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Help me get this quad running right!


Rawnold

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I got this 03 banshee used a month and a half ago and I've been dropping $ on it non stop since I got it.. and it's still not riding right. Frustrating to say the least.

i will tell you guys everything I've done to the quad to help figure this out. Feel free to skip to the end if you don't need to know everything.

when I first got the quad it was running. Most noticeable riding issue was the clutch. Took the quad home started giving me issues with leaking carbs and hard to start. Rebuilt the carbs adjusted floats they stopped leaking. Also got the clutch working properly after about a week. Quad shut off and backfired on me during a ride so I got a compression tester and one side was 180 and the other was in the 50s. I pulled off the head it seems I had pre deto. I rebuilt the top end with 66.50 wiseco pistons it had 65.50 before got new vf4 reeds the reeds it had were toast. The quad starts up first kick every single time. But after the break in and a full day of riding with no issues, a few days after that the quad rides boggy and unresponsive in the low end, once power band hits all the power hits as well.

I take the quad out for another ride and when the quad warms up and I ride it hard as I start to shift down my quad begins to what I believe is a "misfires" and begins to shut off (as I hit the throttle it sounds very strange almost like no power is pushing through) until I hit 3rd or 2nd gear where my bike fully shuts off. Once it turns off on its own like this it's very hard to start. But once it does start it rides even worse than it was before.

 

 

So finally I checked compression again it's still 150 on both sides just like after the rebuild. So I'm hoping my issue here is jetting. I just put 290 main jets in from the 310s o had before but the bike is still doing the same thing. No noticeable difference imo. 25 pilot jet, needle in middle groove. 

Does my jetting sound right for these mods? Vf4 reeds, CPI pipes, cool head, 66.50 pistons, very slight porting (according to the guy who worked on my cylinders).

Edited by Rawnold
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4 hours ago, IceracerX said:

25 pilot is probably lean as fun on the bottom end. Put a 30 in and try again. Slight ??? porting (huh?) CPIs with290 pilots sound lean too. 66.50 cylinders, thin to win?

Gonna try 30 and a few around there. & if it were up to me I would have stock cylinders, but it came with 6550 already and I needed to make the jump to clean up my cylinders.

will post results once I have adjusted the pilot. Also gonna post pics of my plugs. When I had the 310 jet in there (since I got the quad till just a few days ago) the plugs would look black and oily. Which I know can be more than just a rich condition. I have 290s 300s and the original 310s with me so hopefully one of those does the trick. 

 

Should i I mess with needle clip? Or worry about main and pilot first?

 

e- after about 10 mins of riding with the 290s plugs are brown and dry.. no noticeable change in performance

Edited by Rawnold
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You might have an electric issue giving you a false rich condition from not burning the fuel correctly. 290 is way lean for that set up or the guy that told you it was ported didn't know what he was looking at . With porting I would have started 340 main 30 pilots toomey needle in the middle 

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14 minutes ago, sleeper06 said:

You might have an electric issue giving you a false rich condition from not burning the fuel correctly. 290 is way lean for that set up or the guy that told you it was ported didn't know what he was looking at . With porting I would have started 340 main 30 pilots toomey needle in the middle

back when he first got this bike he had texted me pics of the port job after his top end went, the port job looked more than just a clean up. Transfers had been touched along with the intake bridge I think if I remember correctly maybe he still has the pics

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I would like to see pics of the exhaust n transfer work. Regardless there's other issues. Bone stock internals with air box n CPI like 300 ish mains. I would go through all electronics with a fine tooth comb. Also if his mechanic trimmed the domes himself could be an issue there with bandwidth and angle . Where do you live? Have you tested/checked any electrical components?

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10 hours ago, sleeper06 said:

I would like to see pics of the exhaust n transfer work. Regardless there's other issues. Bone stock internals with air box n CPI like 300 ish mains. I would go through all electronics with a fine tooth comb. Also if his mechanic trimmed the domes himself could be an issue there with bandwidth and angle . Where do you live? Have you tested/checked any electrical components?

Haven't checked anything electrical. Buddy of mine said my issue sounds like an air leak or electrical. What would I need to check on the stator side? He told me to unscrew it and make sure everything is intact and tight. Besides that any in specific?

 

also dm me your # and I'll send you pics of whatever you need to see

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Just now, Rawnold said:

Haven't checked anything electrical. Buddy of mine said my issue sounds like an air leak or electrical. What would I need to check on the stator side? He told me to unscrew it and make sure everything is intact and tight. Besides that any in specific?

 

also dm me your # and I'll send you pics of whatever you need to see

did you pressure test your motor after you rebuilt it? that's how you would rule out an air leak.

if you have an ohm meter you can test your stator and coil to make sure they are functioning within spec.

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1 hour ago, Ayesully810 said:

did you pressure test your motor after you rebuilt it? that's how you would rule out an air leak.

if you have an ohm meter you can test your stator and coil to make sure they are functioning within spec.

No I never pressure tested just did a compression test and felt around the cylinders/head. I'm gonna have to get my hands on a tester, I'll probably make one I hear it's pretty easy.

& I have an ohm reader but not an automotive one so I doubt it would work. Is this the only way to tell it's working properly?

Edited by Rawnold
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34 minutes ago, Rawnold said:

No I never pressure tested just did a compression test and felt around the cylinders/head. I'm gonna have to get my hands on a tester, I'll probably make one I hear it's pretty easy.

& I have an ohm reader but not an automotive one so I doubt it would work. Is this the only way to tell it's working properly?

https://www.amazon.com/Danco-94352-Increment-Test-Gauge/dp/B00IPUCRXK/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503100918&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=danco+pressure+tester

yeah ideally you want you motor to be able to hold 6 lbs of pressure for 6 mins with no more than 1 psi of pressure lost over that 6 min period if it does leak a little bit.  That's the gauge I used for mine. wrapped with Teflon on the threads and got a male to female slip pvc coupler then plugged the other intake with 1 inch pvc cap.  Then got plugs for the exhaust.  Cost me like 25 bucks to make.

Also the only thing you can check by taking the stator cover off is checking the pick up coil gap.  get some feel gauges they r cheap.

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