs you have when taking it apart. Doing an inventory of parts and taking pics of your port work and internals while it's apart could be helpful later. Spend a little extra on the crank or have a needle bearing (TZ) pressed on to replace the ball bearing on the clutch side at a minimum while it's apart. Have this done by somebody that knows what they are doing. The crank going out destroys motors. Starting with a good crank is like putting a good foundation under a house. If you want lower end power or less noise get a 4-stroke. Tons of money in a Banshee gets you more top end and more noise lol. Don't be afraid of rpm, there is more power at rpm, but I'm not sure lugging the motor would cause it to blow up unless there was another issue that would have showed up sooner or later. Bad crank seal, coolant level, big air leak, etc makes more sense. I ride wheelies slow enough the motor wants to stall in 1st and it doesn't have an issue with low rpm.

The clutch basket is part of the clutch. It holds the friction plates. If it gets grooves, it can keep the discs from separating "cleanly" when pulling the clutch handle. If you only notice it slightly when shifting into gear it still has some life. If it starts getting hard to shift or feels like your not pulling the clutch when you shift (but you are) you'll want to replace it before it breaks and does more damage.

It could be the port work... port timing... that allows this. I ran into something similar that required smaller domes than expected. FAST should also be able to start you off with a jetting recommendation to "tune from".

Tip... move the overflow to under the front plastics in the frame and it won't run out all the time. Harder to fill but you will not have to very often. You can even tap into the line and add a temp gauge while your at it.

I don't remember his last name. He went by Banchetta on here. He worked as a framing contractor and his family had lobster boats.

Try lowering your needle or leaning out your pilot jet. Research jetting tips to help you get the carbs "tuned" up. Learn about the pilot jet, needle height, and main jet. If you want to get a little more serious you can get into needle taper. Learning this will make owning a banshee much less frustrating especially if your doing modifications.

Shorter swing. It's worse in the whoops with shorter swing arm though.

If you don't have air blowing into the crank case or gear oil getting "sucked in" (bad seal in crank case) maybe try swapping plug wires and maybe plugs. They spark at the same time up and down stroke so it doesn't matter which cylinder they are on. Then try swapping carbs and check/swap reeds.

Whatever you get consider having a needle bearing put on it if it's using ball bearings. I have a hotrod crank but had it rebuilt before installing it with TZ Needle bearings. It's a 4 mil long rod. I had several dune trips and my track trips on it. I got tired of blowing up engines from the damn bearings failing.

Two stroke engines circulate fuel and the mix oil through the top and bottom. It's not like a 4-stroke. If it's a lot you're getting to much fuel somehow.. float height, lots of jumping and bumps, jetting, maybe even reeds. You may know about 2-stroke engines already but wanted to mention it just in case.