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Figured I’d bring up some of the stuff that has been hitting my desk lately. A chassis designed to use equal length arms to eliminate bump steer will in fact make it easy to eliminate bump steer, but you’re giving up everything that helps you maintain corner grip. On paper, I’m coming up with around a 20% loss in grip on average for the frames I have a model for. Some of them peak around a 40% loss in grip. Bump steer is fine in some circumstances. I like no bump steer for the lower 80% of the travel and then a touch of bump in. This helps keep it straight on hard hits. Everybody talks about straight line bump steer but nobody talks about when the bars are turned, which is a VASTLY more important matter. I’m getting close to trade secrets here but suffice it to say that eliminating bump steer while turning can cost you seconds. Not tenths. Seconds. Give the tire what it wants, not what Instagram hashtags tell you that it should want. A year or two ago, I would have told you everything I know on the matter but after having another chassis builder tell me that I needed to come read this guide (ya know, the one I wrote) and learn a few things, I’m now aware that I’m helping an asshole. I have zero tolerance for rude people so if you want to know more about this, PM me or find me on facebook. People like 250R rake (which is technically called wheel recession angle or WRA) but that comes at a cost. Higher WRA of around 15 degrees or so can cause a lot of dive under braking. Add in the extra weight of something that isn’t a 250R and the issue gets worse. If you can work with it then the extra comfort and compliance can be worth the trade off, but you have to work with it (weight on your feet under braking, not into your hands). There are about 6-7 things to look at with WRA but the gist is that heavier riders need less, heavier braking needs less, and a shorter wheelbase needs less. For the 800th time, no wheel spacers ever. The shock matters more than the arm. With the shock, the spring has one job: to hold the load introduced to it. The valving controls how fast the spring gets back to its steady state when the load changes. If it’s rough as fuck, 95% of your issues are either because your tire pressure is off, your ride height is off, or your valving is off. It is VERY rarely the spring(s). If someone quotes hooke’s law (a sign they don’t know shit) then ask how that changes with velocity. Even if you don’t know the answer, it’ll let them know they’re at the end of their rope. I’ll be back in about a month to bitch about something else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I showed my neighbor the pictures of this Banshee on my iPad because he is a retired old school Yamaha mechanic with 30 years of experience. He said that all the plastics that are on this Banshee are the original factory plastics. He also said the plastics that were made in 87 - 92 were made way better than the plastics from 1993 and up that were cheaply made. He also said that 1987- 1992 had warning stickers and the 1993 and up came with riveted on warning labels. He wanted me to say that this thing is the perfect candidate for a full restoration and said don’t cut any corners buy doing a cheap restoration job and that this machine deserves the best quality parts available.

I ran a RIGID 6" lightbar on just a converter/rectifier for 6 years. It's a great inexpensive way to go, but yeah you can youtube DC conversion or just search here. It's been covered 100 times. One thread is like 20 pages of all of bitching at each other.

If you removed the shift forks from the shafts you may have mixed them up putting it back together. This will prevent you from being able to seat the transmission shafts in the cases.

