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THE358BANSH

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Nice coil bracket. Welding it in place? Coils fire at same time or alternately? Very interesting thread. How is the cost-time to benifit rotio going?

 

Thanks, it will be burned in permanent once I break the quad down for final assembly. The coils can be run sequentially or as a wasted spark setup, just depends on how the configuration is setup in the ecu. As for my time spent, I always have a winter project scheduled to do before I get back to working on the race car. It's just something different to do and break up the monotony of cars, cars and then more cars...

 

 

someone did it on their rz350. might help you with some insight if you run into any problems

http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1899&highlight=efi

 

That's Steve Murphy, the guy I mentioned earlier in one of the posts. I have checked out his site more than a few times. :cheers:

 

Also, what did you do to cases and jugs to get them that clean?

 

Hot tank washed, bead blasted, and then washed again.

 

Unfortunately, the domes and o-rings didn't make it today because of the storm. I was really hoping to have them for the weekend but it gives me chance to get the other junk done. HID conversion kit showed today so I was pretty jacked to play with those for a bit. The coil bracket got tacked in place for mockup and wiring. Got bored then for a while and built plug wires seeing as they are needed too. Next on the list was mounting the ecu. I decided to mount it up behind the radiator on a small plate welded to the chassis. The radiator got moved forward in the process also. The convoluted tubing that's on the harness sucks balls. It can't make a tight turn without kinking and it is alot bigger than it needs to be. Ended up cutting it off and replacing the first few feet with some TechFlex product. The stuff is like a chinese finger trap, kinda dangerous for a simple mind like me. The wire bundle in the picture is all 35 wires for the system, and is only about the size of a nickel. After that I just played with wire routing for a while as seen in a few of the first pictures. Later, Evan

 

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someone did it on their rz350. might help you with some insight if you run into any problems

http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1899&highlight=efi

 

Not trying to be a dick, but.............

 

Read the reply in post #25 about Steve Murphy !! ( aka "Smurph" ) from the RD / RZ forums... yes he has successfully fuel injected an RZ 350 bike with full details.

 

Evan has already mentioned it in his reply.

Edited by RZBansheeMan
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Not trying to be a dick, but.............

 

Read the reply in post #25 about Steve Murphy !! ( aka "Smurph" ) from the RD / RZ forums... yes he has successfully fuel injected an RZ 350 bike with full details.

 

Evan has already mentioned it in his reply.

 

Thanks Mike...You ever come up with a price for the RZ parts? How cool would a EFI powervalved banshee be?

 

I played around tonight and started finalizing the wiring and routing of junk. For the most part I just started at the front and moved my way back towards the battery trying to keep in mind all other wiring that may be affected by what I was working on currently. So far the serial port for the communications cable, both coils and the coolant temp sensor are permanently wired. All of the temp sensors for the MicroSquirt are negative temperature coefficient, which basically means as the temperature of the sensor increases, the resistance through the sensor drops proportionally. I needed some place to mount the GM temp sensor which has a 3/8npt inlet. The boss was over looking at the project while I was stumped and out of the blue says, "Why don't you just build an extension where that outlet bolts to?" I completely forgot the outlet was separate and felt so dumb, so I whittled out a sensor block out of some 1" thick aluminum plate.

 

While mocking up most of the wiring, the oxygen sensor needed to be located. I decided to mount the sensor in the left expansion pipe. Most multi-cylinder engines with pinned cranks will have some amount of twist to the crank while running, and as a byproduct the stator side of the engine runs the hottest. The sensor is mounted in the belly of the pipe, just at the beginning of the baffle cone around the 2 o'clock position. The wiring for the sensor runs underneath and tight to the gas tank, then down the right side framerail to the lambda cable. As mentioned earlier, the extended bung was used to keep the sensor out of the direct airstream.

 

Tomorrow will have the rest of the EFI wiring on the list. Still need to float the ground on the stator, and wire tps, map, iat, injectors, and a few other odds and ends. I also gotta take a second and thank my good friend Levi. He let me take parts off his LTR for mockup on my stuff and it made my life alot easier. His '06 has a ton of mods that we've done, and is a blast to ride. He'll probably never see this, but if he does it'll probably make his day. Thanks bud!

 

 

 

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Mocking it up and having a general theory of how it all should work is the easy part. Actually making it run is the tough part :)

 

I have an 18mm DMX that we put EFI on. Anything is possible with enough time!

 

Whos unit did you use? Got any pictures?

 

I floated the ground on the stator tonight, and changed the connectors over. It now has seven wires, two for the source coil, two for the pickup coil, two for the lighting output at 125w each, and the floated ground. After that I finalized the sub harness for the throttle bodies and sensors. It includes everything for tps, map, iat, injector 1, and injector 2. Tossed the stator in place to double check some stuff, ran a few extra wires, and then connectorized the whole deal. I still need to sheath and terminate the three large wires in the last picture, they will go to the engine and ground using one of the case bolts. Tired and hungry, I'm out...Evan

 

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Yo Evan.. I tried to PM you a few times. Get back with me.

