Mullet Man Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 (edited) updated 11-09-06 arms are now installed. project is about 98% complete!!! now have comparison between stock and YFZ arms. bottom of this post rode it for the 1st time today. pleased to say that it rode very nice. it tracked true and straight. and had no issues on the 5-10m test ride. and it was a full throttle thru 6 gear ride!! i'm very happy with this upgrade so far!! disclaimer: use common sense and safety when working with power tools. i hold no fault from anyone that try's to do the following upgrade and destroys a part that they payed money for with that said, this is an extremely easy install to perform! HOW TO INTSALL YFZ450 A-ARMS ON A YAMAHA BANSHEE (WITH NO FRAME MODIFICATIONS NEEDED!!) tools needed... angle grinder with metal cutoff wheel (or something to cut metal with) assorted tools (wrenches, socket set, ratchets) tape measure some way too support your banshee so the front wheels are off the ground this is a work in progress, but i'm going to document everything along the way so my fellow HQ members will be able to do the same upgrade without any real hassle of trial and error heres my initial work... http://i13.tinypic.com/2wc1lsl.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/33e0rbk.jpg http://i13.tinypic.com/2d14bkk.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/2uojo82.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/2nh1fr7.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/2dgw11y.jpg http://i13.tinypic.com/2ymawyp.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/2vl7k9e.jpg just putting the upper a-arms in place. you can see nowork needs done on the uppers. you can also see what needs to be cutoff for the lower a-arms too fit. i got tired of trying to find a machine shop to cut my arms for me. plus one place wanted to charge me $50 for 4 simple cuts that would take 5min. this made me want to do it myself. i will find the spacers needed at a later date. you can see where they will go in the pictures. A. remove front bumper. this makes it easier to remove and install all of the a-arm nuts+bolts 1. undo the jamb nuts on your stock tie rods. then using a 12mm wrench, turn the tie rod at the flat spot until it is loose. now remove it. you can leave the stock tie rod ends on the spindle and on the steering stem, no need too remove them 2. remove your stock shock. 2 bolts, one on the frame and one on the lower a-arm (either sell it or save it just in case) 3. remove the front brake caliper. you can leave the brake line attatched to the caliper for this. once you remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper on the spindle, slide it thru the upper a-arm and put it off to the side some where. preferably resting on something so you arent letting it hang by the brake line. (if you still have the stock brake disc guard on the spindle, you will need too bend this slighlty to pull the caliper out. no big deal, just bend it back when reinstalling) like this... http://i14.tinypic.com/471xs2p.jpg 4. onto the ball joints, remove the cotter pins holding the castle nuts in place. now remove the castle nuts and pop the spindles loose from the a-arms. (try not to damage the ball joint studs. either try to sell or save them for later). preferably use a pickle fork but a hammer can work, so can an open end wrench jambed in their to pry on might be easiest to turn the spindle to where it cant turn anymore and hold it there while unbolting the ball joint. this will put pressure on it, so it doesnt sit there and spin in place. this can cause you too curse loudly and become frustrated! 5. install the new YFZ450 upper a-arm. there is no modification needed to install the uppers. they bolt right in using stock banshee nut and bolt. NOTE; if your YFZ arms did not come with dust cover end caps, you can use the ones off your stock arms! 6. take the brake caliper that is still attached to the brake line and route it thru the newly installed a-arm. then put the caliper back to where it was setting so it is again out of the way. this will allow full travel of the brake line without binding, stretching or anything bad. you can attach it however you want. i will just use 1/2" zipties around the stock mounting locations on the lines. this is how you want the brake line routed when all is said and done... http://i14.tinypic.com/3483576.jpg 7. install the YFZ450 shock. you can find info on what material needs removed from the upper shock mount for the shock to fit by clicking this link here ( http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=47969 ) . in that thread, disreguard the part about material needing removed from the lower a-arm mount. obviously you wont need to do that if you install YFZ450 a-arms 8. pop out the black bushing. you only need to pop out the bushing on the side you will be cutting (the 4 outside bushings, 2 on each lower a-arm). trim the bushing down roughly a 1/4" (this doesnt have to be exact, just make sure it doesnt cover the hole