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yamaha04

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Everything posted by yamaha04

  1. I’m 98% sure I dumped 250ml into a can and got 10L of 94 octane so 40:1. but whenI filled up the bike last night it honestly looks like straight gas. Again I’m very sure I mixed it. The can is marked. Anyone else notice minimal colour difference. This is only my second tank using klotz. Always used yamalube 2R and you can defiantly tell that was mixed
  2. Well I tore the intakes back off to put some other gasket material in there between the boots and reed cage. It was Fel-Pro rubber fiber that I know is ok for gas. Put it back together leaks like crazy. Reed cages are flat and smooth. OEM intake boots from 2004. This just goes to show how Important a leak down test is. I would have never guessed in a million years how much these can leak after all new gaskets. I put a flat edge across the boot and it’s warped abit so it’s not sealing. Just bending Think it’s time for some new boots. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I made some intake gaskets to seal between the rubber boot and reeds. Used Fel-Pro 1/16” rubberized cork I think. I’m not sure what exactly the material is. I found it in my tool box It’s Fel-pro for sure. Anyone help me out. It passed the leak down at 8psi. Held for 3 hours. But I’m worried about the what gas might do. Should I order some different material to make new ones. Everything takes forever to order. Was 2 weeks waiting to get all my seals for the bottom end. I know I can get some gasket material down at the auto parts store in the AM. Here’s a pic of the material. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Update. Had to yamaBond the new reed gaskets and I made two more to go between the reeds and OEM Intake. Might be time to upgrade. It’s been holding 8psi for around 3 hours now. Should be good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Just pulled them off. Oring is hard as a rock. I guess that’s what you get after too many years sitting in a box.
  6. Trying to do a leak down test on my Fresh rebuild. My OEM I take boots are leaking between the reeds and boot. I would guess the rubber Oring that is moulded in the OEM boot is done. Has anyone ever put another reed gasket on that side So instead of 2 gaskets like factory. There would be 4 on both sides of the reeds. This would solve my issue I think
  7. What side was the cylinder on. Might have had a crank seal sucking air. Or tranny fluid. Depending on the side
  8. Ahh well. They look identical. Bought At the same time from Jeff at fast so maybe your right. If I take a flat edge across the dome and measure down is that accurate enough. Guess it really doesnt matter tho. from searching that is an ok squish so I should be able to use either set right ?? If I use the 20cc. Will I have to change timing.
  9. Hey guys just getting my motor back together after many years tore down. Here the details. stock stroke hotrods crank. 65mm wiseco prolites noss head. Noss domes from F.a.s.t 21cc and 20 adjustable timing Usually set to +4 T5’s so I measure my squish. The proper way. Solider parallel Of pin out to the edge. I got .0485 on both sides with the 21cc so I put the 20cc domes in and got about the same. .049 shouldn’t the squish change with different domes ? I won’t know what compression is till I get my new clutch basket. My ring end gap was .010 acrossed the board without touching the rings just right out of the box. My goal is for a long lasting reliable motor. I would like to run 93-94 octane. That’s about the best I can get at the pump. Might be able to get some airplane fuel aswell but haven’t locked that down yet.
  10. OEM water pump bearing. Has plastic inside the the outer race that looks like it holds the bearings. Other side is open I would guess the open side goes towards the tranny fluid. ?? Makes sense to me. Lol.
  11. I don’t know the rules but my T5’s with the hush kit are very quiet and it’s spark arrested. There must be some decibel rule. If so I would say the hush kit would be every bit as quiet as a stock yz250 or yfz450 ?
  12. Oh. One more thing I over looked on my banshee after it sat for 4-5 maybe 6 years. When I parked it I had no intentions of letting it sit that long and I never drained the carb bowls. They got nasty. On one of the bowls. I forget what one there is a choke circuit that you can’t really clean. I had mine in an ultrasonic wash twice. Still didn’t really clean them. Still hard to start if it had been sitting for a week or two. It turned out to be a clogged choke circuit down in the carb bowl. New bowl solved this.