The Evol chamber should be 2-4x the main chamber. I’ve never seen a main chamber need more than 60psi ever. Set the main chamber to get to ride height. Not for stiffness, not for comfort, not because Carl on Facebook said so, not because anyone else said so. The only job of the air in the main chamber is to get to ride height, same with springs. Before you do that, put it on concrete (or a tile floor, wood, etc.) and put cardboard under the tires. Set the tire pressure exactly how you plan on riding it and get on it. Bounce up and down while turning the bars and then settle slowly into your riding position. Have someone else measure the height under the lower frame rails. Rear is under the pegs, the front is on the flat part of the frame just before it angles up to the lower arm mounts. Your starting target should be around 7” in the rear and 7.5” in front. The difference in rear vs. front height is rake, so .5” rake in this case. More rake allows for better compliance on rough terrain at speed. Less rake keeps it flatter under braking. If it wants to roll excessively or take any static load well, add Evol pressure. If that doesn’t solve it, add ride height. If it wants to tip, lower the front ride height. If that doesn’t solve it, lower Evol pressure. Every ride height change you make affects alignment so you’ll want to double check that. Set the adjustments in the middle. If it’s rough on single impacts at speed, lower high speed compression. If it’s fine, turn it up until it isn’t, then back off a notch. As you change the high speed compression, you should also change the rebound to a degree. If I do 3 clicks on HS, I usually do 2 on rebound. For braking, hard cornering, and general riding, low speed is what you’ll want to focus on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven’t been very active online for quite a while since changing around almost everything in my life. I keep getting people asking the same questions and I’ve changed my views on a few things over time. I’ll add more here and there but it’ll be short and sweet for now. Long travel is not needed for a banshee rear. It isn’t needed for most quads. Long travel isn’t necessary but if you’re buying shocks and arms anyway, it’s a no brainer. 99% of all people who tell you what suspension or chassis setup is good just legitimately don’t have a clue. This goes all the way up to most builders who actually build arms. I also spoke with a pro rider the other day that asked if a vented hood was going to give him better lap times, so yes, your heroes are full-on space cadets as well. A few know things, but not many these days. “5 years no issues” means almost nothing to fabricated parts. It may have sat for all of it and your “huge air” is probably a 36” tabletop. You may have gotten a set that is only being held together by luck and not know it because you just can’t ride. There are 2 companies in the US who currently manufacture arms with any sense of modern engineering in mind: Lonestar and LS4. Lonestar has the budget. LS4 is where I used to work. The rest use the ideas from past generations of builders or hear say. All competition arms are made from 0.083” -0.120” wall chromoly or DOM for the lowers, 0.065-0.120 wall chromoly or DOM for the uppers. I know because I’ve repaired all of them. There is almost always no testing beyond the first model that a product is made for, with the rest just changing to fit and using the previously proven principles. “I got shocks setup for my weight and riding style” is the equivalent of saying, “I got shoes for my feet and walking style.” It’s a given. Stop saying it. Alba is still Chinese garbage with dogshit welds. When they admit it, I’ll get off their case. They’re the beats by Dre of 4 wheelers. My current stance on the best arms available are Lonestar DC-Pro. I won’t air anyone out because some of them are my friends, but I’ve repaired shit that I shouldn’t have to repair. “Stackin dimes” isn’t going to make it an x-ray grade weld. If I had a dollar for every pretty weld I’ve had to cut out and repair… Anyway, the answer is Lonestar DC-Pro. If you ask, “but what about _____” then my answer is still the same. Save for some off the wall shop that’s making one or two arms here and there, I’ve been in all of them and I’ve already considered the question. If I/we release a set of banshee arms, I’ll come here to let you guys know. Lightweight stuff and hillshooter builds are not my area. I won’t speak on anything that isn’t MX/XC/Desert oriented until I’ve gotten more into it. -DDQ 4 Prez Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Although I don't see how they can compare their straight weight to a multi weight. especially when you know "W" means "winter"

Anyway, for the OP... This is from Bel-Rays website to help clarify weights of motor oil vs gear oil . "A 10W-40 motor oil’s viscosity is actually similar to the viscosity of 80W gear oil, and the viscosity of SAE 10W-30 is similar to 75W gear oil."

If you got that gut feeling about them then trust your gut and find a Banshee that is for sale locally where you live or one that is in a reasonable driving distance. I found my mint condition 05 Special Edition Banshee for a good price from a local collector. Good Luck!

I went and purchased the oem Yamaha fuel shut off valve. The guy at the parts counter at the dealership said the same exact thing about the dual pingle fuel valve. I got it installed and now everything is back together and working perfectly again . Thanks, Jake

7k will get ya started.

You might want to post a thread of this question over in the Drag forum.

^^ I'm with dummy here Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Currently on my Banshee I’m running the 21x7-10 and 20x11-9 6 ply Kenda Klaw XC. I like them a lot because they have excellent traction in all types of terrain that I ride in and the added bonus is with the rear tires because you can run them in 2 different directions. One direction is for soft terrain then the other direction is for a medium to hard terrain. As for my wheels I’m using my oem black wheels that I had powder coated semi gloss black.

No. C-12 is useless. You should always run the least octane your setup can take, not the other way around. Octane don't make power. Use 91-93 pump gaz, ethanol free is better Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Jfc . PULL THE PLUGS, AND SHOVE SOMETHING IN THERE TO MEASURE THE TOTAL UP AND DOWN MOVEMENT OF PISTON. does someone need to write it in crayon to comprendé?

