traxman

As coils heat up during use thats when they fail. A hint start with the cheapest part and progress to the most expensive component if your going to guess. I learned about coils the hard way in our boat out in the lake. Drive for a few an then anchor for a while it was long trip home. Any way fire it up and run it till it's running real crappy, the pull the wires and check ohms.

I have some Chromed 1" wider Metaltech chromoly J-arms and tie rods with a extra balljoint. 375.00 shipped Will get more pictures if intrested. I also have some Chromed Power Pro inframe pipes with quite silencers. They were on my wifes stock bike and didn't suite her riding style. 375.00 shipped. Will post other pictures If some one is intrested. This picture is from the last day they were on the bike. The silencers came unfinished and have been polished since.

The sheets don't have the rockets pipes but you can compare the cpi's and shearers. The motor is a 370 on gas with 34 pjs, don't know any other specifics of the motor other than it was ported. I always been impressed with Fatty's torque #s even on a 460cc 10mill alky bike they peformed great. That 460cc gave alot of bigger bikes a run for their money. TORQUE HP

Banshee oem stators are 70 watts.

I like the orange/white combo and the orange/black combo. I know it's not a banshee but it's the only heap I have running right now. I'm currently doing my banshee with the same orange and black with some dark candy maroon pinstriping... Oh and lots of chrome of course.

Wife's grill on her 421.. Thanks for the great looking grill. She loves it, and it goes with the rest of the hisbiscus flowers on her bike.... Thanks savage.

Bansheesandrider is correct the alternator rectifies the current before it leaves, hence the entire system is DC. I was only bringing to someones attention so that maybe if bansheehq wanted to change instructions that go against the manufacturers instructions they had the option. Usually electronics burn out prematurely due to improper installation but obviously this is not the case sense you've been running your set-up for two years.

It's pretty hard to misread Black Wire: Do not connect to frame ground. I'm not saying it won't work but as an electrician you generally keep your ac and dc grounding seperated in most applications. Was just wondering why the tech doc said to bond them when the instructions say to keep them seperate??? I'll keep them seperate and tell you if I have any luck.

In the Technical Docs Dc conversion #12 and #16 both refer to connecting the negative on the dc side of the system (black from regulator/rectifier and battery)to the frame for a ground. It says specifically not to do this on trailtech's sight in the very last sentence in the instructions. Basically, what I understand is that the dc negative is used for dc lighting and any other dc loads and is kept floating (seperate from the frame). On the other hand, the black from the stator, cdi, and coil need to be grounded to the frame and electrically connected in order for the ignition system to opperate correctly. This would also be the ground to use for the kill switch. What's your take on this??

Thanks for responding I was begining to think no one knew. I currently run Brad Pen 10-40w motor oil, but was considering atf fluid. How much difference does the oil make??

I was just curious for an idea I have.

They will work fine as far as size or bore.. I can't beat a 10 mill cub but I run neck and neck with him on a 7mill big bore stock cylinders with fmf fatties. He has an override and I don't and from what I can tell I have quite a bit more grunt from using the fmfs (and probably the port timing). A friend I know had a 10 stock cylinder on alky and it was fast as hell also. He put drag pipes on and it got quicker on the flats but at the hill the fmfs performed better and were quicker according to the guys he raced. He could run with much bigger bikes. (14 and 18mills) I don't know how they perform on anything bigger than a 460cc motor or something with the port layout of a cub. But in a month or so I can tell you. I going to try them on a 496cc super cub motor for the hell of it.

Rubberneck if your 421cub runs half way decent then you would own this 3wheeler. I had Ftz pilot cylinder (390cc) honda 250r motor with all their goodies, and although it was high compression and very reliable it wasn't very fast. I know that Ftz is a flat track company so they look for a long torquey power band. When I finally pulled my cylinder it was hogged but the port timing was only a couple degrees over stock. My bike weighed less than the banshees and was fast as hell out of the hole but a well built 350 banshee could reel me in by the top of the hill. And when I faced off with another motor by a reputable engine builder it was embarrasing how fast they could run away. My current 510cc honda 250r would easily half hill my ftz motor. Hell my dads 385 play port 4mill banshee on pump gas with both bike in a second rolling start would absolutely run away from my bro-in-law's built cr 500 motorcycle, and he could beat most KX500's all day long. (not sure on how built they were?)