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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/21/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    . Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  2. 2 points
    Camatc trying to help me recover my atc last night. We ended up having to hike to some sxs guys for help. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  3. 1 point
    Hey all. I’m located in Orange County CA. I HAVE A 2000 green sticker banshee. Haven’t used the bike in about 10 years. Been keeping it just in case but I think it’s time to let it go. Title is good and in my name. Hopefully I can remember all the mods! Engine mild port and polish, crank welded and trued, wiseco pistons - 2nd size up after stock. v force 3 reeds, k&n pods, tors removed, coolant bottle moved up front, key removed (hidden under seat) , shaved fenders, sand star sidewinder rear, sand star front tires, additional set of tires mid shark rear on aluminums regular nobbies on stock front rims , stock Headlights removed- billet headlights on handlebars 50w halogens each. Moose stator 210w( cannot remember if that’s correct over 200 for sure) timing advanced +7 (I think . Cannot remember. Have the billet timing plate) it’s on pump gas. Shaved shift star, new did o ring chain and 14tooth renthal drive gear. New chain rollers. Trail tech vector computer. Pro circuit platinum pipes and silencers. Installed screens for rangers that check. Got stickers from Alba action sports but one fell off. ( they went outta business) +2” braided rear brake line - never got around to lengthening the swing arm . It really needs it with all the engine mods. 310 mains, 27.5 pilot, 4 gallon Clarke tank great for a giant, I mean giant lap of glamis. Whip holder. I’m sure I’m missing something . Hit me up with questions. I didn’t want to sell on CL cause I’d like it to go to someone who knows these bikes and I’ve been a member here since 2002. ok what the bike needs - new grips new handlebars, I tried painting the a arms years ago and didn’t do a good job .lol they need paint. let me know if you have any questions I’m available to show the Bike whenever. Serious people only. $2750 obo I cannot figure out how to add photos so email me and I’ll send some!
  4. 1 point
    Not live Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  5. 1 point
    Bump for the noobs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. 1 point
    . Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  7. 1 point
    . Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  8. 1 point
    Cuz hes got 3 chinz, and his future ex wife is already tired of laying under jaba the hut
  9. 1 point
    Your domes will determine the compression, but you need to have the right fuel for the compression. If you're running high compression domes, running the wrong fuel will damage the motor and obviously cause loss of power. He is right that fuel does not determine power, but running better fuel will make you able to run higher compression domes.
  10. 1 point
    He will....hes asking about what part of the goat~
  11. 1 point
    Thought for sure u were gunna post a goat pic!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 1 point
    More compression mean more power. Fuel have nothing to do with it. You chose fuel to match compression. Envoyé de mon SM-N975W en utilisant Tapatalk
  13. 1 point
    Race gas definitely means more power, but it is expensive to run. When I go out to the dunes, I run through roughly 10gallons a day, which comes out to $150 daily to run 110. If you don't ride much, or your wallet is fat, then go for it. You should be fine with the cylinders you have, if you want more power send them out to one of the sponsors of BHQ for a dune/trail port. You said you ordered new pistons, you should read the number on the top of the old pistons to see what size they were, that should have told you the bore size. If they were the 795s for a 4mil and it truly was standard bore, they should have read as 795M06400. The last 4 denote the bore size, 64.00mm is standard. If you are putting in new pistons, I'd recommend just getting a bore done when you send the cylinders out for porting. This way you can get the pistons matched for your setup. Go to like a 64.50. When I bought my trail bike it was already at 65.5. this means it had a bore done several times, which was expected from a 30+chest old bike. You should make sure of your bore size by checking the old pistons out, as people do this usually when they purchase the bike and most banshees are now old enough to buy alcohol.
  14. 1 point
    A 392 is a stock stroke with 68mm bore, to get the most out of it you would want to go for a 4mil and make it a 421. Going that far with the bike can be more expensive, so my recommendation would be to start with the basics. Get an adjustable timing plate, some aftermarket pipes, chariot reeds, and some 34mm carbs. These mods alone will add a ton of power and throttle response to your bike. You will need all of these things if you decide to go to a 392 or 421, so might as well start there. You can also get a lot more power out of your bike by getting port work on your cylinders. If you have these things and later on want even more, go for the full 421 setup. I say to do crank/cylinders at the same time because it's not that much more of a stretch to pull the crank once motor is out and cylinders are off. If you start with just the 68mm bore and later decide to do the 4mil as well, then you will need to change from 513 pistons to 795, get cut domes instead of standard, and also need to either change your head or get a spacer plate.
