projectbanshee33

http://seks.craigslist.org/sno/4055012625.html It has a boost bottle, a jet kit, and a tors removal kit. It must be fast.

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As seen on Craigslist - Clean and runs very well. List of modifications include: K & N pod filters (airbox removed) Keihen 35mm PWK carbs Boss intake with built in crossover tube (Just installed!) V-Force reeds Cylinders are bored to 370cc, ported, and exterior has been polished (two bores left on cylinders) Pro-Design cool head with 18cc domes Toomey T-5 exhaust with billet exhaust hangers Pro-Design water pump cover Stainless brake lines on the front Two sets of plastic, one set is race-cut with custom paint, the other has full fenders (currently has full rear, race-cut front) Frame and hubs have been painted to match the tank and radiator covers Lazer Star lights Pro-Design tether switch Renthal handle bars Cascade bar clamp Aftermarket rear grab bar Front tires are stock on Douglas wheels (one has a slight leak) Rear tires are newer holeshots on Douglas wheels One set of paddle tires Listed on Craigslist for $3500, HQ special - $3250!!! Would consider a LT80 (running or not) for partial trade. For questions, or to set up an appointment to see, call 620-820-4029

My buddy makes seat lowering kits for the Honda CRF250R, CRF250X, CRF450R, and CRF450X. Check the kits out at www.speedmetaldesigns.com. Give him a call and ask what he all he has done to lower his wife's CRF250R. She isn't all that tall and has no problems starting and riding it, even in the dunes.

I haven't had much luck running over them either, even with the 33" mud terrains on my Jeep. Using the High-Lift jack with the weight of the Jeep seems to work well though. Similar to the trailer jack mentioned above.

stock engine, 150mph???? Wouldn't go that fast if you dropped it out of a plane. Must be the aluminium fuel tank.

Used Oury when I was racing mountain bikes and now have them on everything that has handlebars. The thicker style grip seems to help with fatigue.

Going to be going through KC on Wednesday and was wondering where the best place to buy race gas is. Anything somewhat close to I-35 would be ideal. Place I was getting race gas closed up and left me hanging. Tried buying 100LL at the local airport but they would not pump it into a gas can unless the plane was right there on the tarmac. Apparently there is some new law in effect and it's a $10,000 fine if they pump it into anything else. I asked them how the hell I was going to get my 'plane' to the airport if I couldn't get fuel. They didn't have an answer other than they couldn't afford the fine.

Have you tried a Heli-Coil or an EZ-Lok insert? I prefer the EZ-Loks but you need to drill out a larger hole than you would for a Heli-Coil.

Got one on mine, wouldn't run without it. Here is a thread with pictures of the cap installed. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...p;hl=weird+find

I was buying race gas from Coaches Corner in Joplin, now I am going to have to find another source since they have shut the doors. Tried three airports for aviation fuel but they wouldn't pump it into anthing but an airplane. Apparently the feds are cracking down on the use of av fuel in anything other than an airplane. And VP's customer service has been anything but helpful. Any suggestions?

I've had mine for a few months now and it works pretty good. I bought mine at NAPA, but any decent parts store should be able to get one. They are made by Mr. Gasket. Here is a link to the original thread, hope it works..... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...p;hl=weird+find

I can see it now... "Yeah, I had it pinned in 6th doin' 100+... in REVERSE!"

If you are going to work on your bike, you need two things, a Clymer's manual and a thread file. You can pick one up from MSC (www.mscdirect.com) for less than 13 bucks and has files to fix 0.80mm, 1.00mm, 1.25mm, 1.50mm, 1.75mm, 2.00mm, 2.5mm, and 3.0mm pitch threads. This should fix your problem as long as the threads have not been hardened which I am guessing they are not if they are boogered. If this doesn't work, then you can always do what others have suggested, weld it on and replace at next teardown. MSC part number for a metric thread file is 05007034.

Stock cap weighs in at a meager 1.5 ouces and the thermocap tipped the scales at 2.4 ounces. Difference is less than a shot of tequila. Here are a couple of pics of the thermocap with Fullbores. One pic was taken while seated, the other while leaning slightly forward. Only complaints are that the gauge is not liquid filled and the face is rotated 90 degress off with the cap completely seated. Would be nice to clock the gauge somehow, but I haven't figured out how to do it without destroying the gauge. I will probably just leave it as is, put it on with the bottom of the gauge facing the right. Just a quick glance and if the needle is pointing anwhere to the right of straight up, I know I am in the dreaded zone of plenty.