95blazer

This is a clean 1992 Yamaha Banshee. It was completely rebuilt in the summer of 2004. The list of goodies consists of: Pro-circuit pipes and stainless silencers, flywheel lightened and head milled by Duncan Racing, V-Force reeds, Ricky Stator 200 watt stator with adjustable timing plate, urethane intakes, Pro-flow kit with K&N filter, twist throttle, Alba Pro-Comp front suspension with Elka Dune Edition Dual-Rate shocks, Denton steering stabilizer, Works Suspension rear shock with remote reservoir, ITP sand stars in the rear and razors up front, aluminum wheels, Lazer Star lights with handlebar clamp, clear Radflo coolant lines, sandblasted cylinders and head, orange and black plastics, Gun Metal Gray Frame, billet grille, aluminum AC front bumper and 6-pack rack, Nerf Bars, and LED tail lights and LED accent light on motor. This bike will make someone very happy. I have personally owned it for 12 years and have been very meticulous with the maintanence of this machine. If you add up the cost of the modifications alone you are almost at my asking price, this is a sreaming deal on a screaming bike. If you have any questions feel free to email or PM me. Derek

I agree the pricing must change depending on what region you are in. If you look at the cycle trader here, the price I am asking is right in line.

I didn't ask what you thought it was worth did I???

This is a clean 1992 Yamaha Banshee. It was completely rebuilt in the summer of 2004. The list of goodies consists of: Pro-circuit pipes and stainless silencers, flywheel lightened and head milled by Duncan Racing, V-Force reeds, urethane intakes, Pro-flow kit with K&N filter, twist throttle, Alba Pro-Comp front suspension with Elka Dune Edition Dual-Rate shocks, Denton steering stabilizer, Works Suspension rear shock with remote reservoir, ITP sand stars in the rear and razors up front, aluminum wheels, Lazer Star lights with handlebar clamp, clear Radflo coolant lines, sandblasted cylinders and head, Maier orange plastics, billet grille, aluminum AC front bumper and 6-pack rack, and LED tail lights. This bike is my baby and I am only selling it in order to build a buggy. The bike is located in San Diego, I am asking $4800 obo. Pictures If you want some more pictures or details feel free to PM me.

Will you take $160 shipped for the stator cover? Thanks, Derek

I had a problem during my last trip to the dunes, actually it is a problem I have been trying to diagnose during the last 3 trips to the dunes. After a 20-30 minute ride my bike would start to miss like crazy from about 1/2 to full throttle. I would then throw new plugs in and it would run fine for about 20 minutes and then do the same thing. Normally if I let it cool down it would start up and run fine until it got hot again. I had replaced the coil, stator, reeds, messed with jetting endlessly all in hopes of solving this problem. I finally got fed up and took it to get it dynoed and jetted correctly once and for all. I picked it up from the dyno, took it to Glamis and what does it do after 20-30 minutes, you guessed it. After messing with the main jets, and needles some more without any results, a buddy in my group said I should reduce the plug gap. So I pulled the plugs that were missing like crazy and reduced the gap from .028" to .023", I fired it up and it ran perfectly for the rest of the weekend. This was a problem they had encountered before, hence the suggestion. It turned out that my combination of 160psi+ compression, combined with Slower burning VP C-12, +4 advanced timing, and the banshee's notoriously weak ignition, was allowing the spark to be extinguished before it would ignite. Just somethng to think about, it sure as hell made my weekend!!! Derek

Well I just completed my mods and decided to let Alba dial it in for me. When I took it there I knew it was jetted way rich just to be safe. My mods are as follows: Pro circuit pipes, pro-flow kit w/ K&N, airbox lid removed, V-force delta 2 reeds, head milled for race gas, timing advanced 4 degrees, lightened flywheel, running VP C-12 race fuel. I am very happy with the results and will test it out on Thursday at Glamis!!! Let me know what you think of these numbers #1- 370 mains, stk needle 4th clip, 30 pilot, air screw 2 turns out---This gave me a max of 46.27 hp at 8200rpms. This also gave me 39,45hp at 9300 rpms. #2 300 mains, Alba needle 4th clip, 30 pilot, air screw 1 turn out---This gave me a max of 49.29 hp at 9300 rpms Derek