  13. What’s the elevation above sea level where you live/ride. And what the temp. what pilot jet does it have. If it’s a 25. Jump up to 27.5 secondly and I’m no expert but I don’t believe 120 psi coming off a compressor. constant pressure is the same as the pulses coming from the motor. Your compression tester has to hold each and every pulse of pressure building up till it stops. At 60 psi I’m not even sure it would run. But if never had a motor test that low so I don’t know for sure. Try another tester. Investigate the pilot jet
  14. maybe I used the wrong term. I said guys are saying they are shit. I am sorry. What I should have said is. I have been Searching and reading every post about billet baskets. Everyone is raving about the Mattoon. Redline. And chariot basket in no particular order. Sheerider11 I think was saying the brass bushing in the Hinson baskets are soft and garbage. Based on the 5 or so post and 20-30 comments within those posts. Cost us Canadians 400$ to get a Hinson/Barnett basket from a big box store. I just ordered a chariot basket 240$CAnadian with priority shipping 56$ Canadain. And the total was 306$ or something like that. So. In my eyes I’m supporting a site sponsor. And saving myself 100$ Compared to Hinson for a superior product based on user reviews. Also. I just got refunded 10$US for shipping jerry said so thank you Chariot. The kids will be happy Dad has his bike running to go for a ride since there isn’t anything else to do with this covid shit going one
  15. Yes I do not mind the cost at all. Big box stores like fortnine are asking upwards of 400$ Canadian for a name brand basket that guys are reviewing on here saying they are shit. So chariot and redline in my eyes both have a great price point. I emailed redline this morning about shipping options and cost. Haven’t herd anything back yet. Thinking I will email chariot now. Does he/she frequent BHq like he use to back a few years ago still ?? Been so long out of the game. Miss this place. My boys are 8-5 and 4 so I gotta get the ol banshee back up and running so we can go as a family.
  16. Need a new clutch basket. I have about 6mm of play if I grab the gear by hand and turn it on he basket. Related I have been chasing an odd knock. I’ve been through the crank once. Then replaced it. Bored cylinders twice thinking it was piston slap. Or bad bore job. Finally after years of the bike being tore apart because of a crank seal on the tranny side I now have some time to fix it and have stubbled acrossed the loose gear. This has got to be it. I can easily move the gear by hand. Anyway. Did some searching. Apparently magnum makes a good affordable basket. Does anyone know of some places in Canada to order this from. Been out of the banshee game for probably 6 years. The exchange rate is killing me. Same with shipping. Literally cost me 75$ Canadian to get 4 exhaust springs /orings. And a pro design Oring kit for my cool head from RMATV because I couldn’t source one online in Canada and everything is closed now due to covid -19.
  17. Looking for a price on a topend kit. WSM 65MM stock stroke Forged pistons. and a Cool head Oring kit. i live in Ontario Canada so a price to ship there is appreciated
  18. The jim at passion years ago was the last guy to touch them. pistons purchased through him aswell at the same time.
  19. Tiny jet in the left carb bowl that feeds the choke circuit can get clogged and be very very hard to start.
  20. I can move both pistons around fairly freely in the bore. I also questioned the basket. I can grab it and turn it slightly before the gear moves but this takes abit of force
  21. So if you guys measure a bore at 64.745mm then you would probably go with a 64.75mm piston eh. I don't really want to bore to 65 if I don't have too. Just hone for clearance. But I also don't want to order pistons and have them measure in smaller so in that regard the 65mm would be the best bet. Has anyone measured a set of new pistons that is smaller and out of tolerance. The way I see it is the pistons should be atleast the number on the box. I get it doesn't mean anything but still.
  22. Jim was a hell of a guy. 300$. Piston./bore and clean up exhaust port. Wish that deal was still around. Anyway thanks a lot for the help guys. I will get the 65mm pistons and have them fit nice and tight. 2-3thou. Hard to believe these ones I have now still hold 150psi. Same as when I built it years ago. Maybe like 5-6-7 years ago. With 8 thousands of clearance. probably should have tore it back down and checked things out when I herd the slap after start up but I figured it was fresh and should be fine. ..
  23. Maybe this is why passions racing isn't in the game anymore. If what I am seeing is right they bored the cylinders to 64.75 before they measured the pistons ??????
  24. Thanks guys. This brings me to my next question. my bore size indicates the piston I need is 64.75. And that's the number on the pistons I have so do i order the same and hope it's bigger or get the 65.00 and bore to the pistons with 2-3 thou. Tolerance. That seems stupid to me. The pistons should be closer in size to what they listed as. Btw All 3 different guy's measured the pistons at wrist pin level. From intake to exhaust.
  25. tore motor down due to crank seal. Though I would have my cylinders checked Both ran at 150psi but iv had a very slight knock at idle since I put this motor together years ago. Two different machine shops. And a relative that is a machinist All checked them with the same result. Bore measures. 2.549in. 64.745mm. And pistons measure 2.541in 64.541mm. The pistons are Wiesco prolites and are stamped 513M06475. This explains my slight knock due to piston slap. But how can this happen. Both cylinders I can see the hone marks on. They look brand new to be honest. They measure straight and true. The pistons look new also. I can see the machining marks on them still. This entire rebuild came from passions race engines back in the day when they sold a top end kit for 300$ included Boring. Anyway the issue is. Cylinders seem to be bored to 64.75mm. The the pistons are stamped the same. But they measure 64.541mm.
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