for the grease zerk fitting when you reinstall it). then take some sand paper and taper the edge you just cut, this will make it easier to get the bushing back in the mount pic of trimmed down black bushing, compared to one that isnt trimmed.. http://i13.tinypic.com/2h4lwr5.jpg 9. the lower a-arm mounts (on the a-arm, do not touch the frame mounts) need to be trimmed down to 1 7/8" from outside edge of one bushing to outside edge of the other bushing. NO trimming needs to be done at all on the inside of the bushing mount. ONLY cut on the outside of the bushing mount!! its easiest here, to trim off some material. install the bushing back in the mount, measure where you are at on length and if it needs more trimming, remove the bushing and trim some. "rinse and repeat" until you have the mount with the bushings installed at a width of 1 7/8" DO NOT cut the steel sleeve that slide into the black bushing. you dont need too cut that at all. you can just reuse it as is! notice how i DID NOT cut into the stock welds. you dont want to cut into those, doing so could cause problems!! pics... rear mount drivers side http://i14.tinypic.com/437zwh2.jpg front mount drivers side http://i14.tinypic.com/29xi07q.jpg (you can do step 11 before 10 if you want, it will still work out fine, might be easier...) 10. reinstall the spindles on to the a-arms. screw on the castle nuts nice and snug so it seats the ball joint tight into the spindle (use the trick from #4 here). turn the castle nut until you find the hole to stick the cotter pin back thru. bend the cotter pin up and over the stud so it cant slide out. 11. you have the spindle mounted to the arms, its time to do the YFZ tie rods. remember, they are threaded different at both ends so dont try to force it on if it doesnt go. just flip it over and it should go. i dont think you could use stock banshee tie rods, they are about 2" shorter then the YFZ tie rod. i dont think the difference could be adjusted out. banshe tie rod is gold, YFZ450 tie rod is black (installed in the picture) pic... http://i14.tinypic.com/4dg57gy.jpg here are a few front shots of what it looks like...check out how the tie rod and upper a-arm are almost in perfect alignment. they will be even closer to parallel once i tighten down the upper ball joint. http://i14.tinypic.com/484nfkp.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/357othh.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/3yd4qco.jpg 12. reinstall the front wheels and tires 13. align the front wheels by adjusting the tie rods in or out, lock the jamb nuts down when you have where you want it 14. adjust the shock collars (if you want) for a higher ride it, or adjust for a lower ride height. be sure to lock them down when adjusted this can be done with a large flat head screwdriver and hammer. or buy purchasing the correct sized spanner wrench here are some ride height pics. it sits lower then stock. (little over 1 inch clearance on the 1 gallon paint can measurement) i still have some adjusting to do with that tho.... http://i14.tinypic.com/2mw9dp2.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/2hd8ykk.jpg with help from a member on here who measured his stock bike, and i measured the new YFZ a-arms on mine, this is what we came up with. it might not be dead on accurate. but it should be close and definately answers your questions about wheel placement..... this is how i did the measurements http://i14.tinypic.com/2wqcpqt.jpg notice how its hooked into the peg (outside edge of the very outside tooth) and i have the hub kicked all the way to the right. i get 25 1/4" then this one, hub still kicked all the way to the right i went from inside of the left brake bleeder (caliper metal of the bleeder, not the actual bleeder) to same on the right side i got 35 1/4" http://i14.tinypic.com/4ccrfqt.jpg ok didit just like you first measurment 24 inch's second 31 1/4 if its anywhere close, it puts it atleast 1" forward and atleast 2" wider on each side. so ~+2/+1 with YFZ arms!! kickass heres the link... dollar amount so far.... YFZ450 front shocks, $250 shipped off of EBAY YFZ450 a-arms and tierods, $100 shipped from www.yfzcentral.com sold my stock shocks on BHQ for $50 grand total parts cost so far $350. it will be cheaper once i sell my stock a-arms and tierods you might even be able to do this cheaper then me. just depends on how much you pay for your parts! and how much you sell the stock stuff for! Edited November 11, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted November 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 (edited) these are some questions i was asked. i will answer them to the best of my knowledge from what i have come across so far. as well as 1 or 2 judgement answers Q: those upper a-arms look like they are bolted in perfectly? A: yes, the upper a-arms bolted in perfectly without any modification as of yet. still i havent gotten far enuf along in this too know whether or not they will need any. but from what i see so far, if there will be any