Dm554banshee777

In the perfect scenario… You should be able to dump the clutch.. have limited tire spin for maximum traction, and have just enough weight to make it slip a tiny bit between the 4-5 shift so it doesn't drop out of the peak power.. but also lock up pretty much 100% going through the traps. Some would suggest to go up a tooth on the rear to make it pick the gear shift up a little easier, but I think that is a bandaid fix. When you change your gearing to have that easier transition between shifts you also lose potentiel Mph IMO. On the other hand I don't believe letting the clutch slip really bad on the 60ft helps e.t. Losing that power through the clutch can be as bad as losing it through tire spin. I see guys at the track trying to make the clutch slip so bad the bike doesn't wanna move out of its own way. I think theres a very fine line. Thats where my idea of having more base pressure and little to no arm weight comes in.. You're still having the 2 stages of clutch being applied.. just not as aggressively. When I say a good 60ft ..most people going to the track will see low 1.5s to high 1.4s on a good set up. Now you go to a Psda race and that changes.. Im talking low 1.30s and high 1.2s out of small cubs on the dirt. Obviously 60% of the E.t comes from power to weight ratio..and 40% comes from a good tuner but I think they are doing something different than the majority of racers.

I have a question.. Im beginning to get fairly serious in the clutch tuning world and have realized that everyone seems to have a different way of doing things. In your clutch tuning thread, You recommend pulling base psi and watch as your 60ft improves, then start adding or taking away arm weight. My background is 300ft sand/dirt drags and I've talked to many about the subject.. some are more willing to share info than others.Ive been doing most of my tuning your way.. low base pressure and a decent amount of arm weight for down track lock up.. This seems to work but as bikes get lighter.. and e.t are getting faster ( example: 0-425 record is now 3.51) I see people trying new things. Something Ive noticed is the super light small motor bikes seem to be pulling very high Mph for their engine sizes, and when I listen to them go down the track, their rpm stays very high (which I assume is peak power range for them). So my question is.. Would running high Base psi and Very little to no arm weight help a smaller motor stay in peak power? To have just enough base psi to get off the line and 60ft decent.. but not enough arm weight to drag the motor down between shifts.Less arm weight would also mean less rotating weight to turn.. I would think this way could allow some slippage between shifts. The main goal Im trying to figure out is the slip between shifts. If you have any insight on this I would love to hear it. Thanks.

Mtc Multistage hub driven lock out. Includes... lock out, tuning kit, modded pressure plate and inner hub. I believe this retails for around $1200. I would like to get $450 shipped obo as it's in perfect condition. It won't allow me to upload pics so text me if interested and I'll gladly send them. 717-375-8000 This is fully tunable and you can tune each arm separately. Any questions let me know.. thanks

This topic hasn't been brought up for a little bit... but there seems to be enough information about static pressure and arm weight in this thread for beginners to get a good idea what to do. I would like to bring up how to get more life out of a clutch such as differant plate treatments. STY, you mentioned cryo treatments? Is this worth the money? Also I've had an idea of bead blasting steels on low pressure to resurface glazed steels.. I'm curious if anyone has tried this with any success.