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in my opinion, these are china rubbish carbs and way overpriced. i just discovered "banshee" carbs that look very similar, on amazon (with lots of bad reviews) and ebay, for around 50 bucks. the factory Banshee's actually all come with the TORS instead of regular caps, so this cannot be OEM carbs. those tags with part numbers on it, might be genuine, but this doesn't mean anything. @JerzOutlaw350 when you have no clue, you better say nothing 😉

Great pipes. They fall right in between the CPI and Shearer RPM

Okay I searched and seen that it’s sunco 112 leaded also what else did you have on yours and should I have anything else added for a better reliability I ordered a owners manual to try and help me learn but still hasn’t arrived yet

What does c12 mean?

I ordered a tester and will get back once it arrives

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I had nearly this same build for years. I always ran c12

Yes, according to the parts # on the boxes they are Genuine OEM Yamaha Banshee Carburetors. The price for the pair is pretty cheap. When I had a problem with one of my OEM carburetor the local Yamaha dealership wanted roughly $305.00 per carburetor and for that price I went and bought a pair of genuine Keihin 28mm Pwk’s and saved myself about $150-$200 over the OEM carburetors. I mean if you’re building a completely stock Banshee then get the OEM carburetors. But on other hand just buy a pair of keihin carburetors because they are easier to tune for jetting and you get better throttle response with them.

Are these oem carbs? It’s a pricey purchase so before I buy them just want to make sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks decent to me….id run it. Looks to be a relatively safe jetting

Uccr test and report back. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

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I just bought my first banshee it’s a 92 it has 17 cc domes 65mm wiseco pistons wiseco clutch basket, Hinson presser plate with heavy duty springs with tusk heavy duty clutch kit, has +4 timing, mikuni flat slide 35mm carbs K&T bored out to 35.5mm. What gas should I run in it? I’ve heard 110 and 91 mix and I’ve heard to run just aviation fuel thanks in advance 🙏

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nice post

Hello everyone I looking for some stock OEM carbs.This is my first post on the forums. I will like to Thank everyone for making it easier to source banshee parts. I have one keihin 28mm. I’m trying to source another 29SBO so I can make a pair. Also looking for another set of stock banshee carbs 2x! Either Mikuni or Keihin please no Chinese knockoff carbs

Good!!! I had a DL 421, it was a great engine. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Does anyone have any Yamaha banshee cpi in frame pipes for sale or stingers and mufflers for a set?

After talking to driveline, I bought 23cc domes and it made such a huge difference! The cranking psi is now 140(cold). I know I should check it again warm just to make sure it’s not too high but I’m sure it’s pretty safe yet. I didn’t confirm the squish clearance yet either. .051-.055 is the green zone correct? Anyway I thought I’d say it’s running fantastic. I had no idea it would be such a drastic change. The cpi pipes that I have on there (I hate to admit it) kind of sucked for playing around and trail riding but now it seems to have way more mid torque. They almost feel like my old t5’s did but in addition to a lot more top end as well. I haven’t touched the jets yet but we’ll see. The thing rips!

I wouldn't waste money on the Flex bars. That's a ridiculous expense. I have this Alba +2 stem. It's nice. https://www.ebay.com/itm/184955487409?fits=Make%3AYamaha&itmmeta=01HVVK777EVB43A4DXQXZDJVYD&hash=item2b1034c4b1:g:jdcAAOSwcaFZH0ca&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0Bd9Cskx2%2Fa2%2FfQcfzQMhMWXIUGeBAwqgTER862IQb%2F0AWp9kmfdnCFKiGwTBAIbvHWh92FxjQK8QNjFYOwoiTnPNmldxPXRBWAJZdRS5b4oNNgR68DYEpyLV%2FGkc9SfaDdYvvkjBtL41rt4QXRp7EHgUmG%2BH9Zx3AUsZHG6ylZOp4tXSbBjiUNRUfVRtQjUe3N77QtA9EGlMTHHyXcGPuSbe4zQ1qtn5ab%2B5ffF40KoYhAekZ6mg%2Fc%2B6ANHX1zcszF9CkLgBGbnpgLHZ4GDX1M%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-jznPPeYw A-arms typically come with the correct tie rods. What "clutch setup?" I'd buy a new cable. Again, a fraction of the cost of Magura. Go with Driveline sprockets and chain.

Step 1 : remove dumb carb. Step 2: get real carb(s) Step 3: come back and thank me after you gain 23hp.

2000 Yamaha Banshee Trinity stage 4 pipes and silencers Smart Carb 2 36mm Shee idles fine but does not braap or get going. When accelerating it bogs and shuts off. Left side pipe is colder than right side. Both are running the same level of richness. Only other fine tuning on this carb setup is the idle screw screws. No pilot or mains and they adjust. Would appreciate the feedback or tips. Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

There is a combo package of LSR +1 or +2, anti vibe clamp and Flexx bars on eBay. $670 I believe I need +2 inch LSR tie rods for the +2 +1 DC+Pro A-arms $90 Clutch setup is 24 years old so I added new Magura setup $240 Sticking with stock 14/41 sprockets and Regina chain $170 Streamline front/rear rotors $220 Keizer 10x7 front 9x9 rear rims $1100 Lonestar axle/hubs package $1460 XRF nerf bars seem to be the best currently available $320 Tires probably around $400 So total around $10k. Am I missing anything big? Advice welcome. Once again, doing this because I bent rims/front suspension. Having a hard time removing upper a-arm bolt (need hammer) but right side slid right out. Still considering Lonestar Swingarm but apparently stock length is pretty good.

I got a +2 with my Clark tank. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Thanks Claude, thank you for responding. Why do people want +1 or +2 steering stem? Is it for comfort? I am looking at those close IMS/Clarke fuel tanks and apparently clearance is a problem.