SlowerThanYou

I can't share the photobucket crap anymore. Maybe I can explain it to you if you have a question.

I have a very strong opinion on this & I argue with Angel about this pretty often. Weight isn't everything, here's our example. 443 cub on race gas, stock frame (320 lbs.) & a 220 lb. rider. It was pulling low 1.30s & running 84 mph in 300'. That really isn't shit anymore, but back in the day it was making noise. Anyway, I don't get hooked on the weight deal, but it's important. I put the most emphasis on tuning #1, the proper rider (not just the lightest), maintenance & weight.

This thread was intended to bring light to a subject (clutch tuning) that was pretty much not being used in the Quad world when the thread was started! Keep your open mind about people doing things differently, nothing wrong with that. IMO, the key in this thread has always been the baseline, 1st post & should be the same for anyone! Now, you mention pulling base pressure & watch your 60's improve, then start adding or taking away arm weight. I hope that's not what people are taking away from the thread. I try & stress baseline 1st, then make changes from there with adding or subtracting base pressure. I'm sure, I've mentioned that I think most run too much base pressure. You mention a ? about slipping the clutch on shifts. It works & it's a very fine line. The key in a small or larger motor is staying around the peak power during the run. The window gets bigger usually with the larger motor. I can't remember if I mentioned it in this thread or another, an example of or rpm window of our 443 cub. It was a very narrow rpm window.

Slipping badly, needs more base pressure/more spring. The 60' time really sucked for the ET it was running, but was really making up for it between 60' & 330'. It was running deep into the 3.80s in 330'. We have been 3.60 in 300' on sand. The asphalt set-up is currently running a 2.0 final gear ratio & probably needs a 1.80 - 1.90 final ratio. It gets pretty tricky to make that ratio & the clutch right for 1/4 mile. Angel has done a great job with the DMX. He has totally changed the timing, dome set-up, some huge lectrons & changed back cone on the pipes. Plus, a bunch of smaller changes. We plan on changing out the beefy/heavy rods that K&T wanted in the motor. Actually, that whole K&T motor set-up has been redone by Angel.

DMX, 2nd run on asphalt goes 9.92 driving thru the clutch badly. We tried to detune it, because Angel is not licensed and only legal to run 10.00. Well, it went 9.84 driving thru the clutch again. Need to do some clutch tuning & a final gear change.

Nice! I like it, brand new BHQ Member & 1st post is in this thread. I don't know what you consider more life out of the clutch is? This is our definition of useful life & it has been mentioned before. Peak performance for heads up racing we get about 100 runs. After that we use the clutch for Bracket/Index Racing for another 100 runs. After that we retire the frictions, they start breaking. The steel/aluminum plates can usually get used longer with very thorough inspections. This was our results & I consider our clutch management program one of the best. Never bead blasted the steels, but don't see why it wouldn't work. As for cryo treatments, didn't see a difference on the steel plates. All of our aluminum plates were cryo treated & hard coated. I consider this a must for the aluminum plates.

No shit, LOL! Not my headache anymore, the boys do their own tuning.

Angel is riding, but you never know? We are having problems getting it to 60' on sand. Why not get it worked out on the asphalt. It worked with the 7mm, so I figured we would give it a try. It has been 3.60 @ 92 mph in 300', but have a hard time getting it to 60'.

I'm still alive & the DMX is also. It's going into our asphalt chassis for some 1/8 mile & if we are lucky 1/4 mile testing. This is going to happen in early Sept. hope to post up some results shortly after.

I forgot to add, I've been 1.31 in 60' on both asphalt & sand @ 230+ lbs. & a heavy quad with that 14" over arm.

12" - 14" over with your weight you will have plenty of hook. Tedder mainly runs a 12 over & I run a 14 over. We ran a 8 over initially, not the way to go!

I wish it was that easy, LOL! It takes a bunch of work to launch quickly with a 2.11 or 2.12 ratio. Mainly clutch tuning, but all other tuning factors have to be spot on also. Here's the best advice I can give. Front sprockets are the cheapest to buy. 18 or 19 tooth flip a coin neither will be optimum for the 41 rear. Anyway around it, it's going to be a compromise of launch or mph. I'll always lean toward the launch; lowest ET wins races, period. 18/41 (2.28 ratio) will minimize a possible bog/give a decent launch. 19/41 (2.16 ratio) good possibility of a bog/slow launch, but have some mph. For a rookie asphalt member I would start with the 2.28 ratio. If you think your better than average rider & can slip the clutch good with your left hand. Then go with the 2.16 ratio. The final tidbit: MINIMUM final gearing needs to put the motor at it's PEAK HP RPM @ finish line in the top gear your using for the set distance. Example: If your motor makes peak power @ 9,700, you minimally want to cross the 1/8 mile @ 9,700 in 5th gear. Real world, MOST motors/bikes are faster being final geared above that peak HP RPM.

We have mostly ran the Banshee double outlet Pingel. Only ran a guzzler within last 4 years because it came with the tank.

With big bowls, pingle & proper venting should be no problem for 1/8 mile on gas or alky. We ran our 443 Cub 1/4 mile with no pump on gas & alky. We have ran all the distances out to about a mile. The farther you go, you need less timing & more fuel.

We ran very close to that with or stock cylinder gas 417 & it was our go to gear for 443 gas cub.