RadarRacing

Check star/eccentric adjustment 1st thing and everything else under the clutch cover, then move on to all forks , then like stated look at all other parts drum,dogs etc.

"Castor" , 927 , Benol, blendzall, klotz super techniplate will all mix and work fine on alcohol.

Yes it will.

Just like sleeper06 said. Any good sealant. Auto parts store grey will be fine if you dont have cycle stuff.

Dam 1 week after all you guys chain advice he is parting it out. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/186782-full-partout-lsr-vforce-cpi/

The rating on most of those chains is plenty strong for almost any normal drag bike. The driveline one is on at least a few 10 mil DMs , the DID, EK, RK have many users and hold up fine when the frame, motor, and swingarm are solid. FAST sells a bulk chain by the foot that is good and not much money per foot. Some of the strongest chains can be the first to break due to shock. Get something 7800lb or more and keep it oiled well. I have broke a chain but only when the motor was tweaking and you could feel the chain jerk under a hard load when it got sandy. That wasnt the chains fault.

The easiest way to just keep the front end down like said for being consistent is adding air to tires or less tire. It wont however make it faster. To consistently be quicker and keep the front down , you need a longer swingarm. A +10 can still be quick with a bar or without. A stock frame 397 cub with shearer inframes went 3.89 with no bar, +10 swingarm a couple years ago.

That lucas oil is great oil. I ran it on a few bikes for years and thousands of miles. They were always clean inside and it lubed everything well. Klotz, motul,lucas, 927, benol, blendzall all the good oils lube well. None are bad.

For a rider/ duner, they are just fine and fun tires to slide and climb. If you are getting whooped racing or hill shootin, the straight paddles from skat trak provide much more forward thrust.

Yeah. I meant 14/41. Lol. Same as 15/44.

Mattoon or redline have about the best deals goin on a basket. I would replace it.

To lean out off idle to mid throttle position on the needle you need to (raise the clip which lowers the needle)

Just throw it in. It will mix and not hurt anything. I hate the crap myself. Any oil other than atf is what I prefer. Rotella truck oil keeps my shift forks looking much better than atf and much less creeping when the clutch is hot.

Sounds like you have dome issues if you had it running great before. We see quite a few posts about athena cyls and problems. Some of that in my opinion is the person buying these cyls on ebay or wherever is wanting to save a buck and will also "save a buck" and throw some new or used carbs , domes, parts of unknown trusted origin in their bike. Before putting the motor together and starting it, you should know the squish clearance and check for leaks. I am guessing your compression tester needs thrown in the trash and if your squish is between .042 and .054 with your OLD DOMES then use them and quit taking advice from the morons that give engine building advice on facebook pages.

The ball bearing one is just fine. Easy adjustments by taking ballbearings out or adding. A Gigot brand slingshot holds a ridiculous amount of power with just a stock style 7 plate setup.