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Figured I’d bring up some of the stuff that has been hitting my desk lately. A chassis designed to use equal length arms to eliminate bump steer will in fact make it easy to eliminate bump steer, but you’re giving up everything that helps you maintain corner grip. On paper, I’m coming up with around a 20% loss in grip on average for the frames I have a model for. Some of them peak around a 40% loss in grip. Bump steer is fine in some circumstances. I like no bump steer for the lower 80% of the travel and then a touch of bump in. This helps keep it straight on hard hits. Everybody talks about straight line bump steer but nobody talks about when the bars are turned, which is a VASTLY more important matter. I’m getting close to trade secrets here but suffice it to say that eliminating bump steer while turning can cost you seconds. Not tenths. Seconds. Give the tire what it wants, not what Instagram hashtags tell you that it should want. A year or two ago, I would have told you everything I know on the matter but after having another chassis builder tell me that I needed to come read this guide (ya know, the one I wrote) and learn a few things, I’m now aware that I’m helping an asshole. I have zero tolerance for rude people so if you want to know more about this, PM me or find me on facebook. People like 250R rake (which is technically called wheel recession angle or WRA) but that comes at a cost. Higher WRA of around 15 degrees or so can cause a lot of dive under braking. Add in the extra weight of something that isn’t a 250R and the issue gets worse. If you can work with it then the extra comfort and compliance can be worth the trade off, but you have to work with it (weight on your feet under braking, not into your hands). There are about 6-7 things to look at with WRA but the gist is that heavier riders need less, heavier braking needs less, and a shorter wheelbase needs less. For the 800th time, no wheel spacers ever. The shock matters more than the arm. With the shock, the spring has one job: to hold the load introduced to it. The valving controls how fast the spring gets back to its steady state when the load changes. If it’s rough as fuck, 95% of your issues are either because your tire pressure is off, your ride height is off, or your valving is off. It is VERY rarely the spring(s). If someone quotes hooke’s law (a sign they don’t know shit) then ask how that changes with velocity. Even if you don’t know the answer, it’ll let them know they’re at the end of their rope. I’ll be back in about a month to bitch about something else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I showed my neighbor the pictures of this Banshee on my iPad because he is a retired old school Yamaha mechanic with 30 years of experience. He said that all the plastics that are on this Banshee are the original factory plastics. He also said the plastics that were made in 87 - 92 were made way better than the plastics from 1993 and up that were cheaply made. He also said that 1987- 1992 had warning stickers and the 1993 and up came with riveted on warning labels. He wanted me to say that this thing is the perfect candidate for a full restoration and said don’t cut any corners buy doing a cheap restoration job and that this machine deserves the best quality parts available.

I ran a RIGID 6" lightbar on just a converter/rectifier for 6 years. It's a great inexpensive way to go, but yeah you can youtube DC conversion or just search here. It's been covered 100 times. One thread is like 20 pages of all of bitching at each other.

If you removed the shift forks from the shafts you may have mixed them up putting it back together. This will prevent you from being able to seat the transmission shafts in the cases.