  15. 1 point
    Driveline Performance2978 Allen rdOrtonville,MI 48462Business hours are Monday-Friday 10:00am to 5:00pm248-793-3535
  16. 1 point
    You said it is a 4mil, which having a spacer plate makes sense. If it has stock cylinders that is fine, but if it has stock pistons then that is your problem. The stock replacement pistons are 513s. If it is a 4mil, then you need to be running 795s. Running the wrong piston is probably why one of them failed. Next, you say you are running 20cc domes, that means this bike is setup to run on either 105 or 110 octane gas. If you are trying to run pump gas, then that is a problem as well. You need to run 23cc/24cc domes if you want to run 93/91 octane out of a pump. If you are going to change domes, get some cut domes so you dont need the spacer plate. To answer your questions: 1: It could be what I mentioned above, wrong pistons or wrong domes for the fuel you are using. You didnt mention your fuel ratio, you did say you just bought it so you should know that you need to be running 2stroke mix in your gas. Personally I use Amsoil Dominator at a 40:1 ration, and thats what I would recommend as well. It could also be your jetting as I will talk about on 3rd question. 2: with your pipes I would run +3/+4 for timing. 3: Jetting varries motor to motor. You said big carbs but didnt mention their exact size or brand. I have a similiar trinity 4mil that is a 397 with its 66mm bore. It runs Mikuni 34s with main jet at 280 for 1800 elevation. I would start there as your build isnt to far off from what I have. Put in fresh spark plugs, ride it hard for a bit with WOT(wide open throttle), then pull the plugs. If they are black/wet then you need to go down a size and start over with fresh plugs. If they are white/ light brown then go up a size and try again. Ideally, you want them to be a chocolate brown. I will check back for any questions you might have or help you need.
  17. 1 point
    For peak horsepower and a low risk of detonation, you want compression 165-180psi. What domes you use will depend on your fuel type. With 19cc domes you should be running 115\methanol. if you want to run 110 then drop to 20\21cc. If running 105 go to 21/22cc, and if you want to run pump gas 23/24cc. I had a bike with mikuni 34's. At my elevation of 1800ft I ran 280 main jets, you should be somewhere close to that. Check your jets, put in fresh plugs and ride WOT for a bit. Pull plugs and if they are black/wet then drop a size. If they are white or a light light brown, go up a size. Check your fuel air screws, make sure they are clean and maybe start with them turned out 2+1/2 turns. Make sure to figure these things out, riding with that high of compression is dangerous and you are lucky you only have loose plugs.
  18. 1 point
    That's amazing. Back up, repeat.
  19. 1 point
    Not to do a pissing contest, Did anybody see that here jugs racing on YouTube said he Feels he can get more power out of stock ported cylinders than the 421 driveline cylinder kit.He said there not much he feels he can take away from the cylinders But he’s gonna do his magic .soon he’s gonna post a video about it can’t wait to see it.honestly that video is gonna make up my mind for sure on what direction I go. I was really into ordering the driveline kit,until I saw the video and then I thought about just boring and sending my stock cylinder to get ported from cam at redline.
  20. 1 point
    What your wanting and what your buddy is telling you are two different things. Your ordering a LP 421, NOT a hp 421. So your already not getting a drag engine. Therefore your 34mm carbs are actually a perfect choice and I would not consider changing them. if you want to build a drag bike, you need to switch your cylinders and then you can consider bigger carbs, although still not needed. 19cc dimes and vp110 is costly and unless this is a real drag bike (cut, stretched, and lengthened) you absolutely don’t need it. if your building a general purpose fast dune bike, your current choice is perfect.
  21. 1 point
    Fukn , Mark Twain over here.
  22. 1 point
    Ok,I'll play devil's advocate...I have seen cheap 50cc scooters last forever, it's tru crap will rattle off and it's a crapshot on what cause it really depends on the assembler I believe. I say buy it, break it down and rebuild it w/ locktite and a torque wrench. Maybe gusset the frame if it's questionable...
  23. 1 point
    Next, install the shift drum keeper. Install the neutral switch cover on the opposite side of the shift drum. I took this pic for reference, but waited to install this part until after I had the cases together since I am using a chain guard that bolts through the neutral switch cover. Install the alignment dowel for the shift star. Install the shift star onto the end of the drum. Install and tighten the bolt down that holds the shift star in place.
  24. 1 point
    Thanks for the responses guys, all are very helpful. Im not sure which direction I am going to take this, but I will be ordering this week. I had another question about offset, do you guys run a different offset to get the tires out a little wider and make the bike more stable? Or is this overkill in trails where this can pose problems with fitting between trees and such. Thanks Rocco
  25. 0 points
    I am slowly cleaning things out of the garage in preparation for a move. The more I look around, the more banshee shit I find. So, I’m going to do BHQ a solid. All parts I post will be new, or in very good shape. All will be shipped at my expense. Most left is stuff that I carried in the trailer as spares. Cables, clutches, carbs, jets, sprockets, etc. I did a pretty good purge a few years back, but I saved a pretty decent mess of shit. So, I will trade..... A pic of your girls tits, for each item. First on the trade list. BRAND NEW
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