To be honest anything that VP Racing make is a great product but there’s many different brands of 2 stroke pre mix oil on the market that are also very good as well. There must be a specific reason why the previous owner used VP’s brand over the other brands. So If you need to buy the VP’s Racing brand of 2 stroke oil online then that’s really not a big deal. A lot of people on the site here have there preference on what they run and like very much and most will tell you to try either Klotz R-50 or Klotz Super Techniplate, Klotz Benol, Maxima Castor 927 or Blendzall Green Label and the list is endless. I myself personally prefer Motul 800 2t off road. I been using it since my Banshee was brand new in 2004. I mix it at 50:1 because if I do it at 32:1 then I get the black drool coming out the end of my silencers. If Motul was to discontinue the brand I use I would switch to either Klotz R-50 or Klotz Super Techniplate or even Blendzall’s green label. The group that I ride with they all use Klotz as their choice of 2 stroke oil. So just stop pussy footing around a get out and ride the hell out of the damn thing and enjoy it !!!!!! Good Luck and Ride Safe !!!

Jetting the carbs depends on the mods that you have done to your Banshee and your location where you live and outside temperatures. What main jets & pilot jets are you running right now and what is your air screws set at? You very rarely have to mess around with the needle. Also what type of premix are you using and at what ratio?

To really get down to it, a longer shock is typically associated with a higher shaft speed. That can make it easier on the shock builder (Ben does good work) but it doesn't always make a huge difference. To be completely honest, having the arms strong enough and of the right width is 95% of what you want to look for if you’re going to build a top notch setup. Once you get in a good ballpark on leverage ratio, that’s good enough. The geometry of the arms isn’t THAT important. I used to think it is, but it really isn’t. When people say they’re developing a-arms, they’re really just getting the shocks dialed in for it and building charts. Arms are simple; they just hold the loads introduced into it. If you build a set of lower arms out of .095 chromoly or .125 steel and you know the design is okay, it's gonna last. it just has to be strong enough to handle braking forces (which puts the front tube in tension and the rear in compression) and bending forces. It’s comically easy to do. To get down to it, the main reason most people don’t develop arms is because of the return on investment as quantity changes. My cost to make a single set of top tier arms is around $950. To make 50 sets drops that price to either $486 or $468, I don’t remember which. Thats $24k of an investment that I’ll sit on for years when I could put that money elsewhere and make even more. There are a lot of rules of thumb in suspension that I’ve heard over the years that are rooted in general advice and nothing more. 2:1 leverage ratio being perfect is absolutely one of those things. I very much don’t like Alba, but fireball and Lonestar are good for sure. Just keep in mind that a damper is doing all the work and getting next to no credit. The shocks you get are built off of charts that may be 20 years old. A good damper on cheap arms will annihilate a bad damper on good arms. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You even weld bruh

Are you talking combustion area or water area( and not near oring surfaces). If combustion, as long as there arent pieces stuck in it, that could come loose, some will buff & reuse it. Is it worth it... not to me. Depending, it could create hot spots too. 1st ? Id ask is, is it from the current set up u have now? If so, you might have detonation issues that id address 1st!

We are in 2024, let them identify as they want. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

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Chariot sells billet baskets and pancake bearings…. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice looking bike

Welcome back. We now have 11 active members.

Got a set of these on my bench right now. Lane & Bill are making moves! Their cases are friggin’ nice. They are a way cleaner casting then OEM. Hard to believe, but they are.

<<< KNOWS ...his gays

There the tubular ones and the flat "L" shaped ones, left and right each.

Pas aussi actif qu'avant ;-) Je suis seulement actif sur BHQ. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Yes they are pretty nice. Look’s like a brand new product. Cannot find any infos or videos of people who tried them. They cost a little bit more than OEM cases and was wondering if it worth it. I thought they would be nice with my Cub setup. Thanks ***Claude, content de voir que tu es encore actif dans le monde des Banshee !