The Evol chamber should be 2-4x the main chamber. I’ve never seen a main chamber need more than 60psi ever. Set the main chamber to get to ride height. Not for stiffness, not for comfort, not because Carl on Facebook said so, not because anyone else said so. The only job of the air in the main chamber is to get to ride height, same with springs. Before you do that, put it on concrete (or a tile floor, wood, etc.) and put cardboard under the tires. Set the tire pressure exactly how you plan on riding it and get on it. Bounce up and down while turning the bars and then settle slowly into your riding position. Have someone else measure the height under the lower frame rails. Rear is under the pegs, the front is on the flat part of the frame just before it angles up to the lower arm mounts. Your starting target should be around 7” in the rear and 7.5” in front. The difference in rear vs. front height is rake, so .5” rake in this case. More rake allows for better compliance on rough terrain at speed. Less rake keeps it flatter under braking. If it wants to roll excessively or take any static load well, add Evol pressure. If that doesn’t solve it, add ride height. If it wants to tip, lower the front ride height. If that doesn’t solve it, lower Evol pressure. Every ride height change you make affects alignment so you’ll want to double check that. Set the adjustments in the middle. If it’s rough on single impacts at speed, lower high speed compression. If it’s fine, turn it up until it isn’t, then back off a notch. As you change the high speed compression, you should also change the rebound to a degree. If I do 3 clicks on HS, I usually do 2 on rebound. For braking, hard cornering, and general riding, low speed is what you’ll want to focus on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven’t been very active online for quite a while since changing around almost everything in my life. I keep getting people asking the same questions and I’ve changed my views on a few things over time. I’ll add more here and there but it’ll be short and sweet for now. Long travel is not needed for a banshee rear. It isn’t needed for most quads. Long travel isn’t necessary but if you’re buying shocks and arms anyway, it’s a no brainer. 99% of all people who tell you what suspension or chassis setup is good just legitimately don’t have a clue. This goes all the way up to most builders who actually build arms. I also spoke with a pro rider the other day that asked if a vented hood was going to give him better lap times, so yes, your heroes are full-on space cadets as well. A few know things, but not many these days. “5 years no issues” means almost nothing to fabricated parts. It may have sat for all of it and your “huge air” is probably a 36” tabletop. You may have gotten a set that is only being held together by luck and not know it because you just can’t ride. There are 2 companies in the US who currently manufacture arms with any sense of modern engineering in mind: Lonestar and LS4. Lonestar has the budget. LS4 is where I used to work. The rest use the ideas from past generations of builders or hear say. All competition arms are made from 0.083” -0.120” wall chromoly or DOM for the lowers, 0.065-0.120 wall chromoly or DOM for the uppers. I know because I’ve repaired all of them. There is almost always no testing beyond the first model that a product is made for, with the rest just changing to fit and using the previously proven principles. “I got shocks setup for my weight and riding style” is the equivalent of saying, “I got shoes for my feet and walking style.” It’s a given. Stop saying it. Alba is still Chinese garbage with dogshit welds. When they admit it, I’ll get off their case. They’re the beats by Dre of 4 wheelers. My current stance on the best arms available are Lonestar DC-Pro. I won’t air anyone out because some of them are my friends, but I’ve repaired shit that I shouldn’t have to repair. “Stackin dimes” isn’t going to make it an x-ray grade weld. If I had a dollar for every pretty weld I’ve had to cut out and repair… Anyway, the answer is Lonestar DC-Pro. If you ask, “but what about _____” then my answer is still the same. Save for some off the wall shop that’s making one or two arms here and there, I’ve been in all of them and I’ve already considered the question. If I/we release a set of banshee arms, I’ll come here to let you guys know. Lightweight stuff and hillshooter builds are not my area. I won’t speak on anything that isn’t MX/XC/Desert oriented until I’ve gotten more into it. -DDQ 4 Prez Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You need to avoid buying cheap Chinese knockoff PW’s carbs at all cost and “ONLY BUY” genuine keihin 28mm PWK’s carbs. Check with any of the sponsors on the site here for them.

Although I don't see how they can compare their straight weight to a multi weight. especially when you know "W" means "winter"

Anyway, for the OP... This is from Bel-Rays website to help clarify weights of motor oil vs gear oil . "A 10W-40 motor oil’s viscosity is actually similar to the viscosity of 80W gear oil, and the viscosity of SAE 10W-30 is similar to 75W gear oil."

If you got that gut feeling about them then trust your gut and find a Banshee that is for sale locally where you live or one that is in a reasonable driving distance. I found my mint condition 05 Special Edition Banshee for a good price from a local collector. Good Luck!

You are better off with the aftermarket chain slider. The oem setup is prone to failure.

