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BansheeDFW

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About BansheeDFW

  • Birthday 05/28/1979

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    Male
  • Location
    Mansfield, Texas

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  1. I made my own. I know you can purchase a puller from Rocky Mountain that will work fine.
  2. I am little press for time getting my engine ready in time for the little sahara meet. I will pm you later when I get some free time and we can talk details. Thanks
  3. Received the billet rear reservoir and front res cap. Fast shipping and parts look great! Seller is GTG! Thanks
  4. Yes, In the steps there are notes pointing out if you are welding the crank when certain parts should be welded. In this case all the parts (center & inner and outer crank pins) are being welded after due to my TIG being down. Some stock crank pics would be good to add also. Is this going to get stickied?
  5. Yep, I have two other hemi one heads on my other shees. Got any 18cc domes by chance?
  6. I cannot send you a pm. "cannot receive any new messages" please send me your email address. Thanks
  7. Yeah Solidworks is the only way to go for 3D now. Jeez did you use Pro E or Mechanical Desktop? The walkthrough is pretty much complete enjoy!
  8. Ill take the stator cover and the case saver. pm with payment info sent.
  9. Yes that model is from solidworks. For 3D cam I like it the best. I also still use Autocad for 2D and and Mastercam for drawing and machining.
  10. Thanks! But unfortunately work keeps me busy enough I barely find the time to use all those machines, or my Banshee The rod kits are here. So I had a little problem with Parts Depot on ebay. Once notified of the problem they stepped up and overnight shipped me a kit no questions asked! ++++ So I will be adding some of the assembly steps this evening.
  11. Assembly Part 2 (Outer Halves) It is now time to install the connecting rods and outer crank webs. I left my wrist pin bearings in the package until its time to install the pistons. 8. Cut a shim of the correct thickness into approx. 1/3rd. This will be used to hold the crank pin in location while you press the outer webs in place. (This should be the same thickness shim you used to press crank pins into the inner webs. Both of mine were .015") Apply bearing grease to inside of the stator side crank pin to hold the shim in place. Note: Do not get grease on your interference press surfaces! 9. Support the stator side inner web using the large cut out in the crank web press plate. Three sides of the web should be supported by the press plate. The right and left sides, and the edge where you placed the shim underneath the crank pin. Note: Make sure the shim stays in place when positioning the crank and plate into the press. This is also where you really need additional cross bars spanning horizontally underneath the crank pin. If it is not supported well it will flex and the shim height will not be accurate! 10. Install the thrust washers, main rod bearing, and connecting rod onto the crank pin. The rod should face away from you and prevent contact with anything else. 11. Select the appropriate shim and place it on top of the crank pin. My stator side outer web required a .038" shim for correct spacing. 12. Press the stator side outer web partially onto the crank pin. One to two pumps on a manual press or just enough to firmly capture the web onto the crank pin. 13. Using some square 123 blocks or the bottom edge of V blocks placed next to both webs check the web alignment. (Rather than create a complicated fixture for this portion, I just aligned the webs using square blocks. Even with a fixture the crankshaft outer webs will more than likely need some smacking to true them perfectly anyway.) Note the gaps between the webs and blocks. 14. Using brass or lead lightly tap the webs until they are aligned with the blocks. Both sides should align against the blocks. 15. Continue to check the alignment as you press the web completely down against the shims. 16. Verify the web spacing is correct. An average 2.125" is correct (Measurement A in the service manual). Also verify the rod side clearance is within spec. 17. Press the clutch side outer web on the opposite end using the same process. (steps 8-16) 18. After pressing the clutch side web into place, verify that the overall width is correct. An average width of 6.141" is correct. (Measurement B in the service manual ) The crankshaft is now assembled and ready for truing. (If welding, the outer pins should be done after truing the crank) Checking the crankshaft prior to truing revealed approximately .002" of runout on each half. My TIG welder is in-op at the moment. I'm shooting to have this crank installed and the engine completed in time for the 2011 Little Sahara event. So I have decided to send the crank to Jim at Passion Racing Engines for the final truing and welding. Once I get it back I will update with checking the crank runout and installing the outer main bearings.
  12. Assembly Part 1 ( Inner Halves ) 1. Using the crank web press plate. Press the crank pin into the clutch side inner web. .015" shim Place the appropriate shim size under the pin. Should look like this. Verify press height. (perfect .015") 2. Using the same process, press the crank pin into stator side inner web. Note: Try to get your press cross bars as close together around the parts you are pressing together. This will prevent flexing and allow you to get the proper press height with your shim. Place the shim under the crank pin (.015" shim) Should look like this. Again verify the press depth on the crank pin. NOTE: If you are welding your crank, you may choose to weld the crank pins in place at this time. 3. Now using half of the crank fixture, press the first bearing onto the center shaft of the clutch side inner web. Note the location of the o ring groove. It should be on the top side of the bearing. This bearing should be pressed all the way down until it bottoms out on the web. 4. Place the labyrinth seal on top of the bearing. Note: If you have a single oring labyrinth seal the bevel should face down towards the clutch side inner web. (Some seals have 2 orings and are symmetrical). 5. Now partially press the second bearing onto the center shaft. This bearing will NOT be pressed all the way down! Note the bearing oring groove location is facing towards the labyrinth seal. Leave a gap between the labyrinth seal and the bearing. Approx. .030"-.060". Bearings installed. 6. Using the full crank fixture, press the stator side inner web onto the center shaft. Take your time here. This is the most crucial part of the crank assembly! You should have already taken these measurements and determined a shim to use for the correct press depth. Refer to the drawing in the Assembly Preparation portion if needed. I determined a .0215 shim would give me the correct spacing. If needed press with a larger shim height first, then check your inner web spacing to determine how much smaller your shim needs to be for correct spacing. Place the clutch side inner web in the lower half of the crank fixture with the center shaft pointing up. Next place your shim on top of the center shaft. Then place your stator side web into the top half of the crank fixture and lower in down until it contacts the center shaft. Make sure the shims stay centered on top of the shaft as you lower top fixture and web down into place. Now press the center section together until it bottoms out on the shims. The top bearing should make contact with the stator side web during this press and the remaining gap should tighten up to the correct height. Here you can see the shims on top of the center shaft after the press portion has been completed. These shims bottom out between the top half of the crank fixture and the center shaft. Remove the completed center section from the fixture. 7. Verify the the web spacing. I didn't get a picture of this but inside to inside web measurement should be 1.891" 8. Now check the crank phasing. I did not get a picture of the process I used. But have added a model to show how I checked my phasing. My crank phasing measurements were .002" different. This is within tolerance and equals approx 1/10th of a degree. The inner half is now complete. Note: If you are welding you may choose to weld the center shaft at this point.
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