AKheathen

There's a plastic bonding agent, just like with bare metal. Also a flex additive. Something that gets highly bent and beaten like a 4wheeler is always best just to get different color plastic. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

yes. not sure which terrebone, or the elevation, but probably in the 280-310 range. 27.5 pilot. if it hesitates at wot, go larger in size. if it sputters go smaller.

thats nothing but the mounting pad, from what i can see. should not effect the electrical connection. its only purpose is to not let the circuit ground out. go over the mounting bolts and surfaces, then the other connections. pay special attention to the cable retainer on the back, as that is the engine ground. last resort, strip some of that green wire back and see if it is dark or discolored.

the second vid looks fine

woods/trail port, and pro circuit pipes. everyone looks just at hp. dont forget hp is just a factor if rpm on torque. torque is where your power comes from. food for thought. 496 big block. 225hp, can pull 10k at 80mph up the mountain. 300hp 4banger 2.0. can pull 1k at 60 on flat ground. the most powerful on road tractors are 625hp.... at around 2k, so thats 1200-1600 torque, pulling 80,000lbs...

i dont know what you are looking at, but im looking at thumbnail quality pictures that dont show shit.

this is what the arrows are for. you get your free-play in the clutch arm at the adjuster, then you pull the cable in to the arrows.

the choke side carb aso has the choke jet in the bowl, and the other is not drilled, just a blind hole. make sure not to mix them up, or your choke wont pull any fuel.

if you loose power going from 100 down to 92, something is seriously wrong. it should be the other way around. you dont gain power with octane. you build power that requires higher octane to keep from detonating the top end. first thing is to see if there is a spacer plate under the cylinders (this guy sounds like its likely) or if it has relieved domes, which is proper "4mill dome" confuguration. you will need to know this before buying domes. im a bit rusty, but i recall 24cc domes to be fine for "pump gas"

4mill serval and pro circuit pipes. youll get back all that mid range grunt the pokers have, and keep a lot of the top end.

fix that ground!! that being said, yes, you always take a zero reading on your meter and subtract that from your readings. usually, if its fairly high, like half an ohm or more, its a good sign your battery is almost dead in the meter, but some meters just read high with a fresh battery. the cap can still work, even though it reads bad, but usually has a drop out at idle. it still needs to be replaced, as it will keep burning out the break in the cap till it does become a problem for that cylinder.

wtf, over..... this went nowhere fast. waiting for the answer about letting the clutch out. also, does it lunge foreward when you go into gear, but the clutch is pulled in?

same thing for a lot of 90s imports and other caliper integrated park brakes, so keep that in mind if you run into a brake job ans see dowell holes or slots in the piston.

the arrows are ONLY for centering the clutch cable in the freeplay. the actual clutch adjustment is to set the free play in the lever, no matter what clutch you have.