I just purchased and installed some delta 2 v-force reeds, and now I am going to get rid of my K&N clamp-ons. I am going to reinstall an airbox and get a pro flow kit w/ a K&N. My question is will I need to change my jetting, or do both systems provide about the same amount of airflow? Thanks, Derek

Thanks for the responses. When I assembled the motor I used Yamabond 4 between the intake and reed cage, I think it is working fine. I will just use a gasket when I replace the reeds. I don't think it is an air leak because both plugs look identical. Sometimes it will run great but at others it will sort of miss during acceleration, I think it may be starving for fuel. I am going to run richer jets and see if it affects the plugs and solves my acceleration problem. I will probably get the V-force reeds, since it seems to be a unanimous opinion that they are the best. What differences can I expect from them? Also what is the best and easiest to find tool to measure the float height? Finally, I would love to have only one carb to deal with. How would the trinity 2 into 1 kit work in the sand? Would I want the 33 or 35 keihin carb? How does this kit work in conjunction with v-force reeds? BY the way if anyone has this setup for sale please let me know!!! Thanks, Derek

I have come up with a few questions as I've been trying to dial my bike in. 1. I have the UPP intakes, and was wondering how I should be sealing them to the reed cage? I know a gasket goes between the reed cage and cylinder mating surface, and that on a stock intake there is a rubber seal which eliminates the need for a gasket between the intake and reed cage. But on the UPP intake there is no such rubber seal. What is everyone else doing with these, are you just using another gasket? 2.What is everyone's opinion on the best reed for use with the stock cage? Or should I just get the V-Forces, for an extra $100 or so. I have not ported my motor, am using stock carbs, running about 160psi compression, and running race gas. 3. Is reading plugs any different for a motor running VP C-12, than a motor running pump gas. For example does the desired color range differ at all. 4. Currently I am running a 350 main and am using the 4th clip on the stock needle, pro circuit pipes, 160psi compression, k&n clamp-ons, race gas, +4 timing advance, and boyesen reeds. I always ride at Glamis which is at sea level and in about 70 degree temps. The plug makes me think the bike is running lean, but 350 seems to me to be a pretty big main for my mods. Is it possible that I would need to run 370's or 380's? Let me know what you guys are running at Glamis or with similar mods. Sorry for all of the questions. Thanks, Derek

Yeah mine was only doing it after a 20-30 minute ride but it was around 90-95 degrees out. I hope the coil is the problem, it would be an easy fix. Derek

Okay I tested the coil. I got .4 ohms resistance between the primarys, when I tried to check the secondary resistance nothing registered. I also trimmed the ends of the secondary leads and tested again once again there was nothing. Am I correct in assuming that this means the coil is toast? My question how did my bike run at all when there is absolutely no secondary resistance? Thanks, Derek

The carbs are clean, and there is plenty of fuel in the float bowls when this happens. I do run a fuel filter which is brand new, however I have run an Identical one for years without a problem. I am hoping it is the coil, I plan to test it within the next few days. It also could very well be the stator, which has not been replaced, I will check it also. Thanks

Come on guys somebody must know if a bad coil will do this!!! Also will a CDI ever act intermittently like this? Finally it seems to only do it when it gets hot, so how do I test the electrical components for this condition. Thanks, Derek

The fuel should be good, it is 2 week old VP C-12. It runs great most of the time, therefore I doubt it is a fuel problem. After doing some searching I found posts stating that the coil may start to act up after getting hot. This problem did only occur when the bike was hot, so I think this may be the problem. Has anyone else experienced this, if so what happened? Could this be the CDI acting up, or do these either work or not work? Thanks, Derek