sandman101

I got curios also and googled it... to be more specific, “Urine cortisol-creatinine ratio” is not what you’re looking for. “Un-corrected compression ratio” proved to be much more helpful. 😂😂

It sounds like you still have the TORS units on the carbs like in his picture ☝️ I highly recommend a TORS delete kit (vitos makes a nice one). It gets rid of that clumsy adjustment that comes with TORS and puts idle adjustment screws in the holes you were talking about.

93 octane is rated up to approximately 160 psi. Maybe need at least a 50/50 mix with some 110 race fuel.

Well, I gave it a try and it’s been sitting over night with no sign of any leaks. Thanks for the advice.

There’s really nothing that could be wrong on a Banshee that would make it not worth buying simply because even perfect ones will always need wrenching. You really just need to take stock on everything it will need and decide if it’s more than you can chew and whether or not the price is fair.

I’ll give this a try. Would metal polish work? I have some of that. If I’m going to take it apart again I’ll switch the needle seats around and see if the other one starts leaking instead. And to answer ‘Sheego, it has all new fuel lines.

I have tried that. It’s not a fast leak like a float is stuck. It’s a slow leak that drips very consistently like something doesn’t quite seal up correctly. It is just in the right side carb.

Tighter than 22mm ?? Isn’t that the max? It shouldn’t be leaking when they are set that high.

I don’t know what else to do. I put brand new float needles and seats in, new gaskets, floats are in fact floating, and set to the max tolerance (22mm) and it’s still leaking fuel out the overflow tube. What else is there?

I don’t know what else to do. I put brand new float needles and seats in, new gaskets, floats are in fact floating, and set to the max tolerance (22mm) and it’s still leaking fuel out the overflow tube. What else is there?

Grr ftw = GRR (pipes) For The Win

Lol, I knew a guy who had a 600 Arctic Cat snowmobile that kept blowing head gaskets and one time he didn’t have a spare so he used a beer box and that was the last time he had to replace that gasket. 😄

I literally just found the exact same thing on my ‘88. I might just try a really thin coat of gasket maker between the two.

That’s kind of the tricky thing because there is actually a spindle housed inside swingarm that fits tight around the bolt and you can’t really get heat just to that part to expand it. You might be able to get somewhere just heating the bolt up real slow and then let it cool. Sometimes that’s enough to get it to break free.

Is it lose enough that it at least spins? Put a wrench on the right side and spin it a few times before you hit it. Also some penetrating oil. Next step is maybe heat. I just took mine out too and it was kinda stubborn. Good luck.

40:1 would maybe be a little safer but not being able to touch your pipes after it’s been running isn’t “too hot”... that’s normal.

Okay, that helps a lot. I’ll maybe just mix a splash of race with it too just to be safe. Is that on a stick crank?

Stock build yes, hot rods crank though.

What do you mean “will soon run out of adjustment”? If you can get the adjustment correct but it doesn’t stay are you tightening the locknut down enough?

Anyone?

I think thumb throttle is your safest bet just because you don’t run the risk of “whiskey throttling”. Anyone who grew up riding dirt bikes would maybe disagree though. I just know it took me a long time to get comfortable with a twist throttle when I started riding motorcycle and that’s without jumping or wheelies.

So I’m in the process of rebuilding my ‘88 and interested in a cool head and timing plate and/or cool head just to put a little more pep in its step. Thinking a ModQuad with 21cc domes. I’m at 650 ft ASL here in Silver Lake MI. Would that be safe with 93 pump? Big question I’m wondering though... If you add a timing plate to it at +4 do you need to up the octane along with what you compensated for the domes or do compression and timing work independently as far as required octane ratings. (Hope that phrasing makes sense). Just want to get more of what I hear these things are capable of, but kinda confused on how much I can run with what fuels. Any help would be appreciated.

Figured it out, the black wire that goes from the box to the coils had a splice that had come apart. Took a while to find it though. Thanks for your help guys.

A bad stator will have no resistance right? I started with checking the stator resistance and first thing was black to yellow and if I did it correctly it was reading just about zero ohms.

I was riding in the dunes this weekend, spun a donut at pretty high RPMs (not sure if that's the cause, just when it happened) and it spit and sputtered and quit. I pulled the plugs off and was not getting spark to either cylinder. I tried kicking it a few times and it would give a few thumps but nothing lasting more than a second. TORS has been deleted and the wires are still spliced well, bike is mostly stock. I figure its maybe a stator gone bad but where would be the best place to start tracking the problem. Also how can you test if the stator is what is bad. Any input would be great, Thanks.