Chariot Performance

If you need more than yes it will definitely help.

Adrenaline Performance has been making these for years and they have worked great on bikes with no issues. They wanted us to make them and offer them so we are.

You can crank the spring down as well as have the spacer. On a lot of bikes with extended swingarm especially you can crank the spring enough so you need the little extra this gives.

We have them listed on ebay and they install easily. Jerry http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=281667994113

We have them listed on ebay. Two listings for the different carb/boots.

We keep the bushings a little loose so no chance of seizing up.

We have new parts listed on ebay but links are not working (at least for me right now). We have new designed Keihin Bowls with rigid overflow tubes (new) and custom larger nuts. We have a shock spacer for the rear shock that is 7/8 inches thick compressing the rear spring. One of our dealers has been making these for years and wanted us to start making them. They add that little extra that you need even with other modifications. We have new style thumb throttles for up to 41 carbs. The originals are up to 49 carb but the new ones are best if you are 41 or under because of the leverage. Even better thumb relief with the 41 throttles. The spacers are not listed yet. I will add links here when I get it figured out. Jerry http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chariot-TWO-Ultra-Keihin-Carb-billet-Bowls-Custom-nut-overflow-tube-Banshee-/251922293833?hash=item3aa7bd2449&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHARIOT-Banshee-up-to-41-carb-NO-TPS-thumb-throttle-ALL-Chrome-/281663842923?hash=item4194792a6b

We have the nuts in and coated and ready to go out. Please contact me through ebay if you purchased there. If you purchased here leave me a message here. All I can do is apologize for the unacceptable long delay an d promise to not let it happen again. Jerry

We will have extras.

Thanks to KaN I have some nuts. They are on the way to the coater for conversion coating and that takes about a week. They will be sent out after that. Jerry

We have nuts in the mail coming to us from KAN. We will send them out for coating and then shipping out to customers. Jerry

Unfortunately the only thing I can do right now is offer money back on the covers. We always had the nut made outsourced because it is a cnc lathe job and we only have mills. We lost that source and have tried to get the precision on our mills but we can not get as close as I want. No luck finding a nother lathe shop yet. Jerry

I don't know about the car heads and I may be wrong on my thoughts with our heads but that is just what I believe.

I will do my best to answer here. We do make our holes a little bit smaller for our studs and if you have a stud that is not very straight you may need to turn it a bit or ream a hole on the head. With studs which are seated straight there should not be any issue. There may be in some cases for sure but that won't be the norm. Now why I make the holes a little smaller/tighter than others is this; the benefit outweighs the trouble some may have putting the head on. With all the high compression motors out there and so many not tuned real well head lifting is a problem for many people. It does not take a long time for lifting and slight moving to wear through the orings. Just lifting and not moving so much will help. It would take 1 minuite to put a slightly larger drill in my cnc to make the holes larger on each run but I believe the tighter fit is better. For those questioning the Suzuki studs comment; that used to be very common among builders. Some of them still use them and know exactly what ones to use. I have three shop banshees and all three of them uses Suzuki studs for the heads. Of course there are heads made by others that just slip on but at what cost? This is just my preference even though I have to answer concerns every now and then.

I don't know that we got to the point in the discussion where I offered a new head. I would give him one for sure but he was charged $300 by his machinist to do the combustion chambers. I believe you can get a similar head for $300 machined from TDR.

To rjdgriff You are right, it is a foolish pissing match. It got the best of me unfortunately. On the covers I will do my best to make it right. The first couple sold without a nut before I realized I was out. I left them on ebay because I thought I had a dealer who had some nuts I could get back and send in a couple days but that was not the case. I thought I could then get some made in a couple weeks but was not able to free up a machine. I took the listings down till I can get the nuts made. The 1/2 dozen that shipped without will get the nuts late and with a healthy refund in the box. They of course can return the cover for a full refund plus shipping but they all were understanding. The gentleman who started this thread was just looking out for his friend and that is understandable. The only problem with this thread was that the other gentleman always chimes in unrelated just to say something bad about us and finally I responded. Everyone knows who purchases my product that they can get a full refund for any part returned even if on the bike. Almost no questions asked. I send out free replacements even when it is not may fault. It should be easy enough for anyone to tell that on this superduty head I cannot refund the purchase $200 and $300 for labor he put into it just because he shows me a picture that looks like a scratch. Who would do that on someone's word? The best I can do in that situation is offer him a good discount on a future purchase just so he is a happy or happier customer. Now if he were to actually show me that this scratch in the picture was actually a fissure in the material, however unlikely it seems, then I would definitely refund his money and a fair amount of his labor cost. Simply put, I always do that. I can guarantee that no customer has ever contacted me with an issue that I did not take care of. This claim on the other hand is a little too much to accept just on his word and a picture. I believe he is an honest person and sincerely believes this is a fissure but that simply is not enough in this case. Jerry

What is that picture of above? Our superduty head does not use domes. You machine the combustion chamber into the head shell itself. You are showing a removable dome here?