I went and purchased the oem Yamaha fuel shut off valve. The guy at the parts counter at the dealership said the same exact thing about the dual pingle fuel valve. I got it installed and now everything is back together and working perfectly again . Thanks, Jake

I would say buy the oem Yamaha fuel shut off valve unless you’re planning to do some major engine / carburetor upgrades later down the road then I would recommend purchasing the dual pingle shut off valve. The rebuild kits are pretty much a universal rebuild kit. When my fuel shut off valve went bad I just replaced it with the oem Yamaha one. It’s all up to you on what you want to purchase. Good luck!!

Thank You JerzOutlaw350 for the recommendation on the Kenda Klaw XC tires. I didn’t expect to go riding today with my buddies because of all the rain we got yesterday but they called me early this morning and wanted to know if I wanted to go riding and I didn’t hesitate and went riding and boy I’m very happy with the way tires performed. Thanks, Jake

7k will get ya started.

^^ I'm with dummy here Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Thanks ClaudeMachining! Yeah I should’ve also took the advice that JerzOutlaw350 gave as well on the type of gas to run. I found a local Sunoco gas station that sells 95 octane ethanol free gasoline at the pump for $4.45 a gallon. I’ll just take the other 5 gallon drum of VP C-12 I have and save it and dump it into my street bike. Thanks Again Jake

Jfc . PULL THE PLUGS, AND SHOVE SOMETHING IN THERE TO MEASURE THE TOTAL UP AND DOWN MOVEMENT OF PISTON. does someone need to write it in crayon to comprendé?

Just use the oil and buy some easy available one after. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Any modern oil mixed in between 2% and 4% will be good. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

I have stock kickstarter and I also have size 13 feet and only kick it over while wearing work boots or riding boots. My Compression is 145 psi I also don’t have heal guards but I do have full rear fenders and my calf doesn’t come into contact with the rear fender while kicking it over.

Yes, Atv’s in 1987 came with a title. My neighbor just went through this with his Banshee. There’s a few ways of obtaining a title for your Banshee. It’s a lot of work to get a title and to some people it’s not worth it effort. You had the VIN # checked and it came back clean then I would leave it alone unless you plan on doing some illegal riding. But here’s a few options for obtaining a title. *1st way I would just have the guy you bought it from write you a bill of sale and have it notarized and then have him get the original owner to write a bill of sale and have it notarized as well. Then just ride the Banshee and enjoy it! *2nd way is by having the original owner apply for a duplicate title though the state DMV as long as the title was transferred into his name after he purchased the Banshee from the dealership. If he didn’t transfer the title after he purchased the Banshee then he might be able to contact the dealership and see if they still have a record of the sale. *3rd way If you know or if you have a close friend that owns a towing business then you can have him apply for a abandon vehicle title through the state DMV. Good Luck!!

Jetting the carbs depends on the mods that you have done to your Banshee and your location where you live and outside temperatures. What main jets & pilot jets are you running right now and what is your air screws set at? You very rarely have to mess around with the needle. Also what type of premix are you using and at what ratio?

You even weld bruh

Are you talking combustion area or water area( and not near oring surfaces). If combustion, as long as there arent pieces stuck in it, that could come loose, some will buff & reuse it. Is it worth it... not to me. Depending, it could create hot spots too. 1st ? Id ask is, is it from the current set up u have now? If so, you might have detonation issues that id address 1st!

We are in 2024, let them identify as they want. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

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Chariot sells billet baskets and pancake bearings…. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome back. We now have 11 active members.

Got a set of these on my bench right now. Lane & Bill are making moves! Their cases are friggin’ nice. They are a way cleaner casting then OEM. Hard to believe, but they are.

2GU-21513-00-00 STAY, FENDER 1 and 2GU-21514-00-00 STAY, FENDER 2

There the tubular ones and the flat "L" shaped ones, left and right each.

