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Chassis Up Drag Build


Yamaha21

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I've followed a lot of people on here and their drag builds and I've been wanting to do one of my own for a long time. I'm finally going to get rid of my raptor and spend some money on the Shee and I've got some questions for people out there that have been building drag bikes for a lot longer than I have. I'm not going to budget enough money towards this build to build something that is going to win competitions but I'd like to be able to roll out to the hill at Dumont, Glamis, and Little Sahara,UT, where I usually ride, and have a fast bike on the hill. Once I get rid of my raptor I'm looking around the $7,500 range for a budget on this build. I really like the looks of JT's "stock frame" that's been worked over and I think that's more the direction I wanna go but less motor than he's planning on from the looks of his paddles haha.

 

-What's it going to cost (ballpark) to have an experienced person modify my frame similar to JT's for reference?

-Is a 4 mil a waste of a motor to put in a frame that I'm going to heavily modify and lighten? Will I regret not going bigger?

-Anything obvious that it sounds like I'm missing? Or any advice is much appreciated.

 

 

This was my original mock up plan I wrote up:

-Redline 4 mil on alky, drag port, all the supporting mods that go along with that that are obvious.

-Small Bore LED Drag Pipes, curious to know if anyone has ran a set of these and compared them to other OOF drag pipes on the market and their results.

-Duneable Override 2-5 by Redline

-Straight Cut Gears

-Talk to JT about weight savings he would recommend (not really interested in Ti from cost to value in the build I'm doing)

-Fireball Front End/Swing Arm (fully suspended)

-Shaws or Floats

-JJ&A Gun Drilled Drag Axle & Carrier (lightened)

-Possibly built chromoly frame, budget dependent

-More realistically, stock modded frame, weight savings where I can

-Planning on running a radiator

-Drag harness

-Direct Drive Lockup

 

That's all that I can come up with for now, any help is much appreciated.

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If you do this from the ground up you're gonna be over budget even with a 4 mil. I'll sell you a good running 421 Cub for $2000 to get ya started. I'll throw in OOF pipes (CPI BB or Sniper- your choice) and carbs (alky PWK 38mm or 39mm - your choice)for $500 more. The motor is ready to go with reeds, intakes 2-5 (non dunable) override, lockup, etc. Does not have straight cut gears. 

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$7500 Roller + Motor Build.

 

I I figure the motor build should cost me around $5000 alone by the time it's all said and done and in the frame.

 

All said and done hoping to stay around $12,000 or below

Edited by Yamaha21
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$7500 Roller + Motor Build.

 

I I figure the motor build should cost me around $5000 alone by the time it's all said and done and in the frame.

 

All said and done hoping to stay around $12,000 or below

U can do a stk frame roller for less than $7500 so the budget u have is good. The money saved I'd put into the mtr and go bigger than a 4mm
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U can do a stk frame roller for less than $7500 so the budget u have is good. The money saved I'd put into the mtr and go bigger than a 4mm

 

Alright, so lets say I can do a stock frame roller for $5000, $7500 towards the motor would probably put me in the 10 mil range but I doubt it would get me into DM territory from the little amount of math I've done on cost of a build like that right? 

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Alright, so lets say I can do a stock frame roller for $5000, $7500 towards the motor would probably put me in the 10 mil range but I doubt it would get me into DM territory from the little amount of math I've done on cost of a build like that right?

If I was planning on building a DM I wouldn't try to base it off of stock cases, it's cheap insurance to go billet and be able to have something left to work with if it blows up.

U are on the right track. Build a 7mm-10mm cub 68mm-72mm bore and Cam can go over all details and pricing. Have Clint in UT do the fab work on ur frame...he's in ur backyard. I agree on the Fireball a arms/spindles/swingarm. This seems like it can be a very cool build and if u have any questions LMK
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U are on the right track. Build a 7mm-10mm cub 68mm-72mm bore and Cam can go over all details and pricing. Have Clint in UT do the fab work on ur frame...he's in ur backyard. I agree on the Fireball a arms/spindles/swingarm. This seems like it can be a very cool build and if u have any questions LMK

 

Thanks for the info, I'll give Cam a call and get some details and pricing as well as call 4WA and see what I need to do to get started there. Before I decide on a motor I'll put together a build spreadsheet and see what's most cost effective between the 4 mil, 7 mil, and 10 mil. I'm already leaning towards the 7 mil, I think that will be exactly what I'm looking for.

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If you do this from the ground up you're gonna be over budget even with a 4 mil. I'll sell you a good running 421 Cub for $2000 to get ya started. I'll throw in OOF pipes (CPI BB or Sniper- your choice) and carbs (alky PWK 38mm or 39mm - your choice)for $500 more. The motor is ready to go with reeds, intakes 2-5 (non dunable) override, lockup, etc. Does not have straight cut gears. 

^^^ This^^^

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If I'm not mistaken a 7mm crank cost the same as a 10mm crank so in that case go 10mm

 

Yeah I haven't had a chance to fill in my spreadsheet with all of the actual dollar amounts but just looking at all of the line items it looks like to build a 7 or 10 mil you have to do essentially the same things, like it costs the same amount to trench for a 7 mil or a 10 mil. So looks like 10 mil might be best option.

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Yeah I haven't had a chance to fill in my spreadsheet with all of the actual dollar amounts but just looking at all of the line items it looks like to build a 7 or 10 mil you have to do essentially the same things, like it costs the same amount to trench for a 7 mil or a 10 mil. So looks like 10 mil might be best option.

I'll let Cam go over the details but 7-10 diff can be if u use a forged or billet crank
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