Justintoxicated

I hate K&Ns but your options are pretty limited on Banshees due to limited space and the need for a high flow filter. I like the new reusable synthetic dry flow filters better, but they need to be pretty big to flow. Go with a K&N and outer wears if your stuck running pods, or really even if your using the airbox. Yes dust can and will get past it, but at least it's a 2-stroke with an easy rebuild.

Different LEDs and different housings and drivers... A lot of the ebay ones are not waterproof and use cheaper lenses and optics and lower binned LEDs, but not all of them.

Just FYI, in Cali when you get a replacement frame they simply rivet on a vin plate into the front of the frame. So once you get it back, there might be a simple solution like that to prevent it from happening again.

Just buy my friends 7 mil cub, it's in great shape with a perfect frame. It's been sitting for 3 years and he wants to sell it. Then you will just need to change the domes in your head so you can run 91 and you will be done.

Off topic!

Could be the amsoil. Castor 927 does not mix with synthetic. Never mix them together. I prefer synthetics to castor 927, although I love the smell of 927 If your jetted rich, 927 will leave a ton of carbon buildup on the pistons, and since I don't re-jet every time I ride I prefer synthetic. Amsoil Dominator is good stuff I used to run it all the time, but have been running Maxima Synthetic lately because I can get it a lot cheaper.

So I'm building some LED whips for fun and now I just need to figure out the best method to attach a flag to them. Should I be getting some cheap RMATV replacement flags and adding some metal eyelets to them? Or should I be looking for a flag that will fit over the whip then use some zipties or clamps or grommets to hold it in place? What I have so far. RMATV Flag + Eyelets + Zipties? https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1032/-/148995/Tusk-Orange-Replacement-Flag + http://www.harborfreight.com/103-piece-1-2-half-inch-grommet-installation-kit-30037.html Or this style flag? http://dwflags.com/store/view_product.php?product=01flag Thanks!

I can feel the love

I tried o'rielly they didnt' have one, need to check pepboys and auto zone still. I'll try the oven, i do believe you, I just don't have high hopes

I'll try the oven soon, but I don't see it working any differently than heating the aluminum case around the bearing with a torch... At this point I'm tempted to just give the cases and all the parts to the shop and tell them to finish it for me. 250R transmission sucks to disassemble compared to the banshee. I still need to buy a new counter-balancer and bearing, a few bolts that stripped for the motor mounts, and a bunch of other misc stuff... I think I might have been better off just selling the rolling chassis or just throwing the whole thing in the trash minus a few parts. I just don't have the time for it.

Yes I used an impact screwdriver (although a cheaper one than a snap on), didn't do shit, those screws are in there damn tight. I have removed red loctighted screws that came out easier before, and this DOES require heat to melt the loctight.... I might have to try drilling them out with one of those screw extractor bits, but I'm trying to contact some places to see what it's going to cost me. I don't want to spend a fortune on this thing as I just want to get it rebuilt like new then sell it. Whoever put sand in my engine is must die! Can you please link the proper blind bearing puller that can grip the needle bearing? I didn't measure the ID but I think it's about 2-3" I'm thinking a set like this would work, but it's $200 http://www.amazon.com/Internal-Extractor-Bearing-Puller-Remove/dp/B00KOBRQ1Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1433301765&sr=1-2&keywords=3%22+blind+bearing+puller Again I did heat the cases (not with an oven, with a torch) Heating in an oven would also heat up the bearing itself, you don't want to heat the bearing according to everything I read, just the case so it can expand and the bearing falls out. I watched several youtube videos showing people doing this, however it did not work for me, so I had to tap the bearings out with a socket on the inner races while the case around them was heated. Putting the case in the oven would not have don't shit if the torch didn't work IMO.

Don't have to smack it as hard as with a hammer and has a larger head to avoid smashing the crap out of my hand, so I switched to the sledge, it's what a friend suggested. Anyways neither one is hitting it hard enough to free up the screw head.

that's what I was using, tried a regular hammer on it before switching to the 4lb sledge. I'm afraid of twisting the heads off the screws at this point. The largest bit I have fits in the screw head about perfect, or it did before it started to deform.

ESR has them in stock too. Is the bearing option for $100 to have all the bearings installed?

They are blind bearings so a press isn't going to help, a BB puller will work for one of them, but shit that's another $110 for the tool, and I think a different kind of tool is needed for the one without the inner race. For the 3rd bearing I tried both heating around the screws and the screw itself different times. I torched the screw itself in case it was red loctighted in there. Neither helped they do not want to come out. I was able to remove all the other screws in the cases that were similar, but neither of these will budge. The way I heated around the screw was to heat up the buldge they go into on the opposite side of the case, than without getting too close to the screw a few passes around it. BTW getting a shop to remove a bearing on a press isn't cheap around here. Called around pricing what it would cost to get a bearing removed from a geo methro hub and it was about $80 (actually only one shop would do it, everyone else said they only do complete repairs), but after 2 months I finally talked to a friend who knew a friend and he did it for free. 2 months though!, next time I will just pay the $80. I know a shop that might be able to help that is a little more reasonable for ATV repairs. I have a feeling the screws might need to be drilled out though, and I'm starting to consider buying some new cases for $500 instead