modification needed it appears to be very minimal. Q: the lowers are off by just a fraction of an inch. now couldn't you just cut the welds and move the mounts? A: yes, you could probably do that. but i do not know how too weld very good. and i surely dont truct my welding on a suspension that i will be jumping on! now, it looks like from as far as i have gotten that i should be able to do this without any welding what so ever. it appears that i will be able cut off the excess on the lower arm (outside edge of the mount) and be just fine with where the arm will be positioned....based off where i am at so far. Q:wouldn't that be easier to do than cutting the arms? A: that depends on how good of a welder you are. i think the majority of users that will tackle this project will be joes like myself without much welding background. plus it doesnt take much to take an angle grinder to cut off what needs removed. i am not sure exactly how i am going to cut the mounts down yet tho. might go somewhere after i mark what needs to be cut, or i might just hit it with an angle grinder Q:also from the pics it looks like the arms angle back, what if you put the arms on the other side wouldn't that move your front wheels forward, would that even work? A: i tried that but when they are flipped, the front of the upper a-arm, which when flipped left to right, making it the rear, will be aligned right down the center of the lower a-arm. making it impossible to install the shock. hope that helps some! i will have more info as time allows me too work on this Steve Edited November 6, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hollister_Hitman Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 Where will the tires be compared to the stock basnhee. Forward, backwards or same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 cut off the lower bushings, and weld in bungs. you know those muffler shops that say, "We weld kids toys free!" there you go. thread some heims into those bungs and there you go, fully adjustable, no cutting of the frame, and cheaper and easier to replace than delrin. plus if you have access to a lathe, you can make the bungs for less than 15 bucks, including a tap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted November 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 (edited) Where will the tires be compared to the stock basnhee. Forward, backwards or same? i'm not quite sure yet, i still have to cut the mounts. but, it appears that they will atleast be in the stock location. i will post up once i have the arms cut and mounted. cut off the lower bushings, and weld in bungs. you know those muffler shops that say, "We weld kids toys free!" there you go. thread some heims into those bungs and there you go, fully adjustable, no cutting of the frame, and cheaper and easier to replace than delrin. plus if you have access to a lathe, you can make the bungs for less than 15 bucks, including a tap. that was my original plan. too have inserts welded into the arms after cutting off the bushing mounts. then installing half inch heims. problem i run into with this is the welding and having to take them someplace for the work to be done. it would be a very easy way to do it for someone with welding experience tho! the way i am trying to do it now is the most "economical" for me at this point. at the advice of a member on here, i'm going to take the arms to a metal supplier. have them cut the arms for me with a band saw and i should be able to re use the pieces they cut off as the spacers that i will need! Edited November 6, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 have them cut the arms for me with a band saw and i should be able to re use the pieces they cut off as the spacers that i will need! dont forget to take into account the 1/16th of an inch or so of material that will be removed by the blade. I wish I had a lathe, id turn you some. that would take about 2 seconds. maybe talk to booman or that bigred guy, he seems to love to give stuff away? :shrug: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted November 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 (edited) dont forget to take into account the 1/16th of an inch or so of material that will be removed by the blade. I wish I had a lathe, id turn you some. that would take about 2 seconds. maybe talk to booman or that bigred guy, he seems to love to give stuff away? :shrug: i have thought about that. and i'm hoping, that i can stick washers inside the dust caps. this way it will be hidden. they are just deep enuf that one slim washer should fit. then, i would only need to trim the bushings slightly so they will fit. Edited November 7, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted November 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 (edited) i cant completely finish my install until Thurs. one of the ball joints on the lower arm was fucked up so i have to wait until it comes in at the dealership. then i can finish and give a ride review but, this turned out