Burt Reynolds

Crazy it works like that,kx500 carbs are 39mm lol

It depends on where you want your power,and your type of porting. Drag ported 421 I would probably run 38mm’s. Trail stock to 34,dune port in the middle. If your going for high rpm peak drag racing horsepower then I would think 36-38mm I’ve been out of the game for to long but the best port work I have ever got was from Chris Grissom racing.

13hp

Gnarly’s are the best trail/play pipes I’ve ever used,the end.

Yeah lol don’t!

I used a small piece of screen from a broken door and jb weld back in 2006 to fix a quarter sized hole in a banshee case. It’s still holding today.

30 seconds or so when it’s warm out. Longer when it’s cold

Passing after 60mph don’t mean much lol. Drz400 will go 90+ YZ250 lucky to get into the hi 70’s

What bikes are each of you running again?

Check for spark,if it has spark check the compression.

Everyone thinks they are sitting on a gold mine because they are discontinued. Prices are so high near me,you would be better off buying a modern 450.

Cheap store brand atf type f.

What type of porting? Stock crank? Stock head? Gimme the info and I can help.

You could also look into a ignition system that eliminates the flywheel.

Float needles/holes in floats/float height.

Are you holding wide open throttle during the compression test? Stockish bikes only need around 120-125. Not holding the throttle open could bring it down. You want to keep kicking with WOT till the gauge won’t go up anymore,even 20 kicks is fine. Also the engine should be cold. If you have low compression i wouldn’t mill the head to compensate,just asking for trouble. Unless the kicker feels very loose or it won’t start,I wouldn’t worry about testing compression on a fresh build till it is broken in. Your not going to get accurate numbers because the rings have not been seated after breakin 5 psi difference is still ok,as long as it doesn’t go further.

If it’s just the right pipe I would say crank seal,left then carb adjustment. If it’s both then: First thing I would check is see if you really need 110 octane. If you don’t the fuel will not burn right and could cause it. Is it idling/running good without any spots of hesitation?

Simple trick is to see if the idle goes down with the choke pulled. If it does your too lean. If it goes higher your to rich. if lean I would turn the air screws in 1/4 at a time,and maybe lower the clip on the needle 1 slot.(raising the needle) If your rich do the opposite. but seeing as how you just had the intakes off I would check for air leaks also

Cool head with the smallest pump gas domes,+4 timing and a good exhaust will REALLY wake it up.

Your 34’s will work. I have a drag ported 4mil with CPI in frames and run 33’s just fine. You might get more hp out of larger carbs though.

+1 on the clutch springs

Check the front alignment and the swing arm bearings and axle bearings.

I’ve always ran 32:1 for the first tank on a fresh motor then 40:1

I’ve got them off with a generic type puller before but it was a pain in the ass,best to just wait

290 is big,I always needed 270/280 with fmf pipes