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Chariot 2:1 help...


Kleinki

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Hi guys.

 

Ive got a stock banshee with dmc pipes and proflow air filter. I do enduro racing in south africa so its all terrain. I would just like to know if anyone has run a keihin 38mm setup. Like always there is loads of guys saying yes it will be fine and loads saying no 35mm is biggest it can handle. Reason im going for this setup is obvious the one carb tune and smoother throttle. The setup will be Chariot 2:1, vforce4, 38mm pwk.14361d400c26b8c4d5e6e359d7c1672a.jpg

 

 

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Why not just avoid all the headache and just jet your stock carbs? Once you dial them in, you don't have to do much if anything to them at all.

 

I suggest that, because it's easy to get those dialed in. The 2/1 is quite finicky and can be a bit of a challenge. IMO, the single will require more tuning ability then the dual stockers.

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I hate to just jump in but am new to fourms and am setting my banshee up for woods. Wat a arms and shocks would u guys recommend, and how is the fmf gnarly pipe for low end. I have a 1988 banshee with the rz 350 motor it has ypvs (yamaha power valve system) trying to make a nice woods/ trail banshee. Thanks for the help and sorry for jumpin in like this

 

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Ive only been on a banshee with fmf's and dmc's and i love the dmc's.. Just ask around i think there is loads of guys that can help you and be ready for some shit comments.. Try and take note from the guys that run good stuff on they're bikes and people that just wane say what they think haha good luck..

 

 

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Doing some reeding regarding the EK needle its the leanest needle for yamaha if im not mistaken... Would the yz 250/ktm 300 jd jetting kit work at all as the needle is leaned out more through the throttle.

 

 

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This would be why I recommend you just keep the stockers. You will be asking for info on a not so common set up so info will be kinda sparse. We can probably get you close, but you'll definitely be fiddling with it. Some one posted a factory bike needle for 2/1 set ups just recently, so maybe track that down. With the stock carbs, I would bet guys here could have you dialed in within one afternoon of tuning. The 2/1 isn't gonna turn that thing in to a stump pulling machine that you're hoping.

 

Can I ask why you feel the 2/1 is the golden ticket and what you hope to get out of it?

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I can tune the dual carbs and have done before. Im not doing the change just because its one carb. Ive read good things about the 2:1 one and there is tons of banshees and snowmobiles that run single carbs. The change is not gone be a 10-20hp difference. The reason why im changing is it will be much easier for me with the racing i do. Im not after extra hp or anything like that. If i can get a easier way to make things easier for me i will go for it. I just thought that i might get some good replies about what carb, needle and jetting worked for guys but guess no one can just give me a straight answer.

 

 

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It's just not something that is common. So getting a straight answer will be near impossible. That's why I say it's more of a hassle. The theory is that come race day, a simple single carb would be easier to change. But with a non existent base of knowledge you'll be hard up to know where to start. Which turns in to lots of fiddling and tweaking that the single carb was supposed to avoid all along. You can try and compare your set up to what's out there, but if you change one aspect, it will be all unknown again.

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Awhile ago one guy (snop) did a bunch of test between a single carb vs dual carbs. He was a huge single carb fan until he actually did a bunch of dyno testing with the two setups. After the testing he said that dual carbs maybe better power every where through the dyno curve.

 

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