to be extremely EASY! i got tired of trying to find a machine shop to cut my arms for me. plus one place wanted to charge me $50 for 4 simple cuts that would take 5min. this made me want to do it myself. i will find the spacers needed at a later date. you can see where they will go in the pictures. after unbolting the front suspension, the only thing you need too remove from the front brake/spindle assembly, is the brake caliper. you can leave the brake line attatched to the caliper for this. once you remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper on the spindle, slide it thru the upper a-arm and put it off to the side some where. preferably resting on something so you arent letting it hang by the brake line. next, pop out the black bushing, you only need to pop out the bushing on the side you will be cutting (the 4 outside bushings, 2 on each lower a-arm). trim the bushing down a 1/4". this is to make sure you dont cover up the hole for the greese zerk. then take some sand paper and taper the edge you just cut, this will make it easier to get the bushing back in the mount pic of trimmed down black bushing, compared to one that isnt trimmed.. http://i13.tinypic.com/2h4lwr5.jpg the a-arm mounts need to be trimmed down to 1 7/8" from outside edge of one bushing to outside edge of the other bushing. NO trimming needs to be done at all on the inside of the bushing mount. its easiest here, to trim off some material. install the bushing back in the mount, measure where you are at on length and if it needs more trimming, remove the bushing and trim some. "rinse and repeat" until you have the mount with the bushings installed at a width of 1 7/8" DO NOT cut the steel sleeve that slide into the black bushing. you dont need too cut that at all. you can just reuse it as is! pics... rear mount drivers side http://i14.tinypic.com/437zwh2.jpg front mount drivers side http://i14.tinypic.com/29xi07q.jpg a few front shots of what it looks like...check out how the tie rod and upper a-arm are almost in perfect aligment. they will be even closer to paralell once i tighten down the upper ball joint. http://i14.tinypic.com/484nfkp.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/357othh.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/3yd4qco.jpg Edited November 8, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin 2 stroke Posted November 8, 2006 Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 looks great good job seems like something an avergae backyard machanic can do...just curious what are the benifits to usinf 450 a arms i definally go to keep track of this thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hollister_Hitman Posted November 8, 2006 Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 yeah did you get a measurement compared to stock yet? Are the tires going to be pushed forward?, Bacwards?, or the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted November 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 (edited) yeah did you get a measurement compared to stock yet? Are the tires going to be pushed forward?, Bacwards?, or the same? sorry, i never measured stock. i should have known too do that!!if someone wants too add to the thread, that has a stock bike, take some measurements for us and tell how and where you measured. and i will do the same on mine. about the best i can do now. i havent mounted the wheels yet either. i do know by looking at it, that they are not farther back then stock! sorry man looks great good job seems like something an avergae backyard machanic can do...just curious what are the benifits to usinf 450 a arms i definally go to keep track of this thread thanks! the advantage is, they are about 2inches wider. more stable ride. with better shocks then what comes on the banshee. plus this is a shitload cheaper then buying aftermarket a-arms and shocks Edited November 8, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin 2 stroke Posted November 8, 2006 Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 o ok i didnt know it was making it wider but keep up the good job let us know how it turns out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted November 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 (edited) will do man. hey guys, i went thru and edited my 1st post, tell me what you think. its in "how to" style now. i will edit it again once i get the spacers installed. if i get them installed. as of right now, they are not needed Edited November 8, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin 2 stroke Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 will this setup be godd godd fot going to th track and all round riding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunyabinness Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 excellent job man. i'm glad it worked out easier than anticipated. that is a clean looking set up you did. nice write up as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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