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Step 1 : remove dumb carb. Step 2: get real carb(s) Step 3: come back and thank me after you gain 23hp.

2000 Yamaha Banshee Trinity stage 4 pipes and silencers Smart Carb 2 36mm Shee idles fine but does not braap or get going. When accelerating it bogs and shuts off. Left side pipe is colder than right side. Both are running the same level of richness. Only other fine tuning on this carb setup is the idle screw screws. No pilot or mains and they adjust. Would appreciate the feedback or tips. Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

There is a combo package of LSR +1 or +2, anti vibe clamp and Flexx bars on eBay. $670 I believe I need +2 inch LSR tie rods for the +2 +1 DC+Pro A-arms $90 Clutch setup is 24 years old so I added new Magura setup $240 Sticking with stock 14/41 sprockets and Regina chain $170 Streamline front/rear rotors $220 Keizer 10x7 front 9x9 rear rims $1100 Lonestar axle/hubs package $1460 XRF nerf bars seem to be the best currently available $320 Tires probably around $400 So total around $10k. Am I missing anything big? Advice welcome. Once again, doing this because I bent rims/front suspension. Having a hard time removing upper a-arm bolt (need hammer) but right side slid right out. Still considering Lonestar Swingarm but apparently stock length is pretty good.

I got a +2 with my Clark tank. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Thanks Claude, thank you for responding. Why do people want +1 or +2 steering stem? Is it for comfort? I am looking at those close IMS/Clarke fuel tanks and apparently clearance is a problem.

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What’s the thought on this plug chop color. WOT 6th

Welcome to the BHQ. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Fixing up a 2000 Banshee that I crashed fleeing the Mexican police. The bike hit a curb and I flew over the handlebars and ran. She got four flat tires, bent rims and I can see the tire rod ends bent at the threads. It's multi purpose as in street ride to downtown Cabo as well as a small motocross track with jumps on weekends. The shopping list: Lonestar front/rear hubs, axle, sprocket hub, billet locknut, brake hub (package), DC Pro +1 +1 long travel A-arms Elka stage 4 front/rear All Balls tie rods 450 calipers up front, OEM spindles? Hiper Tech 3 or OMF? Do I need the red Elka dual linkage for rear shock? Can I do Hiper dual beadlock rims for quick rear tire swap? Dominators for the MX track and Kenda Speedracer for the other six days of the week. Need to pick one front tire and was thinking Kenda Kutter or Havoc for on/off road. If there is something else that is mandatory, please let me know....such as clutch/brake levers, switches, etc. I'm pretty new to this Banshee and probably only ridden it for two hours total. I'm going to wait on the motor. I see it has the stock airbox and everything right now and typically you need do the "whole package" in one swoop. So please, I'm down to fix/replace anything else except motor, $1k aftermarket swingarm or strip down to the frame at this time. Will start scrolling through past general discussion topics. now since I just signed up for BansheeHQ today.

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Hello everyone, i was wondering about Vitos Fat Bastard pipes, how do they compare to shearers or CPI. Also if someone has them please send some pics and what is you opinion overall on the pipes.

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thanks

You can just ditch the tank completely. As long as the radiator is staying full, you're good. Just run the hose that goes to the tank straight to the ground.

What’s up fella’s!! So I have been riding my Banshee for the past 2 days here with my friends and the outside temps have been in the 60’s with no humidity. I noticed that the coolant reservoir tank keeps running dry but the radiator level is perfectly fine. I don’t think it’s getting hot enough to overheating either. When I let it cool down and remove the radiator cap it makes a slight pop sound from releasing the pressure. I spent last night checking the complete coolant system for any type of leaks and didn’t find any hose clamps loose or out of place. I even removed the reservoir tank and blocked off where the hoses connect to the reservoir and filled up my kitchen sink with water to see if the reservoir tank has a leak and that was good. I then refilled the reservoir tank with 50/50 mixed coolant and then warmed it up and then let it sit and run idle for about 20 minutes and I even revved it up a little bit and nothing was leaking then I looked to see if there were any bubbles backing up in the reservoir tank and I didn’t see any bubbles. Then I checked to see if the coolant was leaking into the transmission and mixing with the transmission oil and that was perfectly fine. I pulled both spark plugs and they both are fine and are a light tan / coco color. I’m sitting here scratching my head trying to figure out what the heck is causing this issue. Here’s my question. Is this a common problem with Banshees or is there something else wrong? Thanks, Jake

Loco’s right. They aren’t “ready” right out of the box. And many people get scared to jet the carbs…they’re actually really easy once you learn how to do a plug chop. And to be honest, you can usually get away with a 20 degree window of temperature before needing to rejet. And even then, if you know your machine and have a slight bit of common sense….you can easily get farther out of that window and still ride safely.

Hello, im thinking about welding a banshee frame from scratch?? would like to know if somebody have the specifications of each tube and angle. thanks for your time

That’s bullshit. They are not “good out of the box.” First trip on mine out of the box and the fucking float fell out of one carb and then I pulled one of the fuel inlets out. Total junk. PWK is a superior carb.

Just don’t feel like dealing with the jetting. Heard lectrons was ready out the box. I’m not really good at jetting. Plus don’t want to pay someone too do it. Also heard 421cub gets tricky with jetting t5 pipes

Lectrons are junk. I'd go with Keihin PWK.

With 110, you can go higher than 13:1. Start with timing at 4, .048" is ok. I'm not familiar with the alcool setup, maybe another member can guide you with that. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Why do you want lectrons?

Oh ok, no I did not. I also didn’t fill it to the top just went to the first thread of the hole. Thank you for that information. I will redo everything before I put motor in frame. Last question if you have a second. Again bear with me as it has been many many years since I have done anything with a motor. I’m going to run 110 to start with so as far as timing goes is 6-7 ok to start with or would I be better to back it down, when I do switch it methanol should I bump the compression ratio up? Current squish is .48 I have a set of 18cc that i originally spoke about but squish was like .31 to .33. And I feel that is so small. Am I incorrect or would a guy be ok