mstealth22

PM Sent

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I search the above and found not a single period, comma, or line break. A single, 300 word sentence. It is absolutely impossible to read. If you can't punctuate, at least limit what you type.

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payment sent on plastics.

PM sent on plastics.

Price on white\red plastics shipped to 98026?

What about the pipes?

Piling on here rather than starting the same topic. + I like pictures. I'm starting to setup a frame just for dunning as well. If I turn what I've read, and the above, into a list - I get the below. Does that check out? What am I missing? I hit the brackets I'm cutting with a little orange paint I had, just to visualize what I was doing. Might help for illustration purposes as well. Any recommendations for sub frame and welding in Washington? Cut: stock front brake brackets stock pipe front brackets near rear lower a-arm attachment stock pipe front brackets on outside of up\down frame tub for front motor mounts weird little tab with rubber above rear shock attachment headlight brackets (optional) Replace: the whole sub frame left to right support between upper shock attachment left to right support between rear lower a-arm attachment

As for idle issue I'm not sure I can be much help. ....but for some confirmation I'm running a 421 Serval and 35 PWKs. Same jetting, 48 pilot, CEL needle, 158 main, and mine idles well. I'm at <1000 feet. I did have to crank in the idle screws till you could see the slides actually crack open a bit, then I adjusted them down from there while running. When you say it idles bad, what does that mean?

$30 seems steep for two screws....But getting a flathead in to adjust the right side is always a pain. Anyone use these, are they big enough to use fingers? When I busted the plastic screws I just went with the brass ones. I just ordered a set anyway.

While I've only tried on two coils so far, I personally I don't think it is possible to remove the retaining clips and wires from a relatively used coil without them breaking. The locking tabs are only half the problem, there is also silicone(or some type of adhesive sealant) down in there and that seems to hold them even after you break or have the tabs pried out. Once you get them out, broken retainers or not, you have to clean all the goo down around the center electrode prong and then mash, twist, push the new wires till they make contact and go in. I got a set of the Taylor wires and while they are very nice, without some reasonable retaining system I couldn't see them staying put or keeping connectivity. I pushed, twisted, jammed, siliconed - gave up. I could get them to make connectivity but just a wiggle and the ohm meter wouldn't read anything. I bought the Nology and while I have no run time on it yet, you just crimped GM HEI style terminals on one end of the wires and click snap you're done. Much nicer so far.

pm sent on plastics. pictures wanted.

Fixed up the formatting a bit. Sorry, had to, to read through it. Time to part this one. Looking for any interest. All parts are in decent condition and any known issues have been noted. Terms: I will ship the smaller items USPS if i can fit them in a priority box. All larger items will be shipped UPS. All packages will be shipped with tracking. Please allow 1-2 days for packaging and shipping. The frame and plastic will be shipped shrink wrapped. All Shipping charges to be paid by the buyer. I will accept returns including shipping on all items if I inadvertantly mis-represented them. I will accept Paypal payments as gifts I will also accept them as regular payments without the 3% charge others charge. If any of the items are over priced please let me know. I will accept offers. Anyone that wants to pick parts up I am located in Birch Run, Michigan. My EBAY user name is SKEETNWORM have been a long time seller and started my ebay account by parting out a 1987 banshee a long time ago. Gave up when the fees went up. Individual Pics of any part available on request. In case of issues with my inbox my email is Skeetnworm24@hotmail.com Parts: CPI in-frame pipes with USFS spark arrestors, Bungs installed and capped for EGT probes - $350 Grand River Racing 6 Inch round housing swingarm - $275 Elka Stage 2 +R Front shocks valved for 180 pound rider on +2 arms Like New Condition - $515 FIRM +2 wide +1 forward A-arms these are Ball joint style arms not heims all tight Ricky Stator brand, Heavy duty tie rod ends - $250 TCS valved and resprung rear shock setup for 180 pound rider with 6 inch swingarm - $200 Chrome G-force rear axle +1.5 to +3.5 adjustable with 3 piece axle nut Slight Ding on the end where the cotter pin goes through axle threads are not damaged - $150 Tag 2 Handlebars - $40 Fullbore Plastic Not perfect they do have some scratches and a couple of cracks in non conspicuous spots Fronts - $125 Rears - $125 Powdercoated Silver Vein Frame Still decent coating with title - $MAKE OFFER expect frame Shipping to be around - $150-200 Powdercoated Silver Front Bumper - $35 Tusk Rear Axle Round Carrier - $150 CDI 1997-2006 worked perfect - $65 1997-2006 Wire Harness - $50 Throttle Assy with Skull Cover - $35 Front Hubs new all balls Bearings - $25 Front Brakes newer brake pads with extended stainless lines - $60 Rear Brakes newer brake pads with extended stainless line - $60 Taillight works - $15 Rear Hubs - $30 Front Spindles - $25 Cascade Exhaust Hangers - $Make Offer Kick Starter good detent - $50 Ignition Coil working condition - $15 Kill Switch working condition - $15 Fuel Petcock - $15 Footpegs powdercoated silver - $10 Steering Stem appears straight - $25 Tether - $10 Key Switch with relocation bracket - $20 Rear Rotor allen bolts were beat on but the usable - $Make Offer Rear Sprocket - $Make Offer

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