regalrocket

<~~~~~ Grand Island NY, (Buffalo for most)

I'm having a hard time finding a black storage cover for my Banshee. Anyone have a link to a banshee specific cover or one thats known to fit good. Thanks.

Wow guys, I am glad to see that others have taken interest in this idea. It has worked so good so far. I have ridden all summer with no issues, othere than silky smooth geometry. Here are some pictures on the bike for those wondering. Because you guys asked, pictures on the quad. Some weak pictures of me in GA This one on the trailer has me next to a 2+1 machine. Just so you can see the stance remains the same, while the travel extends slightly. All told, this added like 1.25 inches to the width. I cut the stock stearing links and cut/over sleaved tubing to make them work. I have had friends with long travel wide width arms that really like these. The machine has a nice balance, and keeps a good turing radius. Fits between trees really good too. I have had a few requests for me to do this mod. Unfortunatly life has me really busy. And although I love doing fab work, I am attempting to change my career, and fab just as a hobby. If this changes, I will let you guys know. Thanks again for the kind remarks. Oh as a final addition. BUY THE AZCUSTOMQUADS JOINTS!! I machined my own weld on adapters, and reamed the spindles to fit the auto tie rod ends. Once these fail, I am going to get some used stock spindles and add these his joints. I hate having anything that is modified, when there is a part that will bolt on without it. His 5 dollar adapters saves a good few hours, and makes this a weekend project instead of a week. Do it.................... do it do it.

Soft bushing, and no seal. Dirt gets in there and it eats itself. When you take it apart, the steel nub is fine, but the bushing is so warn that it just rattles and jams. The aluminum kicker levers have a stainless bushing that wears much much less.

I used both methods of removal. I packed the area with a small rag, then popped the cage out and used a magnet to get the beedle bearings. Then I used a pilot bearing puller to take the race out. It was very easy. For anyone that is looking to do this repair, get the puller.

Thanks guys, I will try the pilot bearing puller, but will be planning on using plan B which seems like the way it will go. You guys rock.

Been chasing problems with my clutch, and found that it was the push lever needle bearings. I have the lever and the seal out. I just wanted to know the easiest way to remove that bearing? Thanks.

It would have to be an aftermarket frame because the 'Off Road use Only" reggy would prevent any ideas about registering it.

Ok, I dug into everything, and indeed the bearing for the clutch lever is shot. It ate the arm too. Not cool. I got the seal out, now what is the easiest way to remove the bearing? Thanks.

All of those breathers allow the air in the case to leave, or return. When the engine warms up, it builds pressure in the case. If you have it all blocked off, it will just force oil threw seals and stuff. Hook it up, the last guy was not thinking.

I really appreciate the help. I thought I had narrowed this down to the cable. But after replacement, its still an issue. I had the cover and clutch basket cover apart already. Guess its getting a second look. I should have done it right the first time. Thanks again.

My clutch has been acting up, and its kinda wierd. If I drive it hard, everything is great. But if I crawl slow threw ditches, the clutch lever lever will get real hard to pull. Its not the lever or cable, both have been replaced. I believe that its the clutch disengagement arm (the part the cable hooks to). It feels like its jamming on the clutch actuator rod. Sometimes it will jam up bad enough, that the clutch won't engange fully when the lever is released. So how hard is it to replace the rod and the arm? Is it a total tear down. Thanks.

Disregard. I tore it all down. Its the clutch cable. It must have broke a strand internally.

Update: After looking at the clutch arm, the arrows are not even close to being lined up. The adjustment arm is about 3/8 of an inch out of alignment towards the stator side. Did the adjuster just loosen up?

Ok so heres the issue. My quad was fine, then I let my father ride it. He pussy footed it for a while, then when I got back on it, the clutch lever seems really tight. It even has a spot where it gets worse then kinda pops free. Did he ride it and weld the ball? can you tell if the ball is welded without pulling it? What would make the clutch lever tough to pull. thanks.