 

Mike

 

Sorry about not seeing that, replied...

 

 

hey thats an XR4Ti sweet..

 

i had a couple of those

 

Yeah, everyone has their own idea of what performance is. Engine is fresh with a forged crank, Crower rods, JE pistons and a bunch of head work. A "little" turbo with a Accel Gen 7 KIt and she'll be ready to fly...

 

 

 

On another note, I have been super busy and not had a chance to update my progress. Expect one later tonight...

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Big update for tonight guys...I'm thinking tomorrow will be the day to see if it makes fire in the hole.

 

The new 19cc domes and o-rings came last week and I finally got a chance to install them. It's got a wee bit more compression now, I can't wait. I finished up the EFI wiring, except for the key switch I still need to buy and the HIDs. Probably going to just rig up a toggle for tomorrows test fire. There are three relays for the entire system. Relay #1 provides ignition hot for the coils, injectors, ecu, and O2 sensor and is controlled using a ground circuit from the key, relay #2 controls the fuel pump by way of ground through the ecu, and relay #3 provides power for the entire lighting system triggering off the light switch ground. All power circuits are fused, with three of them being located on the front of the battery box. The small push button and LED is used for calibration of the O2 sensor and also functions as a system error/diagnostic tool. The TrailTech regulator/rectifiers bolted up directly in place of the stock voltage regulator and cdi, kind of a nice surprise.

 

I made a huge list of stuff to get done before firing it. Today tons of it got knocked out. The throttle cable I used for mock up was a tad bit short routing it the way I wanted and just a bit frayed on the end. I found out Motion Pro has a 2" extended version of the LTR cable so I went ahead and got one. I also acquired a ASV clutch lever from iDeal, the tape is temporary because I need to get the rebuild kit for it with the rotator clamp. I tossed all that stuff on and lubed/routed cables for a bit, double checking full lock and stuff.

 

Next on the list was the crankcase pressure test. Ran to FleetFarm to get the parts and a bunch of random needed things. The exhaust plugs are 1.5" plumbing plugs and the intake needed a 1.5" pvc cap sanded down to 2.060" for the R6 intake boots. I had port matched the other intake boot last night, and built the little reed plate spacer things then assembled it before I left. I ended up having one small leak around a reed bolt. Resealed it and checked again to see everything okay.

 

After the pressure test I mounted the fuel filter on the pressure side of the fuel system. Then ran a few vents for the trans and bolted the throttle bodies in the process. The return line for the fuel pressure regulator needed to be tee'd into the vent for the pump housing, so I built a small fitting and plumbed a line for it in the process. Rebuilt the kicker, filled it with oil and coolant and then got some fuel for tomorrow.

 

 

Things to do before starting...

Calibrate 02 sensor

Communicate/recalibrate EFI sensors

Double check everything

Build ground cable for engine/chassis/battery

Compression check

Hope for the best, expect the worst

 

Things to do before riding...

Build air filter extension tubes/mounts

Mount IAT sensor in filter tube

Source and final wire key switch/tether

Install HIDs

Sync throttle bodies

Weld broken nerf bracket

Clean/paint everything

Give it the once over of the century

 

And I'm sure there is more than a few things I'm forgetting, but those above are the big ones....Evan

 

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I got a chance to play for a few hours here tonight. My list kind of got tossed by the wayside, and I just wanted to get it fired so I only did what was needed. First was establish a TDC location, so that I could build a timing pointer to double check spark advance. I made a mark on the flywheel at .050" BTDC, and .050" ATDC. Busted out the dial caliper and split the difference to find true TDC and then made a mark there. Next for the to-do list was to check squish and everything checked out fine.

 

After getting everything ready to fire I double check all of the configuration in the software. I then used a program called Tooth Analyzer to double check my crank trigger wheel design, sensor gap, and polarity. After giving ignition power a few times to cycle the fuel pump, I found a few small leaks and took care of them. I gave the entire quad the once of a century, and gave it a kick. Nothing happened. Fortunately, I had forgotten to connect my igntion jumper wire after the fuel leak! Connected that and gave it another shot and she fired up, but only on one cylinder. After going back and looking at the configuration, I noticed I missed an important drop down menu which controls the firing event for cylinder #2. Gave that a shot, rebooted the ecu and kicked again. This time we were golden and banging on both holes.<---Sounds dirty huh?

 

I wanted to get a complete warm up cycle on it before I left. Everything went well , no leaks other than the fuel ones earlier. One of these days I'll have to sandblast and paint those a-arms. They are sticking out like a sore thumb. I even took a video for all you dudes, not the greatest quality but it works... Later, Evan

 

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PAH! I sound like a canadian! EH? Edited by THE358BANSH
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