Yes they are pretty nice. Look’s like a brand new product. Cannot find any infos or videos of people who tried them. They cost a little bit more than OEM cases and was wondering if it worth it. I thought they would be nice with my Cub setup. Thanks ***Claude, content de voir que tu es encore actif dans le monde des Banshee !

Use tapatalk

Has to be a good brand that makes strong arms, which narrows it down to Roll, Lonestar, and Fireball. Has to be a brand that has a good shock program for their arms, which narrows it down to Roll and Lonestar. Of those, roll has a MUCH better shock program. I like Fox but that’s just because I’m used to them. Any shocks that dyno right and have the right rates will be fine, but that’s a lot of work. Just go through Roll for the shocks. Definitely want to pair the front with 4/1 rims. Taller stem with good bars will help too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like a fun project! Enjoy

Bump pic's fer claude to look @, instead of lil'smeph III

Some body bug something!!!! I owe Claude for a LSR clamp I prolly won’t use…. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I see DMS makes hand coned pipes now... From what I'm seeing on FB about this Ernest guy, I'd stay away.

Haha, you're going to fit in just fine here.

Yes, succion. Just plug them. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Cheapest easiest mod to up it a little will be a milled head. But before you start throwing the parts cannon at it, do some SERIOUS research on jetting and tuning carbs. You would be amazed at the amount of medium built bikes that can just BARELY squeak a win against a properly tuned bike. the most power a 2stroke will make is actually in the detrimental area for hurting the engine……a 2stroke when lean…is mean. ever run a piece 2stroke power equipment out of fuel? The moment before it dies, it runs stronger than ever. I’m not saying run it so low that it will hurt your bike….. I’m just saying that if you’re running too rich you may be hurting yourself. And if your brothers bike is too lean, it may just be hurting his motor too. That’s why plug chops and learning to read the plug are important. also…those “recommended” jets are just a starting point…..don’t ever guarantee that they know what’s best….. hell they probably are not accounting for air temp/elevation, other mods, health of motor…..

Clues.

Because of the extra leverage applied by the new +3 arms, I'd max out the spring adjuster on the stock shocks first.

Did you smoke the same shit as Robby Gordon?

SLP are clear winner on that setup. Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

Wooo hooo someone else using the same oil as me

Now remember this dyno is going to read lower as it has the eddy current brake on it. That being said we tested the pro circuits with 296 forest silencers and 304 factory sound silencers (the outcome may shock you). We also tested the CPI's and Trinity's. We wanted to test these all on the same dyno so there would be no confusion or trying to compare numbers from different dyno's. This dyno is known the be very conservative. Here is the chart with the 4 setups that are listed above. We also tried some different curves on the dyna ignition and got the jetting sqaured away. I understand the Pro Circuits may not pull to the moon, but I know for a fact that is not where I want my power. I'm not constantly running it at the redline. It's not a drag bike. (Light Blue) Run 19 Pro Circuits 296 (Forest Approved!!) (Red) Run 23 Pro Circuits 304 (Factory Sound) (Green) Run 26 CPI (Dark Blue) Run 28 Trinity Stage IV Just to clarify THE PRO CIRCUITS WITH 296 SILENCERS ARE THE LINES ON THE TOP OF THE GRAPH!!!!! HP and Torque for all four setups. Same curves without torque and the writing out of the way. Pro Circuits by them selves I will get a picture up of the timing curves and give you guys all of the jetting and setup specifics in a few minutes. While I'm doing that go order some Pro Circuits for your Serval

Congrats on your first post. You've read alot in the last week huh.

I am having the same problem with my banshee. Like you I have re-sealed the entire engine, new rings, have got good compression and am currently working on getting the jetting right, however mine is doing the same thing, I heard someone mention something about the carb pistons being in mixed up will this cause it to be very difficult to get jetted right, I got the bike about 6 months ago and cant seem to get it right, and how do i tell what side is supposed to be where is it marked??