Just so I have it straight. You state that every other head does not work-hold the compression on this motor. This one is not doing the trick so you think it is from that scratch/circle or whatever it is. Although it has not moved or opened up into a gap. Do you believe that the seal from the head to cylinder top is tighter than that scratch? You can always tell where compression blows by an oring into the coolant. There is black streaks on the aluminum even with the coolant there. If there is blowby through this claimed crack you would see the same black streaks on the coolant side of the head-the other side of the crack. Don't suppose we will see any pictures of that? Might see pictures of blow-by past the orings though. All you have to do is show the pictures-right?

Looking at the picture and just wondering how you can believe that is a plug when the marks do not come together at the end. That's right you are gonna post pictures of this thing moving. Still waiting.

Do you need mapquest?

I want to see this so called plug movement that you claim. That is what I want to see. So you want to bounce my head off something? Give it a shot, my address is 6021 Dryden rd, Dryden, Michigan.

You can nit pick at what I said and make it seem how you want. Oem does not refer to oem banshee but any oem Suzuki/Yamaha/Honda that is the correct length. You say it is now leaking so I expect to see this so called plug to be moved, right? Let's see some pictures of this. This whole thing started because you for no good reason in a thread not about my products said that I make products out of scrap aluminum. I guess I am supposed to just let that go?

Let me get this correct trickedcarbine. You have our superduty head which is machined out of solid aluminum. You are responsible for the combustion area being cut. You are now claiming that the head does not seal. So you are saying a 1 1/2" thick block of aluminum on top of your cylinders does not seal and it is the head and not the 3/8" thick cast walls of a cylinder? How this can possibly be the head is a mystery to me. It sounds to me like this foundry flaw according to you must have opened up or moved or something. Show me that and I will give you $500.00. Fat chance I will be running to the ATM any time soon, huh?

Let me bring up your complaint again "trickedcarbine". You bought a superduty head from us which you have to cut the combustion chamber yourself. You were mad because you could not find someone to cut it (my fault I guess). You were mad because the material was hard and you wanted soft aluminum. Makes sense, a head designed for Dan Hull's 290 horse supercub turbo should be made out of soft aluminum like other heads are. Who needs the strength, right? You were mad because the place you had cut it charged too much (again my fault I guess). You were mad because you found a line in the cut aluminum and said I took what would account for 2 hours of machine time to make a plug and remachine a hole in a super duty head made for super high horse motors and press it into the combustion area? You really believed I was that big of an idiot. Then you decided that the head was made out of scrap aluminum. You were upset because the head had a tight fit on the studs. Let me explain in elementary terms why a "SUPERDUTY" head made for 290 horsepower turbo small bore banshees running on alcohol may need a head that won't move around like every other head did. My explanation is that would be bad. Maybe you do not agree. Every other head lifted and moved around on that 290 horse bike but mine. Of course you will tell me how you are the banshee expert and you probably are faster than Dan Hull and know more etc etc etc. In my listing for the superduty head I specifically state that if you don't know you need that head than you do not. My suggestion to you is to sell your banshee and buy a zooter. I hear they are easier to work on for the mechanically challenged. So go ahead and keep up your bashing. The good thing is my products speak for themselves and don't need defending. This little rant was just a little fun!

You are simply ridiculous. You outright said I use scrap metal for my parts and it was in a thread that had nothing to do with my parts. You take every opportunity to make up some bs about our parts. Do we have some issues? Of course every manufacturer has issues at times. Do we have a lot of issues, absolutely not! If I believe the customer is pissed, even if they are wrong, I try to make it right and usually money does the trick. Do I buy loyalty, no! Do I always stick do my best to make the customer happy, yes. Every once in a while you get someone who decides it is worth their time to berate my products because they are incompetent working on a banshee. I even try to make them happy. The proof is the effort I put in trying to make you happy. You would have nothing of it. You would rather just spend your time on a forum throwing crap around. Bottom line with my is if you are not happy with may part I do everything to make you happy. There are a couple people,you, who don't want to be made happy. You would rather be sad and angry. Why don't you bring up your conclusion on the scrap aluminum again and see how it flies with the listeners.