You can wait to see how it goes or I can tell you. It’s a drastic difference if you’re going to be pushing it any at all. With 20” tires, it cuts feedback by around 85% depending on the tire pressure you run at. It’s fairly easy to calculate. Stock offset works best with around 24” tires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Has to be a good brand that makes strong arms, which narrows it down to Roll, Lonestar, and Fireball. Has to be a brand that has a good shock program for their arms, which narrows it down to Roll and Lonestar. Of those, roll has a MUCH better shock program. I like Fox but that’s just because I’m used to them. Any shocks that dyno right and have the right rates will be fine, but that’s a lot of work. Just go through Roll for the shocks. Definitely want to pair the front with 4/1 rims. Taller stem with good bars will help too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bump pic's fer claude to look @, instead of lil'smeph III

Fuck the arrow, no need at all. If you understand how things works, you don't need the arrow. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

I see DMS makes hand coned pipes now... From what I'm seeing on FB about this Ernest guy, I'd stay away.

Haha, you're going to fit in just fine here.

The hoods are going to love these.

Why not just buy the real ones....shearers

Yes, succion. Just plug them. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Clues.

What you expect. Nobody wants to go, and risk getting snitched on.

They seem to be made with quality. Should be fun, bike is 1 step closer to running.I made a video. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You'll get lots of opinions and recommendations to that question and I don't think any one "best" can be singled out. There are a bunch of different brands that will take care of business just fine as long as it's non friction modified so it doesn't mess with the wet clutch. The manual calls for a 10w 30 motor oil. Personally I've always used Belray. This comment will probably stir things up but in my opinion (and that of my tranny guy Mark @ R&D Motorsports) I wouldn't use ATF fluid.

SLP are clear winner on that setup. Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

From the videos you have posted, I believe that you are hearing your aluminum labyrinth seal "clicking" between your two inside crank bearings. The video that confirms this best for me, is where you are rotating the flywheel by hand. This is a common issue we see with factory crankshafts, where there is no o-ring located on the lab seal. Most aftermarket crankshafts have at least one, if not two o-rings installed to prevent the seal from moving side to side. You can confirm this to be your issue by simply unbolting your reeds from the cylinder and rotate the flywheel by hand just like you did before. The crankcase will no longer be sealed and thus, put little to no pressure on the lab seal back and forth. If the clicking is now gone from removing the reeds , the good news is - it really is not hurting anything and a repair is not required immediately. However, to repair the issue, an o-ring should be installed on the lab seal. If you remove the reeds and the clicking persists, I would recommend that you tear down and inspect for a damaged bearing on the crankshaft. Good luck! -Chris

I'm running 15/39 on my 02, with bolt ons don't know top speed but will lite the rear end up pretty much off idle. will leave 12 ft of black mark when hitting sixth gear on pavement.

Wooo hooo someone else using the same oil as me

Now remember this dyno is going to read lower as it has the eddy current brake on it. That being said we tested the pro circuits with 296 forest silencers and 304 factory sound silencers (the outcome may shock you). We also tested the CPI's and Trinity's. We wanted to test these all on the same dyno so there would be no confusion or trying to compare numbers from different dyno's. This dyno is known the be very conservative. Here is the chart with the 4 setups that are listed above. We also tried some different curves on the dyna ignition and got the jetting sqaured away. I understand the Pro Circuits may not pull to the moon, but I know for a fact that is not where I want my power. I'm not constantly running it at the redline. It's not a drag bike. (Light Blue) Run 19 Pro Circuits 296 (Forest Approved!!) (Red) Run 23 Pro Circuits 304 (Factory Sound) (Green) Run 26 CPI (Dark Blue) Run 28 Trinity Stage IV Just to clarify THE PRO CIRCUITS WITH 296 SILENCERS ARE THE LINES ON THE TOP OF THE GRAPH!!!!! HP and Torque for all four setups. Same curves without torque and the writing out of the way. Pro Circuits by them selves I will get a picture up of the timing curves and give you guys all of the jetting and setup specifics in a few minutes. While I'm doing that go order some Pro Circuits for your Serval

I am having the same problem with my banshee. Like you I have re-sealed the entire engine, new rings, have got good compression and am currently working on getting the jetting right, however mine is doing the same thing, I heard someone mention something about the carb pistons being in mixed up will this cause it to be very difficult to get jetted right, I got the bike about 6 months ago and cant seem to get it right, and how do i tell what side is supposed to be where is it marked??